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Bravo Audio - funny looking little tube amps - Page 143

post #2131 of 2599
Quote:
Originally Posted by RAZRr1275 View Post

I'm well aware that synergy is important. In the case of the fostex and k702s current is pretty critical though to making things sound good. 

 

The bravo v2 and garage1217 are both class a hybrid offerings and trust me tube rolling didn't make the fostex or k702s sound good. I have a bunch of different tubes that I tried. It's that it doesn't deliver enough current.

I'd recommend one of the garage1217 offerings. If you want to go to the beyers or senns immediately I'd suggest the Ember if its within budget as its designed to have enough power for all sorts of headphones. If you plan for going for the low impedance cans the Sunrise II will do fine but it struggles a bit with high impedance headphones.

Then it's not a matter of lot's of power requirement or not, you just need a better overall amp than either the Sunrise or the Bravo/Indeed. In relation to a FR graph and the way impedence behaves, the K/Q70X doesn't need a lot of current and stays steady at the nominal rated z it is at. As I said, it's not really current i.e power that makes things sound good it's synergy.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by brother love View Post

$850 for cans & amp. Portability not required.

If you're driving the HD600's or high z headphone, I'd look no further than a Bottlehead Crack which punches above it's price/sound performance ratio by a lot.

 

I'd look into a the Schiit line of amp's with that sort of budget, $350-400 should leave you plenty of left over $$ to get yourself a nice headphone with spare change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mshenay View Post

You could Easily get a Little Dot MK IV and something like the Dt 880 600 ohm, the Ath W1000x, or the SennHesier HD 600 or 650. I'd recommend going spilt down the middle. $425 for cans $425 for an amp. And for $425 there are a lot of really nice options out there depending on what you want! 

+1. Also a good recommendation.

post #2132 of 2599
Quote:
Originally Posted by Judge Buff View Post

This person knows whereof he speaks... The beauty of these Indeeds and Bravos IS that they cost pocket change and are EASY to mod! Little changes pay big dividends in sound quality. If I paid $200+ for a Sunrise Whatever, after my wife beat me half to death for spending $200+, I'd still look for mods to make on it. My G2 FrankenAmp sounds amazing. I paid $110 (I think) for two of them without tubes and only one PS. I still haven't modded one of them and I also have a G3 to mod. My FrankenAmp sounds better to my old ears than the stock G3 does. I'm saving the G3 mod for a cold weather project to do in between football games this fall/winter. Start cheaply, buy great replacement parts, practice your solder skills, then tinker...

LISTEN TO THIS MAN, he is the Modded Hybrid Tube PROPHET xD, really he is :O

 

But yea that's the exact point of those amps! Sadly I can't mod worth a crap [that might be changing soon] but the low low price and YAY TUBE swapping are a greatin introduction to the world of Tube amps! [how mny times have we said this now lawl] 

 

And +1 as well for the Bottle Crack and Bit Frost recommendations.

 

Thankfully I enjoy my Matrix M Stage [LME49990 opAmp] enough to not need another Solid State amp. 

post #2133 of 2599

I never quite understood your signature Mshenay lol.

post #2134 of 2599
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post

I never quite understood your signature Mshenay lol.

it's a joke related to an anime, you'd have to had seen the image to get it

post #2135 of 2599

Yeah. You know, it gets old listening to people post in the Bravo thread all about better this, better that. Truly. The whole point of buying a Bravo is, you're basically trying to go cheap for some reason, and you want bang for the buck. For $70 on Amazon, or maybe a bit less on Ebay (if you can outbid the resellers), IMO there is no better amp. And if there is a better amp, I hope someone throws an empty beer bottle at me and sends me a link.

 

(Please don't tell me Little Bears are better. No.)

 

To the person with $850 bucks to spend: get yourself a Bottlehead Crack and some HD650's, and be done with it.


Edited by UmustBKidn - 8/3/13 at 6:45am
post #2136 of 2599
Quote:
Originally Posted by UmustBKidn View Post

Yeah. You know, it gets old listening to people post in the Bravo thread all about better this, better that. Truly. The whole point of buying a Bravo is, you're basically trying to go cheap for some reason, and you want bang for the buck. For $70 on Amazon, or maybe a bit less on Ebay (if you can outbid the resellers), IMO there is no better amp. And if there is a better amp, I hope someone throws an empty beer bottle at me and sends me a link.

 

(Please don't tell me Little Bears are better. No.)

 

To the person with $850 bucks to spend: get yourself a Bottlehead Crack and some HD650's, and be done with it.

The crack I can agree with, the HD 650 depends on your tastes... 

post #2137 of 2599
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mshenay View Post

The crack I can agree with, the HD 650 depends on your tastes... 

 

Agreed. I was just adding up numbers. Personally, I'm going to give my Beyer dt770's a crack at a crack (does that sound funny?) before I swap them out for a pair of HD6x0's.

post #2138 of 2599
Quote:
Originally Posted by UmustBKidn View Post

 

Agreed. I was just adding up numbers. Personally, I'm going to give my Beyer dt770's a crack at a crack (does that sound funny?) before I swap them out for a pair of HD6x0's.

U know the Open Byer cans are better than the closed ones, b4 u sell ur Closed 770 u ought to at least try the 880 

post #2139 of 2599
Sorry folks. I didn't mean to derail the thread. I really appreciate everyones recomendations.

Now as it relates to the Bravo V1 deluxe, or a tube hybrid like the Project Sunrise II, what are some higher quality headphones that have a good synergy with these type headamps? Again, because they have 6v tubes like my Grant Fidelity TubeDAC-11, I would have a nice tube collection to take advantage of for rolling into these 2 amps.
post #2140 of 2599

I am kinda new to the desktop high-fi for lack of better words. I have been running some Audio Engine A5+ desktop speakers, Audioengine D1 DAC/Amp and just received the Bravo V2. I also purchased a Genalex Gold Lion 12AU7 Tube to "Roll In." My question is this: how should I set up the Bravo with the DI? Can I run the D1 as the preamp, then go from my headphone outputs on the D1 to the Bravo's input, then run RCAs to my A5s and headphones?  It seems to work and sound good, but after reading the levels of information some of you posses I figured I better look for some expert advice/guidance on this matter. Any help/input is greatly appreciated. 

post #2141 of 2599
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mshenay View Post

U know the Open Byer cans are better than the closed ones, b4 u sell ur Closed 770 u ought to at least try the 880 

 

Oh I am sure they are. I bought the beyer DT770's because they were closed, highly rated, and in my price range biggrin.gif They are the setup I use for my "home away from home" ... during the week I commute a long ways and rent a room in someone else's house. When I come home, it is the dead of night usually, and I dare not wake the folks sleeping elsewhere in the house. So, closed cans are what I need if I want to crank anything up at night, listen to movies, etc.

 

On the weekend, I have my own place elsewhere, so I can crank it up until the neighbors complain. Since they usually play Karaoke until 2am, and I can hear it on the other side of the house next door, through a window facing the other way, I'm thinking I won't have any complaints from them lol L3000.gif

 

I have my eyes on the HD650/Bottlehead Crack combo for my weekend home ... where I can crank up whatever. That much of that setup is determined. What I haven't decided yet, is what I will use for a DAC. So far the Modi has proven to be an admirable DAC for my home away from home. I may buy another one, because I am just not sure if the Bifrost will be that much of an improvement, given my old ears and music collection (neither of which really justify the expense).

 

I am also on the verge of buying another Bravo V2 just to putz around with. With all this talk of modding, I have become curious. Especially since Judge Buff seems to be back, and can offer advice when I gank something lol.

post #2142 of 2599
Quote:
Originally Posted by brother love View Post

Sorry folks. I didn't mean to derail the thread. I really appreciate everyones recomendations.

Now as it relates to the Bravo V1 deluxe, or a tube hybrid like the Project Sunrise II, what are some higher quality headphones that have a good synergy with these type headamps? Again, because they have 6v tubes like my Grant Fidelity TubeDAC-11, I would have a nice tube collection to take advantage of for rolling into these 2 amps.

 

I have personally had great success with Sony MDR 7506 cans, with the beyer earpad mod, on my Bravo V2. These are roughly $85 + $22 for the new earpads. I have to use closed back cans for a reason on my Bravo (used at work). So I can't recommend any good open back cans. I like em a lot, especially for this price range beyersmile.png

 

post #2143 of 2599
Quote:
Originally Posted by SanDIegoDog View Post

I am kinda new to the desktop high-fi for lack of better words. I have been running some Audio Engine A5+ desktop speakers, Audioengine D1 DAC/Amp and just received the Bravo V2. I also purchased a Genalex Gold Lion 12AU7 Tube to "Roll In." My question is this: how should I set up the Bravo with the DI? Can I run the D1 as the preamp, then go from my headphone outputs on the D1 to the Bravo's input, then run RCAs to my A5s and headphones?  It seems to work and sound good, but after reading the levels of information some of you posses I figured I better look for some expert advice/guidance on this matter. Any help/input is greatly appreciated. 

 

Um, yes and no. Don't use the headphone jack on the D1 to run the Bravo. That's just a bad idea, because you'd be running an amplified signal into another amplifier. There's not a lot of point in owning all that cool gear and not using it properly.

 

You now own two output devices, both of which need the input from one DAC. So if you want to hook both up, you need a switch. I did a quick check on Parts Express and found this one. You'll need something like that to switch the output of your DAC to the input of either your speakers or headphones (there may be better options, this example is for illustration only). Others may have better recommendations.

 

Since you're using desktop speakers, I presume your computer is your audio source. Given these assumptions, this is what I would do, just to get the Bravo running:

 

  • Connect a USB cable from your computer to the D1's USB connector on the back panel. In a pinch, you can probably borrow the USB cable from your printer.
  • Connect a stereo RCA cable from the D1's RCA outputs, to the Bravo's RCA inputs. Red to red, white to white.
  • Connect your headphone to the Bravo's headphone jack. Turn the volume down before turning the switches on.
  • In your computer, set the D1 DAC as your audio device. This is usually under Control Panel -> Sound. Assuming you've made the above connections, there will be two: one for your computer, and one for the DAC. If you use the switch setup I discuss below, just leave this set to your D1 DAC.
  • When using the D1 audio device, the computer's volume control should be set to maximum. Control the volume with the Bravo. It should return to the previous setting when you switch back to the computer's audio.

 

Ok. Now, turn everything on, and give the tube 10-15 sec to warm up. Then turn the volume up slowly. You won't need to give it much of a turn.

 

Now, if you want to use a switch, simply insert the switch in between the DAC and the Bravo and Audioengine speakers. You'll need a total of 3 sets of RCA cables to do that.

 

Computer -> USB cable -> D1 DAC -> RCA cable to switch -> Switch -> one set of outputs to Bravo, one set to Audioengine speakers.

 

I hope that's clear, but if you need a picture, reply and I'll attempt to scrawl something useful. If you have any kind of sound card on your computer with RCA outputs, then you can also opt to use that to run either the Bravo or the speakers. I am assuming that you are not using a sound card. If you are, then you have more choices and it gets more confusing lol. In this case, you might choose to run say, the speakers with the sound card. So you would not need an external switch. To choose between headphones or speakers, you'd select the desired output device in the Control Panel -> Sound settings.

 

When you want to swap tubes, turn the DAC and Bravo off, and let it cool down a bit. The blue LED will glow for a while. The tube in mine never gets hot, but I like to let it cool for a couple minutes. I also use a small fan to keep my Bravo cool. I found a very nice Thermaltake USB model that sits about 6 inches away from mine at work. I use a USB power supply to run it.

 

PS: My cable recommendations are for illustration only. Some folks get very choosy about cables. There's cheap, and there's expensive, but with a cheap setup I don't see the point going nuts with cables. Auvio from Radio Shack is probably fine, as would be Mediabridge or Monoprice cables from Amazon (though I would avoid the Monoprice RCA cables, they are too damn tight).


Edited by UmustBKidn - 8/3/13 at 11:50pm
post #2144 of 2599
Quote:
Originally Posted by UmustBKidn View Post

 

Um, yes and no. Don't use the headphone jack on the D1 to run the Bravo. That's just a bad idea, because you'd be running an amplified signal into another amplifier. There's not a lot of point in owning all that cool gear and not using it properly.

 

You now own two output devices, both of which need the input from one DAC. So if you want to hook both up, you need a switch. I did a quick check on Parts Express and found this one. You'll need something like that to switch the output of your DAC to the input of either your speakers or headphones (there may be better options, this example is for illustration only). Others may have better recommendations.

 

Since you're using desktop speakers, I presume your computer is your audio source. Given these assumptions, this is what I would do, just to get the Bravo running:

 

  • Connect a USB cable from your computer to the D1's USB connector on the back panel. In a pinch, you can probably borrow the USB cable from your printer.
  • Connect a stereo RCA cable from the D1's RCA outputs, to the Bravo's RCA inputs. Red to red, white to white.
  • Connect your headphone to the Bravo's headphone jack. Turn the volume down before turning the switches on.
  • In your computer, set the D1 DAC as your audio device. This is usually under Control Panel -> Sound. Assuming you've made the above connections, there will be two: one for your computer, and one for the DAC. If you use the switch setup I discuss below, just leave this set to your D1 DAC.
  • When using the D1 audio device, the computer's volume control should be set to maximum. Control the volume with the Bravo. It should return to the previous setting when you switch back to the computer's audio.

 

Ok. Now, turn everything on, and give the tube 10-15 sec to warm up. Then turn the volume up slowly. You won't need to give it much of a turn.

 

Now, if you want to use a switch, simply insert the switch in between the DAC and the Bravo and Audioengine speakers. You'll need a total of 3 sets of RCA cables to do that.

 

Computer -> USB cable -> D1 DAC -> RCA cable to switch -> Switch -> one set of outputs to Bravo, one set to Audioengine speakers.

 

I hope that's clear, but if you need a picture, reply and I'll attempt to scrawl something useful. If you have any kind of sound card on your computer with RCA outputs, then you can also opt to use that to run either the Bravo or the speakers. I am assuming that you are not using a sound card. If you are, then you have more choices and it gets more confusing lol. In this case, you might choose to run say, the speakers with the sound card. So you would not need an external switch. To choose between headphones or speakers, you'd select the desired output device in the Control Panel -> Sound settings.

 

When you want to swap tubes, turn the DAC and Bravo off, and let it cool down a bit. The blue LED will glow for a while. The tube in mine never gets hot, but I like to let it cool for a couple minutes. I also use a small fan to keep my Bravo cool. I found a very nice Thermaltake USB model that sits about 6 inches away from mine at work. I use a USB power supply to run it.

 

PS: My cable recommendations are for illustration only. Some folks get very choosy about cables. There's cheap, and there's expensive, but with a cheap setup I don't see the point going nuts with cables. Auvio from Radio Shack is probably fine, as would be Mediabridge or Monoprice cables from Amazon (though I would avoid the Monoprice RCA cables, they are too damn tight).

Man, what I really need is 1 Input three output... that seems to be the oppisite. I want to hook my Dac up to something that can regulate which Amp get's the Input from the Dac 

post #2145 of 2599
Just buy a belkin rockstar splitter
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