The GrubDAC - Page 56

Quote:

Originally Posted by akgfan 

Isn't that just your initial impression? I was thinking the same at first and searching forum. But no solution worked and then I got used to it. It just sounds so much clearer and have more highs than for example soundcard. However, when songs have deep bass, the bass is there.

 

Edit: If you are used to EQ or some bass boost function on your soundcard and forgot that you have enabled it, you may be surprised. And you never know how your soundcard manipulates with sound.

I was listening to Spotify and the highs were killing me with no bass at all.  When I used iTunes and adjusted the built in equalizer I could bump up the bass and drop the highs to get it sounding better.  I ended up loading Equalify into Spotify, which is an EQ plug for Spotify, and it allowed me to adjust the music to taste.  I still think there is not enough bass and the highs are overpowering IMHO.

Thanks,

Mike

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdkJake 

Can you verify the values of C16 and C17?

 

R8 and R9 look to be correct (110R), but, I cannot see the WIMA caps well enough to verify they are the correct value.

They are the WIMA caps that came in the kit.  .015 63~

Quote:

Originally Posted by mmcaleer 

I was listening to Spotify and the highs were killing me with no bass at all.  When I used iTunes and adjusted the built in equalizer I could bump up the bass and drop the highs to get it sounding better.  I ended up loading Equalify into Spotify, which is an EQ plug for Spotify, and it allowed me to adjust the music to taste.  I still think there is not enough bass and the highs are overpowering IMHO.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

 

There is definitely something still wrong.  The GrubDAC has excellent, authoritative bass.  How about that wiring to the PCB?  Can you try to solder to the topside some of the exposed wires and pads on the ground leads?  What kind of connector are you using now?  Can you try just some alligator clips to make the connections?
 

Well, I have come to the conclusion that I have shaky hands. I tried building one of these for the Millet Mosfet Max I've been working on. I started with a SkeletonDAC, and screwed that up, and I just screwed up the grubDAC. I have a really hard time with surface mount stuff. Oh well, maybe one day... Until then, I think I'm going to need to buy a pre-built DAC. Thanks for designing what appears to be an awesome product, guys!

Have you destroyed the boards or are they salvageable?

I might be able to fix them up if they are not too badly damaged...
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by scootsit 

Well, I have come to the conclusion that I have shaky hands. I tried building one of these for the Millet Mosfet Max I've been working on. I started with a SkeletonDAC, and screwed that up, and I just screwed up the grubDAC. I have a really hard time with surface mount stuff. Oh well, maybe one day... Until then, I think I'm going to need to buy a pre-built DAC. Thanks for designing what appears to be an awesome product, guys!

The skeleton is pretty screwed up. The grub may be salvagable. I'd be happy to drop it in the mail to ya. PM me your address?

Started tinkering with my Grubdac after having it put away for a couple of months. Resoldered the chips, tried it once, the Wolfson chip gave some orange light and smoke as I plugged it in. Tried reflowing one more time and VOILA, IT WORKS.

Really, after the chips giving out smoke and light like that I was thought it was screwed. Glad it works! The audio is good!

Quote:

Originally Posted by lehtinel 

Started tinkering with my Grubdac after having it put away for a couple of months. Resoldered the chips, tried it once, the Wolfson chip gave some orange light and smoke as I plugged it in. Tried reflowing one more time and VOILA, IT WORKS.

 

Really, after the chips giving out smoke and light like that I was thought it was screwed. Glad it works! The audio is good!

You're right - that's surprising, but I'm glad you got it working!
 

Im really glad too. After losing and burning chips, ordering new ones, having the project put away because of the frustation surrounding it. 

Only goes to prove that this DYI SMD stuff really needs patience. I've now got a clear and crisp setup at work: GrubDAC - 6DJ8 Amp - Sennheiser HD600, makes Mondays less Monday 

Hello,

Does anyone know if I can use 1/8W resistors instead of the 1/4W resistors. I was thinking about using some thin film resistors instead, just for the heck of it, but it seems they only come in 1/8W.

Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheLaw 

Hello,

 

Does anyone know if I can use 1/8W resistors instead of the 1/4W resistors. I was thinking about using some thin film resistors instead, just for the heck of it, but it seems they only come in 1/8W.

 

Thanks.

Hi! I think it acceptable.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheLaw 

Hello,

 

Does anyone know if I can use 1/8W resistors instead of the 1/4W resistors. I was thinking about using some thin film resistors instead, just for the heck of it, but it seems they only come in 1/8W.

 

Thanks.

The only resistors in the signal path are the thru-hole RN50's. Deviating from the BOM for the smd resistors is not going to yield any benefits whatsoever, unless you find some purty colourful ones, then the bling factor might increase depending on your tastes.

1206 thin films come in 1/4W, shouldn't be that hard to find, but 1/8W are fine too.

If you're gonna upgrade the SMD resistors for something different, why not go for mini-MELF 0204s?

These use the same pad size as 1206s, but are tubular, like thru hole resistors. Look for SMM0204s on Mouser or MMA0204s on digikey.

Personally I would (and did) stick to the BOM/kit.

Okay I suppose I will just stick to the standard thick films. But thanks anyway. MELFs are like impossible to solder...soo...