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Headamp Blue Hawaii Special Edition - Page 287

post #4291 of 5674
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacedonianHero View Post
 

Heads up...anyone who when to university for electrical engineering from the 1990s and on won't have any knowledge of tubes. They're simply not taught in school as the world has moved beyond tubes (save for die hard audiophiles).

While the world of satellite communications is also shifting to solid state amplifiers, klystrons are still pretty common ;)

post #4292 of 5674
Quote:
Originally Posted by brhfl View Post
 

While the world of satellite communications is also shifting to solid state amplifiers, klystrons are still pretty common ;)

Regardless, not taught in university anymore...which was my point. And that's back from the 1990s...it's now 20 years later. ;)

post #4293 of 5674

Tubes are passe, until the sattelites, power stations, comms sysyems etc are hit with an electro-magnetic pulse from an H-Bomb or solar flare coronal mass discharge hits that turns all the solid state silicon into silicon ash.......

post #4294 of 5674
Quote:
Originally Posted by brhfl View Post

While the world of satellite communications is also shifting to solid state amplifiers, klystrons are still pretty common wink.gif

We use klystrons to generate the rf power needed to accelerate the beam of electrons in a particle accelerator. Tubes are still very much in use here. As well as thyratron tubes for the pulsed magnets
post #4295 of 5674
I've worked on some radar that used some tubes as well, though they weren't of the variety that we've ever talked about
post #4296 of 5674
Quote:
Originally Posted by forbigger View Post
 

folks, newbie question.....what would be the tell tale for a tube thats approaching the end of it's life? I had the amp for 1.5 years and roughly clocked in 1,500 hrs.....maybe its time for new EL34 ??

Hello forbigger

 

Apart from any symptoms that are more or less obvious (and can be misinterpreted), audio tubes like EL34, properly adjusted for bias, heating and so on, should last at least 5,000 hours before their performance fades away. This may vary, of course, according to how the device is used (e.g., turning it on/off during short periods of time isn't recommended). Comparing old tubes' sound with new ones may be misleading too, for new tubes do not sound very well (they need a break-in period, as everyone knows)

post #4297 of 5674
Transistors also caused the disappearance of the slide rule. This device has not been resurrected by baby boomers, and will take a place with the abacus. Hmmm, unlike the slide rule, the abacus is digital, (with digital manipulation no less), maybe there is a place for it in today's world.
post #4298 of 5674

Any spec for the lifetime of tubes has to take into account how the tube is used and how hard it is driven.  I've been using the same set of EL34's in my Blue Hawaii's for the last 10 years and they still measure good.  A lot of that has to do with them only being run at 50% of the max power rating and the old Mullards being bulletproof.  With light use you can expect at least 5-10 years of usage from a set of tubes. 

 

Couple of things, if the filament fails on a EL34 in a Blue Hawaii then the amp should be turned off in an instant and that tube thrown out.  This happened to one of the amps I built and it took out the active cathode load.  Another thing, don't ever use a tube if it indeed looks burnt or if the silver getter has turned white.  The BHSE is a rather expensive tube tester... 

post #4299 of 5674

Thanks for all the enlightenment. Now I'm contended knowing I have at least another 3 good years with the current tubes.......... 

post #4300 of 5674

I juste have some newbie questions :

- exact dimensions of the BHSE (amp and power supply) ?

- price with Alps RK50 (5846 $) ?

- why is the aluminum version different from other versions (shipsupt said something like that) ?

 

Ali

post #4301 of 5674
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubstep Girl View Post

We use klystrons to generate the rf power needed to accelerate the beam of electrons in a particle accelerator. Tubes are still very much in use here. As well as thyratron tubes for the pulsed magnets

Any way of using those klystrons in the BHSE?  Not that I can hear those higher frequencies any more, (maybe Wink can), but damn those would be cool, eh? . . .

 

;)

post #4302 of 5674

Physical Dimensions (in inches):

 

Amp chassis: 15.5" (width) x 12.5" (depth) x 3" (height). Attenuator adds 13/16" to the 12.5" depth and the RCA jacks add 11/16" more. Cone feet add 1 1/2" to the height and the stock Mullard EL34 tubes when installed add 3 3/4" more.

 

PSU chassis: 7 5/8" (width) x 12 3/8" (depth) x 3.5" (height). Cone feet add 1 1/16" to the height.

 

---

 

Price - I'll leave that one for Justin.

 

--

 

My posts that the silver version is somehow sonically superior have been purely in jest. Sorry that the sarcasm is so poorly transmitted via "the net". There is no "silver bullet" unfortunately.

post #4303 of 5674
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali-Pacha View Post
I just have some newbie questions :

- price with Alps RK50 (5846 $) ?

 

Edit: ~$6600 USD, so a small increase over the last time I checked when it was $6500. Prices are on the HeadAmp site here: http://www.headamp.com/order/index.htm


Edited by Asr - 11/18/13 at 3:32pm
post #4304 of 5674

I think the silver is polished aluminum with clear coat, while the colors cover the aluminum itself.  The first batch of front parts he showed us had discoloration within the aluminum, making them not acceptable to Justin, and he had to order different front pieces from better aluminum.  At least as well as I understand it.  I finished a DIY Phono amp kit earlier this year with a "silver" front piece of aluminum, and it is painted/anodized, and less pretty than I was expecting.  It looks fine, don't get me wrong, but I understand where Justin is wanting to position his product, and expectations.  He has had fairly significant issues both the PSU case, and the amp front pieces made to his specs.

 

If you look back through this thread, you can find the pictures that Justin showed.

post #4305 of 5674

the silver panels are polished and clear anodized. a clear coat would probably not work. 

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