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Maverick Audio DAC/Amp - Page 164

post #2446 of 2634
Quote:
Originally Posted by djnagle View Post

Which socket is for the pre amp.  I don't use mine as a headphone amp (sorry guys) so no need to swap the headphone opamp.

It is labelled U5. The IC socket on the right of the tube. 

The IC socket on the far right labelled U6 is the headphone opamp.

post #2447 of 2634
Quote:
Originally Posted by sKiZo View Post

Partially pressed in should be good if it's a solid connection. Can you easily rock the chip in the socket? Then I'd think twice about leaving it that way, but if it seems stable, why not? Be interesting to know if the top cover clears the SUN without the DIP8 extension. Just run a straight edge across to check that. If it's questionable, but you can still slide the cover on, probably not a bad idea to put a layer of insulation - black tape for instance - on the inside of the cover over the SUN to prevent any possible shorts ...

 

Or ... instead of sliding the cover on, try spreading the sides a bit at the back and putting it on straight down over the back plate, then just slide it forward that quarter inch it takes to mate with the faceplate. I still slide mine on, but I've spread the sides some, which makes it a LOT easier to install. Once it's on, I just put the D1 on it's side and apply a bit of pressure to line up the screw holes on the bottom. 

 

One tip ... ALWAYS ground yourself before working with op amps or any other ICs. Very sensitive to static. Either keep one hand on bare metal in the case or get a wrist strap.
 

Right now (at least until I settle on what tube I want to run - ya ... that could happen) I'm just putting the top on upside down to keep the dust out. Got a few more hours on the Tesla, and it's having it's moments. The sound stage is starting to open up, even if it is still a bit wobbly ... time will tell.

I am curious as to how it will sound. I got the triple mica for $15 including shipping. Not sure if thats a bit too much for it but aving those things come across the border sorta the way it is. :(.

Have you ever tried the WE 396A? I really, really love it and adding the SUN made it really open up and shine.


Actually, that is a good point. I don't intent to use the tubeout and the opamp at the same time. If getting the case is easy on and off; I think I will just slide the case off when I take it out and just plug the SUN into the headphone socket.

Seeing as if I use it at home it'l be pre-out to the X-Can v2 and the regular line out just goes directly from the DAC so :).
I am interested in what the Mica 3 will be like. 

When in doubt I can probably re-eBay it. Who knows.

post #2448 of 2634

It's this one ...

 

929c194d_dip8-socket.jpg

 

Yah .. I know ... please don't hit me ... <G>

 

The DAC (line output) is marked U5 on the board. It's the one closest to the tube ...
 

post #2449 of 2634

Ya beat me to it ...

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shroker View Post

I am curious as to how it will sound. I got the triple mica for $15 including shipping. Not sure if thats a bit too much for it but aving those things come across the border sorta the way it is. :(.

 

As said, I didn't really give my triple mica much of a chance to break in, but that WILL happen eventually. Be sure to post back once you have a chance to give yours a whirl. I've seen some really good reviews on it.

 

I've actually got two of em. And two of the dual plates. Came as a set. I've tried both triples, and the first one was breaking up a bit. Once again, maybe needs to burn in better ...

Have you ever tried the WE 396A? I really, really love it and adding the SUN made it really open up and shine.

 

That's one I've missed ... so far. Wait till I build on an addition to the house for tube storage. <G>

Actually, that is a good point. I don't intent to use the tubeout and the opamp at the same time. If getting the case is easy on and off; I think I will just slide the case off when I take it out and just plug the SUN into the headphone socket.

 

Once again, report back on your results. I did see a couple posts where people said removing the "unused" op amp DID make a difference in the sound ... but even they confessed it might have been a placebo effect. Removing the tube had no effect. Truth be told, I never turn mine off - old school ham radio habit - tubes seem to last longer if you just keep the heaters on. Less hot/cold cycles keep the filaments supple, or so <they> say ...


Seeing as if I use it at home it'l be pre-out to the X-Can v2 and the regular line out just goes directly from the DAC so :).
I am interested in what the Mica 3 will be like. 

When in doubt I can probably re-eBay it. Who knows.
 

Maybe it's time for a new site ... hmmmmm ... call it Rebay? I just checked, and somebody's already squatting on the name, probably hoping to make a million or so.

post #2450 of 2634

Rebay. HA. That would be hilarious.
"Hey Jon....doesn't that look like the present I gave you last week?"
"Uhhhhhhhh."


I pretty much just leave my D1 on all the time too and just mute the speakers when i go out to keep audio playing through it.|
I will indeed post back on some tests and curious to try out the RCA triple mica black plate when it gets here. :)

I have those DIP-8 sockets coming in maybe in a week or two. Gold pins like the HDAM. Hopefully double or triple stacking them won't lead to any quality loss.

post #2451 of 2634
post #2452 of 2634

Good link ... I stumbled across that one earlier in my research. Keep in mind this is strictly concerning headphone applications.

 

Worth noting for those who don't want to go the single to dual conversion and adapters required to run the OPA627, the AD 823 AN came in a close second, and is a LOT cheaper and also less work as it's a simple swap.

 

Also worth noting, this is just one guy's evaluation.

Of course, I agree whole heartedly, so goes without saying he's right ...L3000.gif

 

I expect my OPA627 pairs are well broken in by now, but I won't complain if they continue to improve ... not that I have any complaints as is.

post #2453 of 2634
Quote:
Originally Posted by sKiZo View Post

Good link ... I stumbled across that one earlier in my research. Keep in mind this is strictly concerning headphone applications.

 

Worth noting for those who don't want to go the single to dual conversion and adapters required to run the OPA627, the AD 823 AN came in a close second, and is a LOT cheaper and also less work as it's a simple swap.

 

Also worth noting, this is just one guy's evaluation.

Of course, I agree whole heartedly, so goes without saying he's right ...L3000.gif

 

I expect my OPA627 pairs are well broken in by now, but I won't complain if they continue to improve ... not that I have any complaints as is.

 

Interest sparked! Could I just snag one of these off ebay? I'm new to opamp rolling, so I'd love some guidance. It looks like I need 3 total? 

 

I have an original Dac from Maverick, I think those weren't socketed opamps, anyone remember offhand? 


Edited by elwappo99 - 7/24/12 at 12:03am
post #2454 of 2634

ooPs !!!

 

http://www.analog.com/en/precision-op-amps/high-supply-voltage-amplifiers/ad823/products/product.html

 

Looks like the AD823 AN is obsolete and out of production. I checked Mouser, and they don't got it. I'm sure they're out there somewhere.

 

Anybody??

 

It looks like the 823 was replaced with the AD8512, which apparently wasn't available when the linked tests were done. It's the correct package and pin assignments, so it should work fine.

 

Found this for reference:

http://www.head-fi.org/t/10365/has-anyone-tried-the-ad-8512-opamp

 

I'd be a bit leary about fleabay as that's the home of pirate chips ... try for a semi-reputable source anyway, even if it costs a bit more. Or, I see there's some listed there (all shipped from China, which is a clue of sorts), so spin the wheel and takes your chances? Most op amps aren't all that expensive (the OPA627 is a definite exception there), so do some shopping and keep your fingers crossed. And yes, the first run of the Maverick D1 had the op amps soldered in place. Not sure how many of those were sold. I see some people also had units where the factory retrofit the boards for sockets, then re-installed the original chips that had been soldered in, making for difficult removal. Only way to tell on yours is to pop the top, which can be a challenge the first time. Back up a couple pages in this thread to get a couple tips there. If you're handy with an iron, you can lift the chips if they're soldered in and install DIP8 sockets and roll away. That would require removing the board from the chassis, also a bit challenging if you're a novice at this sort of stuff.

 

As always, I disavow any knowledge or culpability due to things like exploding DACs and such. That said, I'd go for it myself, as the reports are consistent in that the upgrade really makes the D1 sing ...

 

PS ... you'll also want to review the first page of this thread for the pOOp sheet on all that is D1, including chip and tube options. Heck, read the whole thing - I did - and it only took me a month or so. <G>


Edited by sKiZo - 7/24/12 at 12:14pm
post #2455 of 2634

Thanks much for your help! I read through most of those pages and found the opamps from digikey for a little more, so no issue there.

 

I'm pretty sure I had one of the first 20 units, and when I replaced the tube, my memory tells me I noticed they were soldered. What dip8 sockets should I use? I looked on mouser and digikey and couldn't find any pictures. Is it something like this?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-8-PIN-DIP-DIP8-IC-Socket-Adapter-Gold-Plated-Opamp-/250975921213?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6f54a43d#ht_1440wt_1166

post #2456 of 2634

Yes, elwappo99. Those are correct and I like the gold pin ones. They have sturdy legs and look pretty. :).

 

post #2457 of 2634

ooooOOOOoooohhh ... shiny!

 

Also got me thinking about doing a bit of rolling myself. I saw some rave comments about using a metal can op amp (49720HA) and bookmarked that as a possibility back when I was researching DACs. Supposedly much quieter and "black" because of the additional shielding with killer range and sound stage. Problem being, I couldn't find anything on pin assignments, and they need to be soldered into a DIP8 socket to fit the D1.

 

Found these on fleabay just now ...

 

700

 

$20, but hey, I'm worth it ... <G> They're a fairly expensive component to begin with anyway - $8 plus the cost of the socket -  so it's actually not a bad deal.

 

Be interesting to pick one up and see how it goes head to head with the OPA 627 pair I'm currently using on the DAC side of the D1. My box is already socketed, so it'd be a simple plug 'n pray ...

 

You can do a search on 49720HA in this thread and see the comments on this mod.
 


Edited by sKiZo - 7/25/12 at 12:33pm
post #2458 of 2634

I tried the black mica. Great sound but not as open as the WE 396A. Going to burn them in longer but they're not as open and deep as the WE 396A's that is for sure.
Nice present sound for the vocals and higher notes but I really love the sound of the WE 396A.

If you don't mind using your D1 without the case. Should grab a SUN HDAM. :).

The sound stage does sound a bit crimped especially coming from the 396A. The lower frequency

Also, HOLY COW IS IT HOT. Hahahaha.

 

post #2459 of 2634

Hi all,

 

Will be getting the following DAC. hope I wont be disappointed.

:)

post #2460 of 2634

No, its a very good DAC and very use full, I use it everyday :)

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