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Maverick Audio DAC/Amp - Page 57

post #841 of 2604
For me 3 o'clock is also the level corresponding to direct.
It is why I say that it is better to use it at 12 o'clock because as others have measured it is too hot. If it is too hot, you can do some damage to your amp. That is with the old gain, not the new unit.

After all, do as you want, I just reported what people have already said in this thread.
post #842 of 2604
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacseeker View Post
For me 3 o'clock is also the level corresponding to direct.
It is why I say that it is better to use it at 12 o'clock because as others have measured it is too hot. If it is too hot, you can do some damage to your amp. That is with the old gain, not the new unit.

After all, do as you want, I just reported what people have already said in this thread.
When I run my CD player, I have to set the gain knob to about 8:00 because it is too hot after that. However, when I used my turntable, I use the direct button because the signal is very weak. My turntable has a built-in phono pre-amp, but it's a little underpowered. The direct button boosts the signal enough above the floor level to make an enjoyable listening experience. However, the signal from the turntable through direct is nowhere near being hot. It's still about 6 db below normal line level. I have to bump the volume on my amp.
post #843 of 2604
I see your point when using analog inputs.

Here is a link to benchmark wiki with interesting info to setup I hope :

Computer Audio Playback - Setup Guide - Benchmark

Benchmark makes professional converters.
post #844 of 2604
Quote:
Originally Posted by hodgjy View Post
I can confirm the tube pre-amp out is hot. Somewhere in this thread I noted just how much the pre-amp was running hot--something like 8-14 db higher compared to a normal line-level. It clips straight out as it enters my power amp. I use the signal leveler on my amp to control the signal.

Hooking the NC phones to the RCA jacks was a good idea, but I doubt I'll ever do it. I bought the D1 mainly as a tube pre-amp for my stereo, but I like the option of using cans sometimes. When I go to the cans, I'll just turn off NC or use the in-canal cans and not worry about hum at all.

What do you mean by your amps clips? Man, don't push that direct button if you have Mave connected straight to power amps. Otherwise it outputs full power straight to power amps, you don't want that. If your power amps have gain control make sure to reduce their gain to minimum before hitting that direct button.

I have tested Mave as a tubebuffer (both in direct mode and in volume controlled mode) and it does not clip my other preamp's inputs. Gain is just normal from both the tube pre out and normal pre out. When I change the RCAs from one output to another, the sound pressure level stays the same.

I have the newest verson of Mave in which the headphone amp's gain was reduced 20%. It does not hum even the slightest with AKG 141 MkIIs.

By the way, I have absolutely digged Mave's sound (listened for 1 day). It wipes the floor with E-MU 0404. Absolutely fantastic piece of equipment for the price, and very competitive sound quality with much more expensive DACs.

Mave's sound has very good clarity with both outputs and bass weights a ton but it still manages to put out good resolution. Sound is full, present and has the size of Ronnie Coleman in year 2005. All this even with quite young piece (10h listening) with stock op-amps and stock tube.

Only thing that I can point out - which is very, very minor - is the little noise that comes from speakers if you change between digital inputs that have signal coming in. Does this happen also with you? To test it stop all signals from the source(s), connect at least optical and USB cable between mave and source(s), and then just swap inputs from input selector. Is there any "zirp" noises when you change for. ex. from optical to USB or coaxial. This noise does not occur if I change the input between analog inputs.
post #845 of 2604
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legis View Post
What do you mean by your amps clips?
I run the tube amp out into a Behringer equalizer and the run the Behringer into my power amp. I use the volume control on my power amp to determine the sound volume actually leaving my speakers. I use the D1 as a pre-amp to give a line-level signal with plenty of floor level and headroom for the power amp to play with when driving my speakers.

When I run my cd player and use the direct bypass of the Mav D1, the Behringer's sound level indicator is maxed out at +6 db (which is as high as the meter goes, so who knows just how hot the signal is), which is a sound clip. If I turn the direct off and use the volume level on the Mav D1, I can put the sound level back at the 0 db, which gives me plenty of headroom. It gives me 12 db before the first signs of clipping.

However, when I use my turntable and integrated phono pre-amp, the sound leaving the D1 (in full bypass) and entering the Behringer is at -12 db from the ideal 0 db line signal. I have to turn up the volume on my power amp to properly shape the volume leaving the speakers.

Bottom line: I use the Mav D1 to try to keep my signal as close to a line level signal for the power amp to drive. To do this, sometimes I use the volume knob. Other times, I use the direct button. The whole time, I'm watching the incoming signal strength as indicated by my Behringer. I try to keep it at 0 db if all possible.
post #846 of 2604
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legis View Post
Only thing that I can point out - which is very, very minor - is the little noise that comes from speakers if you change between digital inputs that have signal coming in. Does this happen also with you?
Yes, this happens to me, too. It's also been reported by others here as well. I just hit the mute button on my power amp when switching sources. Not a deal breaker for me. My old man had an old Kenwood receiver from the 1970s (solid state) and it made a static hum every time we changed analog sources. So, even non-digital components have issues with energy leaks.
post #847 of 2604
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacseeker View Post
Isolation transformers and filters are not snake oil.
They only play a part if you have a very high audiophile setup.
If you don't believe that, and prefer to believe 'science', these isolation transformers are used in labs for example.
But if you don't hear the difference between 44,1kHz and 48kHz, between volumes in foobar, windows media player or kmixer, don't bother.
I hope I didn't imply that isolation transformers do nothing. I know they do benefit electronics otherwise they wouldn't be highly recommended or used so much. I was trying to say that I didn't notice a HUGE improvement. While there may have been one, I might not have noticed it. But all the little things add up I'm sure. WASAPI, quality cables, better opamps, isolation transformer, together they make a helluva difference. For $30 to have 3 of them shipped to me, that's not a big leap in my opinion for something that may or may not make an audible difference but WILL benefit the electronics.

Also, I also get the momentary static between Coaxial and Optical and possibly USB if I remember right. Not a big deal to me, I just make sure I don't have the volume way up
post #848 of 2604
Do any of you guys know if I can disable the direct button on the D1?

On top of the switch there is 2 rows of three connection points and I was wondering if you could run a jumper across the connection points and eliminate the switch?

How could one take it out of the loop or bypass it?

Now that I look at it a little further it looks like the connector next to the switch has the 3 wires that could be connected to one of the 2 rows of 3 connectors on the top of the switch. Does that sound right?

Scott
post #849 of 2604
We all get the static, but whats more defined is when sample rate switches. Over coax it is subtle and more electronic noise, over optical it is sharp and staticy.

@Direct button, no need to disable it? Just don't press it lol.

@Sparky, it was me who understated its importance in audio . I understand its importance in electronics but I still can't see it affecting actual sound quality. One day i'll give it a try though, for the price even if I can't hear any differences it is nice to have another line of defense against surges. Maybe one day I will find one of these Head-Fi meets, just to see the difference all that expensive stuff actually makes since only hearing is believing for me.
post #850 of 2604
I am trying to bypass or eliminate the direct switch from the circuit.
post #851 of 2604
I think he wants the switch ON but bypassed. If you don't care about warranty, I would just try jumpering them horizontally with some solder or something. BUT, I would say drop Ryan a email, you'll get a exact solution to what you need faster than it would take for us to speculate.

Assuming Sparky=Spanky... One way isolation transformers can help a lot (again depends on circuit and the electricity you're using) it can eliminate ground loops which from what I understand, introduce noise into the circuit. I'm also planning on getting a APC AVR module. Not for sound but just to protect my electronics. The isolation transformer I bought has 2 fuses in it and while I may not notice it, it's certainly doing something to help protect and clean.
post #852 of 2604
Quote:
Originally Posted by _Spanky_ View Post
I think he wants the switch ON but bypassed. If you don't care about warranty, I would just try jumpering them horizontally with some solder or something. BUT, I would say drop Ryan a email, you'll get a exact solution to what you need faster than it would take for us to speculate.
I am working with millerlitescott now to troubleshoot his problem, looks like we almost found the source of the problem.
post #853 of 2604
I measured Mavewrick with RMAA and E-MU 0404 PCI: This is not meant to be comparison of the sound card and Mave, but I'll still tell you that Maverick is much better sounding than E-MU.

Measured specs of E-MU 0404:



Measured specs of Maverick from left to right:
1. Optical in, normal out (white line in other pictures)
2. Optical in, tube out (green line in other pictures)
3. Analog in, normal out (cyan? line in other pictures)
4. Analog in, tube out (purple line in other pictures)



Freq response:



Noise floor:



Dynamic range:



THD% of the DAC (0,012%):



THD% of the tube (0,344%):



IMD% over freq:




Pictures can also be found here: Maverick Audio Tube Magic D1 pictures by LegisActio - Photobucket


Maverick D1 sounds damn good, and measures well. None actual flaws can be found at least to my eyes.

- IMD% nor THD% does not rise towards the high frequecies,
- Digital input's noise floor is low, and the DAC's specs are met.
- when analog inputs are used Maverick does not add any extra noise to the signal (noise floor ~-106dB of E-MU compared to the ~-103 dB of the Maverick)
- does not add any distortion to analog signals through analog in (E-MU 0,0009% v. Mave 0,0007%), unless wanted.

All in all, very good results.
post #854 of 2604
Sweet post, Legis; thanks for that

My left channel went out once; I turned the unit off, unplugged it and turned it back on, and it hasn't gone out since. This was shortly after I had turned it on one time after I had wired it into my receiver-controlled ac powerstrip. Before that, I had been leaving it on continuously with no problems.

My speakers also clipped in direct mode once; it was when the D1 had just been turned on and was through the tube out to my av receiver; I switched to attenuated mode and turned it down a bit. Later after it had warmed up, I switched back to direct mode with no problems.

IMHO the attenuation is very good with the volume knob; it does not seem to add any noise with my unit.

So now I leave the D1 on at all times unless I leave overnight, and neither problem has re-asserted itself. I am using the Maverick-upgraded NOS GE tube, your mileage may vary
post #855 of 2604
Hi,
I'm still waiting my D1 for some stupid Portugal DHL trouble. I just want to give my public thanks to Ryan for the totally helpfulness. He is an incredible seller!
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