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Headamp Blue Hawaii Special Edition - Page 302

post #4516 of 5782
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholas029 View Post
 

well please let us know how Rachel responds to your questions about quality control.  I believe she sent a 32 page instruction manual to the boys in Hong Kong detailing how to test those tubes. Be careful of asking how she monitors compliance from Canada if she never actually touches the tubes that she sent to you. 

 

I got my Psvane's via ebay, not from Grant Fidelity. However, looking at GF's more recent words on their post-production extra matching and testing, I think the extra $30 or so would be well worth it if I were to get any more Psvanes.

 

Anyway, the culprit of my Unexplained Noise can now be revealed: It was the Tube that did it. The noise did move with the tubes when I swapped them around. Talk about being caught in the act: I could actuallly see some sparks/arcs in one of the PH's - at which point I thought it might be quite a good idea if I switched off the amp.

 

The trouble is, having been spoilt by the PH sound, I'd hate to downgrade now, so it's either another set of PH's or the NOS route - and the latter has its own trials and tribulations, especially for a Tube Noob with no Tube Tester etc.

 

In the meantime, the stock JJs are going back in for a couple of days, so I can lessen my expectations in order to make my Treasures sound good again.

 

Phil95, I'm glad it wasn't the headhones themselves - that would have been much more effort to resolve.

post #4517 of 5782
I'm pleased you got the problem sorted out Richard, and found out what the culprit was. I'm also thinking on getting a quad of Psvanes, ( eventually ) but I'll be getting them from Grant Fidelity.
post #4518 of 5782
Quote:
Originally Posted by wink View Post
 

I believe black and white to be necesssary in instances like these, as colouration only obfuscates the situation when lucidity is a necessary requirement.

The melting of the T2 in itself is a problem as the heat generated is substantially greater than that already generated in the T2's normal mode. Blisters from the volume knob, which is a normal occurence - is exacerbated when T2 is in meltdown mode.

 

Meltdown, as a concept regarding cheese is a very good prospect and considerably enhances the flavour of the bovine cultured curd.

Meltdown in electronic componentry is in the diametrically opposite camp and is a situation which has severly detrimental effects on the owner's pacificity, fiscal situation and immediate health.

 

The destruction of the amplifying device (T2) could occasion the destruction of it's surroundings such as the headphones and equipment shelf/rack/table and all in it's immediate environment, perhaps even the whole room or dwelling.

If combustion is not achieved, then health concerns over toxic fumes would be a natural concern.

There is also the problem if the household fuse melts, thus depriving the whole power circuit of pulsating electrons.

 

All in all, it is a far greater desirability if the T2 were not such a potential electrical timebomb awaiting it's demise in an incendiary display of corruscating malevolence.

 

Perhaps, worst of all is that there will no longer be the amplification of sublime dulcet tones and mellifluous melodies for the owner, and others to delight themselves in.

 

Hells Bells!

Just take the lids off the boxes and point a fan at them. (the boxes, not the lids) :p Cool T2 - Problem solved!

post #4519 of 5782

Many people do take the top and bottom skins off the original T2 to help get rid of the heat.

 

Here are the real numbers. 

 

original T2

Amplifier box. 11.7 x 6.3 x 17.2 inches outside dimensions. 1267 cubic inches.  (WHD)

power supply box 8.34 x 5.43 x 16.43 inches outside dimensions 748 cubic inches.

 

inside are 4 x 6ca7 which are 10 watts of filament power each, 10 watts of plate power each

and 10 watts of current source each.  120 watts total. (actually closer to 150 watts with support circuitry)

4 x 6dj8 with 10 watts of filament power total, and 10 watts of current source total.

4 x active batteries at about 7 watts each.

 

total power inside the box about 200 watts.

 

my diy T2 is 16.75 inches deep, 3.05 inches high and 15.75 inches wide, the tubes sit on top of the box

and all the current sources are bolted to external heatsinks with a total surface area of about 600 square

inches of heatsink.

post #4520 of 5782
Quote:
Originally Posted by livewire View Post
 

 

Hells Bells!

Just take the lids off the boxes and point a fan at them. (the boxes, not the lids) :p Cool T2 - Problem solved!

How about a liquid cool?  Oh...never mind!

post #4521 of 5782
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin gilmore View Post
 

Many people do take the top and bottom skins off the original T2 to help get rid of the heat.

 

Here are the real numbers. 

 

original T2

Amplifier box. 11.7 x 6.3 x 17.2 inches outside dimensions. 1267 cubic inches.  (WHD)

power supply box 8.34 x 5.43 x 16.43 inches outside dimensions 748 cubic inches.

 

inside are 4 x 6ca7 which are 10 watts of filament power each, 10 watts of plate power each

and 10 watts of current source each.  120 watts total. (actually closer to 150 watts with support circuitry)

4 x 6dj8 with 10 watts of filament power total, and 10 watts of current source total.

4 x active batteries at about 7 watts each.

 

total power inside the box about 200 watts.

 

my diy T2 is 16.75 inches deep, 3.05 inches high and 15.75 inches wide, the tubes sit on top of the box

and all the current sources are bolted to external heatsinks with a total surface area of about 600 square

inches of heatsink.

have you got pics of that?

post #4522 of 5782

^ I think there are more than enough pictures of both the DIY and the production T2 floating around google images

post #4523 of 5782
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoPants View Post
 

^ I think there are more than enough pictures of both the DIY and the production T2 floating around google images

ok..... they all look the same? 

post #4524 of 5782

All DIYT2's at the moment were cased via a group-buy effort on Kevin's part, he can probably offer more info on that, so they all use the same case yes. A fairly large undertaking from what I can imagine.

post #4525 of 5782

been posted before. starting with these.

The unit I had for 3 weeks was brand new in the box zero hour.

I put 100 hours on it, and it already showed evidence of heat issues.

 

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxt2-1.jpg

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxt2-2.jpg

...

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxt2-45.jpg

 

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis1.jpg

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis2.jpg

...

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis29.jpg


Edited by kevin gilmore - 12/24/13 at 12:22pm
post #4526 of 5782

please tag as NSFW, almost got fired

post #4527 of 5782
Quote:Live wire
 

Hells Bells!

Just take the lids off the boxes and point a fan at them. (the boxes, not the lids) :p Cool T2 - Problem solved!

With all of the Stax earspeakers except the 4070 being open construction, the noise of the fan would impinge on the consciousness and remove

some of the more subtle layering of the information these marvels of electrostatic sonic reproduction can mine from the source material.

It would necessarily remove the prime reason for attaining these eloquent earspeakers.

Why not save a bundle of folderol and opt for a set of Grado SR60's from the start?

post #4528 of 5782
Quote:
Originally Posted by wink View Post

With all of the Stax earspeakers except the 4070 being open construction, the noise of the fan would impinge on the consciousness and remove
some of the more subtle layering of the information these marvels of electrostatic sonic reproduction can mine from the source material.
It would necessarily remove the prime reason for attaining these eloquent earspeakers.
Why not save a bundle of folderol and opt for a set of Grado SR60's from the start?

yeah well there's that.
i was just addressing the overheating issue in a snarky way.
have you ever gazed upon KG's first BH ?
post #4529 of 5782

back to the BHSE build :) i am inspecting silver front panels early on this Christmas day. here is a near perfect one! this is the kind of hand craftsmanship that is hard to find

 

 

HeadAmp Audio Electronics - home of the Pico and Gilmore amps.  Now with Audeze, Fostex, HiFiMAN, Sennheiser, and STAX.
Find us at www.HeadAmp.com

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post #4530 of 5782
Beautiful!
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