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Maverick Audio DAC/Amp - Page 163

post #2431 of 2656

I wouldn't put too much into a device like the teralink, most dacs rock on USB.  The D2 has an upgraded USB section vs the D1(which was shoddy).


I am happy using Juli@ as my transport, coming from the infinitely more expensive halide bridge.

post #2432 of 2656

Having heard about how SPDIF is so much better than USB, I asked Ryan. He says not so's you'd notice. But ... could it be better? Therein lies the question. Still thinking it'd be an interesting experiment, but I'll put it on the back burner for now.


I did come up with a Plan B. Found an SPDIF header on the motherboard of my computer and have an expansion card coming that will give me both coaxial and optical out. That should <theoretically> give me the higher resolution signal into the D1. $15 ... worth trying for that.


Right now I'm putting the money into tubes. Scored a NOS Tesla 6CC42 and an RCA Command 5670 triple mica. Oh ... and just now pulled the trigger on a 1952 Western Electric JW 2C51 d getter. And I swear, that's it for tubes for this thing!


Probably ... Soon as I settle on my favorites, have to have me a garage sale ... <G>


Haven't tried the Tesla yet - saving the best for last? Right now, I'm burning in the RCA Command 5670. Only a few hours on it so far, but I'm liking what I hear.


And this thread is no longer dead. Long live the thread!

post #2433 of 2656

D1 USB sucks, but the teralink sucks as well imo.  Your better off with a sound card that outputs bit perfect up to a minimum 24/96 but most do 24/192,

post #2434 of 2656

Sound cards suck ...


In my experience anyway. The onboard audio was useless (as expected), so I went with an E-MU. That was fine - when it decided to play nice. More times than not, I spent my days wandering thru the seven levels of driver hell with that POS. Next up was a Xonar, which had real good reviews, but the software front end kept trying to throw in random FX (as in fx'd again) and was noisy to boot. I imagine a lot of the problems are with the creaky old motherboard I'm using - an ECS A780GM-A. Quad core, USB 2.0, so not REAL ancient.


Anyway, I've sworn off onboard sound for now, and taken the pledge ... <G>


PS ... just had an extended listen with the RCA Command 5670. Couple hours aren't enough to really tell, but I think I'm gonna like it. If I had a complaint, the vocals seem a bit distant compared to the '67 JW-WE396A/2C51 I've been using. I also had to crank the D1 gain up a couple notches - that WE is a screamer!


Anybody here migrate over from the D1 to the D2 for comparison's sake?


Edited by sKiZo - 6/27/12 at 4:54pm
post #2435 of 2656

This is a rudimentary question:


I have the Opamp 627 to install in my D1.  I plan to only use the chip for the headphone as this is my only 

method of using the D1.  Does the Opamp seat firmly into the board?  I am having difficulty seating the chip and thus getting a lot of static/distortion

in the headphone output.  

Thanks for any and all assistance.



post #2436 of 2656

Rudimentary is good ... I can handle rudimentary. Complicated could get complicated ... <G>


First off, you are aware that you need TWO OPA627 chips mounted to an adapter board similar to the one in the pic I posted up a while back? Knew that you did, but just checking. You also need a riser socket to allow room for the second OPA627 that's located underneath the board. Reason for all that is the OPA627 is a single channel chip, and the Maverick requires a double channel in a single socket.


So, why go thru all that? Based on experimentation (a lot of which was the result of forum tinkers who tried most anything that would fit and was compatible), the OPA627 upgrade was a major improvement over the stock chip. There's other options out there that are easier to install, but I'm real happy with what I'm hearing, so I'll stick with rolling the tube for now.


It's also rumoured that some of the earlier D1 models had the op amps soldered into the board from the factory. A redesign required those to be removed and replaced with another op amp. That could get a bit sloppy and made for difficult swaps. Not sure if that's the problem you're running into with yours.


My OPA627 upgrade was easy ... I let the factory do it. Maybe somebody else can chime in with first hand experience?


<tap tap tap> We're waiting!! <tap tap>


Oh. Speaking of tubes. Scored a virgin Tesla 6CC42 and just plugged that in last night. Only has around four hours on it so far, but it certainly sounds promising. The sound stage isn't as good as the JW WE 2C51 I've been using, but the bass is definitely tighter, and it seems smoother across the top also, and that's new out of the box. Just did a listen to Mussorgsky's Pictures at an Exhibition, and the horns were sweet ... I did have to turn down the gain a bit (jRiver is real handy for that - the Maverick gain is bypassed), which tells me it's a strong tube. Give it another hundred hours and see what happens.

Edited by sKiZo - 7/8/12 at 12:33pm
post #2437 of 2656

Thanks for the post.  I may have very well installed the OPA627 incorrectly.  I removed the riser sockets from the top of the female socket in the 2 location per your pic on the previous post.  I then inserted the OPA627 on each socket but no adapters or OPA627 underneath the board.  The pic you posted replicates exactly how my OPA627 is seated into the sockets.  Seems to work but perhaps I got this wrong.




post #2438 of 2656

I had a feeling that's what was happening. It gets a bit confusing, as many DACs use single channel op amps right out of the box. Having to do the dual to single channel conversion takes a bit more futzing about.


Here's a good pic showing the single to dual chip conversion socket.




Only difference is the Maverick requires the additional peg risers to allow enough clearance from the surrounding components. Well, that and the color. Not sure where Maverick get's their conversion boards. Almost looks like it'd fit without them, but you also need to deal with isolating the parts electrically.


Now ... let's see if my internet still works ... <G>




PS ... sounds like you also got the straight pin OPA 627s instead of the surface mount version. I'm thinking you're gonna run into problems because there's quite a bit of difference between the SOIC-8 (surface mount) and PDIP-8 (dual inline socketed) dimensions.





Edited by sKiZo - 7/8/12 at 9:21pm
post #2439 of 2656

I have a problem. How did you guys get the Sun HDAM to fit in the DAc socket? :S

post #2440 of 2656

I remember reading that it needs a DIP8 socket extension to clear the surrounding caps and such. Problem then is it's too tall for the case. Only options there are to either leave the top off or cut a hole so the SUN sticks up thru it.


I also remember seeing that there's no convenient place to attach the ground wire, but there <should> be enough slack that you can hook it to one of the case screws ... takes a bit of fiddling and coordination to do that ...

post #2441 of 2656

Well, I basically have the top left off so extending it is not too much of an issue for me.

It is partirally pressed in and is usable but I don't know if thats a bad idea or not. :P.
I will look for a DIP-8 extension socket.

I figured I will need it at some point if I wanted to (if I ever feel skilled enough (solder noob). to do cap replacements.

Thanks for replyin.

The D1 is super fun to play with and listen to and keeping this thread alive is important! :)


eBay time!

Edited by Shroker - 7/10/12 at 10:11am
post #2442 of 2656

Partially pressed in should be good if it's a solid connection. Can you easily rock the chip in the socket? Then I'd think twice about leaving it that way, but if it seems stable, why not? Be interesting to know if the top cover clears the SUN without the DIP8 extension. Just run a straight edge across to check that. If it's questionable, but you can still slide the cover on, probably not a bad idea to put a layer of insulation - black tape for instance - on the inside of the cover over the SUN to prevent any possible shorts ...


Or ... instead of sliding the cover on, try spreading the sides a bit at the back and putting it on straight down over the back plate, then just slide it forward that quarter inch it takes to mate with the faceplate. I still slide mine on, but I've spread the sides some, which makes it a LOT easier to install. Once it's on, I just put the D1 on it's side and apply a bit of pressure to line up the screw holes on the bottom. 


One tip ... ALWAYS ground yourself before working with op amps or any other ICs. Very sensitive to static. Either keep one hand on bare metal in the case or get a wrist strap.

Right now (at least until I settle on what tube I want to run - ya ... that could happen) I'm just putting the top on upside down to keep the dust out. Got a few more hours on the Tesla, and it's having it's moments. The sound stage is starting to open up, even if it is still a bit wobbly ... time will tell.

post #2443 of 2656

I have my D1 with the WE 396A and the SUN HDAM in DAC and oh my. It sounds gorgeous over my speakers.
I need to finish tweaking my X-can v2. just have to do hte caps for that.

Anyone try RCA 3 Mica Black Plate D Getter 5670 Tube with the D1? 


Yeah, grounding is always important :).
My computer sucks up most of the dust; the rest i can just air blow it out of there heh.

It slightly rocks. One end is basically sitting ontop of the caps.

The case cannot clear the HDAM installed unless you cut a hole out or use the extension leads and lay it side ways.
I have my left open to vent the heat fully. I just ordered some DIP-8 extensions..Don't know if they are extensions or just sockets but I figure the sockets can be plugged into the D1.
It comes in 10 so I figure I can just stack 2 and put the HDAM ontop if one doesn't clear the capactiors. Hahahah.

I am curious how the SUN will sound in the headphone socket. I didn't really bother since I plan to route the sound to my headphone amp but if it sounds nice onboard I might get some money for another one and use it in the headphone socket when I just bring the D1 out to a home lan party or something. 

Unplug the HDAMs and pack them back in the box and carry the D1 there. 

Getting the case back on is a pain....maybe it needs some lube.

post #2444 of 2656

Nothing to say you can't swap whatever op amps you're using between the DAC and headphone sides. Rumor has it, you can run either socket without a chip, and likewise with the tube if you're not using the DAC side. Haven't tried it myself. Anyway, that's where those extra risers might come in handy. Set up both sockets, and swap away.


Like I mentioned, I did spread the sides out a bit on mine. That helped some, but sliding was still a problem. Next step was to round the corners of the back plate with a dremel ... that helped a LOT, and it's one of those, if you didn't do it, you'd never spot it, kinda things. Still a bit sticky, so I spread a bit of SilGlyde in the inside corners of the box. Now it slides on and off real nice. Only thing is, I do have to apply pressure to the sides to line up the bottom screws, but that's a small price to pay considering the alternative.


Heck, on those extensions ... stack em all in there and put a flashing light on the top to warn airplanes. <G>


Seriously though, minimum is enough. Don't want to build too much capacitance into the circuit.


And yes - I have tried the triple mica RCA ... those are the Command Series I might have mentioned earlier. No sir ... didn't like it. Sound stage was cramped, and it was a bit on the shrill side. Also, the bass wasn't as defined as what I'd gotten used to. Then again, I didn't really give it a chance to break in (important with NOS), and I'd just scored a 1956 JW series WE 2C51 that was looking for a home. I've also got the double plate Command Series - haven't even tried that yet ... Too many tubes, not enough time ...




Granted - I may have gotten a bit carried away, but I started looking and kept finding real deals. I swear, that's it!!


Probably. <G>


PS ... I like the glasses case - just cut a piece of fuzzy velcro and pinched that up into folds to separate the tubes, then stuck it in. Protects the tubes nicely and makes for easy swaps. If it helps any, I've got them arranged in preference order, left to right, rated "eh" to "wOw" ...


- 1969 RCA Command 2 mica - haven't tried it yet, so no opinion

- 1965 RCA Command 3 mica - already went over that

- 1983 GE 5 Star - The "upgrade" tube that came with the D1. Real decent, but a bit muddy in the mids.

- 1972 WE JW-3C51 - Very nice. Good solid bass & dynamic response, wide stage, great mids and tweets

- 1961 Tung-Sol 2C51 - Like the '72 WE, but mellower. Real nice for orchestral and jazz. Very strong vocals.

- 1956 WE JW-2C51 - My favorite so far. Combines the virtues of the '61 Tung-Sol and the '72 WE, but with a bunch more punch. Bass is VERY tight. Detail is amazing - I hear a LOT more individual instruments in orchestal pieces than with any other tube.


- 1959 Tesla 6CC42 (not pictured). New to me with just a few hours, so the verdict is still out. Supposed to be about the best in the series except for the Bendix 6385, which tends to be VERY expensive if you can find one. Every tube I got, plus another $50 on average ... I'll pass.


Probably ... <G>


* Worth mentioning ... the first three were a bit tiring as time went on. The last three, I could listen all night ... Once again, jury is still out on the  Tesla, but I haven't reached screaming for the off switch yet ...

Edited by sKiZo - 7/10/12 at 2:13pm
post #2445 of 2656

Which socket is for the pre amp.  I don't use mine as a headphone amp (sorry guys) so no need to swap the headphone opamp.

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