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Bravo Audio - funny looking little tube amps - Page 156

post #2326 of 2645
Cool, thanks for the detailed answer.

I will look at modding mine in the future, the cost is not much to replace the main caps and MOSFETs.

I will also look at a Sylvania tube for it, 12AU7.
post #2327 of 2645
Quote:
Originally Posted by razor5cl View Post

I hope to pick one of these up soon. This'll be my first tube amp, and I have a few questions. How long does it take to warm up, and how hot does it get? I hope that it gets really hot and takes a long time to warm up, just for that novelty factor.

 

1) The output is muted when you first turn it on. It will come alive after about 10-15 seconds. As others have said, optimal performance will occur after full warmup (which is probably dependent on your tube). I have not attempted to time when that happens. These preamp tubes do not get hot to the touch (at least, the V2 doesn't), so there really isn't going to be a whole lot of warmup time (no more than a few minutes at best). I do not personally notice any significant difference between turn on performance and performance after a period of time. Both of my V2's behave the same way.

 

2) In stock form, the heat sinks for the IC's are too hot to touch. I cool mine with a small USB powered fan, which keeps it cool enough to touch. Some people have reported that heat affects the longevity of this device, so I have chosen to cool mine (at the possible risk of not allowing the tube to heat up fully). Again, these tubes do not run hot, so a bit of cooling really should not affect their performance.

 

The capacitors I am going to put in mine after modding will be too tall for the stock top plate. At this point, I am planning on leaving the top plate off altogether. One idea I have is to replace the standoffs with longer items, and mount my cooling fan facing down over the top of the whole assembly, using the standoffs. Or I may just use a screen with longer standoffs, and leave the cooling fan separate. I guess it depends on how industrious I feel at the time hah.

post #2328 of 2645
Quote:
Originally Posted by ostewart View Post

Cool, thanks for the detailed answer.

I will look at modding mine in the future, the cost is not much to replace the main caps and MOSFETs.

I will also look at a Sylvania tube for it, 12AU7.

 

Personally, I have found that Mullard tubes are the best choice. I don't keep a d-getter Mullard at my work setup, just in case someone knows what it is (on that setup, I use a cheaper o-getter Mullard that I was lucky enough to buy cheaply, because it's a bit low testing).

 

Just to be complete, I have also tried Telefunkens, Amerex/Mullards, Tung-Sol tubes, and a couple dozen different American vintage tubes. Yes, I know, I've spent waaaaay too much money on 12AU7's LOL :L3000: Anyhow, for my gear, the Mullards seem to result in the best SQ. As I type this, I'm listening to music on my laptop, driving a Schiit Modi, into a Bravo V2 with a d-getter Mullard, driving my Beyerdynamic DT770 - 250 ohm cans. This has become my favorite setup (much as I hate to sideline my Schiit Magni).

post #2329 of 2645
Thanks, I'll look into getting a Millard maybe then smily_headphones1.gif

I use my ocean with German Meastro GMP-400 and they pair so well together.
post #2330 of 2645
Quote:
Originally Posted by ostewart View Post

Thanks, I'll look into getting a Millard maybe then smily_headphones1.gif

I use my ocean with German Meastro GMP-400 and they pair so well together.

 

A suggestion: The late 50's Heath-branded Mullards are a very good deal. They use an o-getter, but they can also be purchased for $35 or so on eBay (vs. $99 for a d-getter). I once bought a pair of them for $50, and they are quite nice for the money.

post #2331 of 2645
More photos, experimenting with long exposure smily_headphones1.gif

The light one, I only flashed a torch quickly whilst taking the PIC so you still get the glow.




Edited by ostewart - 1/8/14 at 4:41am
post #2332 of 2645
Nice photos! I think the second one is particularly nice, obviously that's not what you'd see with the naked eye BUT that does capture what we'd want to see biggrin.gif


UmustBKiddin,
For what it's worth, Judge Buff had at least two amps, and I think one of them was a modded inDeed G3 which could switch between 6DJ8 variant tubes and 12au7 variant tubes. The different tubes have different heater voltages, the rest of the circuit can be modded.
post #2333 of 2645
I agree, those pics are nice for showing off to your friends what tube amps look like. Also, do you think the top and bottom transparent plates can be painted?
post #2334 of 2645
Quote:
Originally Posted by razor5cl View Post

I agree, those pics are nice for showing off to your friends what tube amps look like. Also, do you think the top and bottom transparent plates can be painted?
You mean the clear acrylic plastic on the other models? Uuuuh... sure I guess, but I'm not sure what paint I'd suggest, once acrylic paint dries it might crack from the heat of the amp.
post #2335 of 2645
I recased my bravo v2 cuz interfrrence. Pick any color aluminum u like wink.gif I dont use it much anymore since i finished my bottlehead crack and (gasp) got a sunrise II
post #2336 of 2645
Oh yeah, the heat won't play nice with the paint, should have thought of that.
post #2337 of 2645
Quote:
Originally Posted by razor5cl View Post

Oh yeah, the heat won't play nice with the paint, should have thought of that.
Maybe like a non-flammable lacquer or something? Could be cool.
post #2338 of 2645

hi everyone, i just order a bravo v2, going to pair it with my akg k240 mkii. just wondering what tube should i change to have better bass? im using laptop and is there anyway i can pair my fiio e10 with bravo v2 as well?


Edited by chinti - 1/14/14 at 7:52am
post #2339 of 2645
You can use the line out on the E10 into the 3.5mm or RCA inputs of the Bravo V2.
post #2340 of 2645
RCA black plates have the most slam and impact. Mullards have a good low end, depends on type.
Edited by stupidmop - 1/14/14 at 10:01am
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