New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Opamp thread - Page 297

post #4441 of 4703
Hello Wakibaki,
No argument was on my mind. There are to many threads around the net on different audio forums, about differences among capacitors, resistors, and volume pots, which turned violent. And I do not want to stear the pot. That was not my intention. My reply was more of a question and loud thinking than anything else. Like I said it is very interesting post and I will try to go through it this weekend. I am interested in test of different op-amps by myself. But, as I have noticed the criteria is to find great sounding op-amp. We can only do that within the circuit specifically designed for that part. Otherwise, we can dismiss really good chip based on incorrect implementation. I think it is very important for chips which we use for audio, but they were not designed for this purpose. example.... video chips.
post #4442 of 4703
sorry for double post...
Edited by Foton - 9/13/13 at 6:14pm
post #4443 of 4703
Anyone else tried the Muses 8820 (Bipolar) or 8920 (J-fet)?

I was gifted a 8820 by a friend but only just got around to trying it in my P4. Very nice OpAmp, I've ordered a few of each to try in other stuff.
post #4444 of 4703
Quote:
Originally Posted by razzz42 View Post

This time around, was listening to Track Title : Lo Que Yo Más Quiero by Son By Four (2001)

 

Using AD-700 headphones and my old standard Prodigy HD2 (for testing),  with all empty sockets, the sounds are distant. With the stock OPA 2604AP and buffer/output empty, the sound is tinny in the highs, favors some lows, not very realistic (crap). Adding L49990MA in the output, it enhances whatever the 2604 sends it and brings all the sounds forward with a bit of detail resulting in higher quality crap sounds.

Tried the AD797BR with the output empty, favors the lows and mids, some very high end missing but clean detailed sounds throughout. Adding the L49990MA in the output, takes and clarifies the entire range and bring all sound forwards. Good clean fun.

Tried the NE5532N with the output empty. Clear and clean with no artificial enhancements, making all sounds equal across the ranges. Added the L49990MA in the output and resulted in excellent sounds. The entire range sounded true with clear highlights, good separation and clarity. Highs were crisp. Lows and mids were true. Lows did not outright pound but sound cleannonetheless.

I could easily live with NE5532N(s) and the L49990MA in the output socket. Rivals all my past configurations when considering all around realistic sounds. Very enjoyable.

The tried and true NE5532N are only a couple bucks anymore. If you can only afford (1) adapter board with the two L49990MA on it then I would use it in the output along with your favorite op-amps  in the  I/V sockets.

Your mileage may vary.

Your welcome.

 

(I will note that I couldn't get (3) adapted L49990MA to work on the card at once in all three sockets, not sure why but doesn't seem to be necessary.)

Can you guys explain to me what I just read, and what razzz42 did? I ordered a little dot 1+ and I want to get the best sound out of it possible.

When referring to OP amps, what is exactly is the buffer, output, and I/V?

 

I will give you an examples from the quote of what I do not understand.

 

"Tried the AD797BR with the output empty.... Adding the L49990MA in the output" - What did he just do?

And again, what is an I/V socket

Photos/pictures would help a lot too.

post #4445 of 4703
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sony Slave View Post
 

Can you guys explain to me what I just read, and what razzz42 did? I ordered a little dot 1+ and I want to get the best sound out of it possible.

When referring to OP amps, what is exactly is the buffer, output, and I/V?

 

I will give you an examples from the quote of what I do not understand.

 

"Tried the AD797BR with the output empty.... Adding the L49990MA in the output" - What did he just do?

And again, what is an I/V socket

Photos/pictures would help a lot too.

 

To roll op amps in a Little Dot 1+, you do not have to worry about "buffers", "output", "I/V" and so forth. You simply pry out the old op amp and install the new one, assuming that you have purchased two of these single op amps pre-installed on a DIP8 adapter
 

post #4446 of 4703
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

To roll op amps in a Little Dot 1+, you do not have to worry about "buffers", "output", "I/V" and so forth. You simply pry out the old op amp and install the new one, assuming that you have purchased two of these single op amps pre-installed on a DIP8 adapter
 

 

I have the DIP8 adapter and OP amps, any idea on how to install them? I never opened my package of my op amps because of their sensitivity to static electricity. 

post #4447 of 4703
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sony Slave View Post
 

 

I have the DIP8 adapter and OP amps, any idea on how to install them? I never opened my package of my op amps because of their sensitivity to static electricity. 

 

Remove the original op amp. I just used a little screw driver, but if you are squeamish, you might want to purchase an op amp removal tool. Check the notch or mark on the op-amp adapter and make sure it lines up with the mark on the socket, and simply push it in. I am relatively inexperienced, having done this only a few times, but I have not found static electricity to be a problem. If others with more experience than I wish to add anything more, please feel free. :)

post #4448 of 4703

I guess this is what you have, dead center is the replaceable op-amp, only one for you. Treat it like a changeable output/buffer op-amp which limits the selection of op-amps to buy and try.

After you pry the op-amp out (and bend the legs, you can straighten them out and realign them with small pliers later) you will see the socket with a notch on one end (green arrow) as shown on my sound card with  2 empty sockets and 1 filled.

 

 

 


Find the mark on your op-amp or adapter and plug it into the socket, aligned with the socket's mark (half moon) side. That's it. Never had a problem with static. You can buy a grounding strap that hooks to your wrist if necessary. Ebay has a cheap $5 op-amp removal tool, better than nothing. Take your time prying up and out the legs evenly but the op-amps are tough.

post #4449 of 4703
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpudHarris View Post

Anyone else tried the Muses 8820 (Bipolar) or 8920 (J-fet)?

I was gifted a 8820 by a friend but only just got around to trying it in my P4. Very nice OpAmp, I've ordered a few of each to try in other stuff.

You guys have to give the 8820 an audition. I have had it in my Fi-quest for a week or so and I think it is fantastic. Balanced yet exciting, nothing is missing. I can't wait to try the 8920.....
post #4450 of 4703

If you like 8820, then you really ought to try MUSES02.

post #4451 of 4703
Thanks ClieOS, I do indeed love the 8820. I have it in my MST Fi-Quest and am favouring it over my Icon HP8 with HD800's at the moment. Of course the Fi-Quest is a fine amp anyway but man it shines with the 8820. Ryuzoh (MST) gifted me with the 8820 when he sent my amp back after the last update.

How does the 02 differ?
post #4452 of 4703

Think of 8820 with better texture, wider soundstage and overall higher resolution, and that will be how the 02 sounds like. 8920 on the other hand sounds more like the 01 step down. 01 will require higher voltage (+/-9V min) but it is usually better sounding than 02 in the same circuit, otherwise 02 has the advantage on lower voltage circuit. These are all seriously good sounding opamp.

post #4453 of 4703
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
 

Think of 8820 with better texture, wider soundstage and overall higher resolution, and that will be how the 02 sounds like. 8920 on the other hand sounds more like the 01 step down. 01 will require higher voltage (+/-9V min) but it is usually better sounding than 02 in the same circuit, otherwise 02 has the advantage on lower voltage circuit. These are all seriously good sounding opamp.

 

I currently have a pair of LME49990 (DIP8 adapter) in my Little Dot 1+. Can I assume that I could also roll the 8820 and MUSES02? And if so, do you think that either or both of these would be an improvement over the LME49990?

post #4454 of 4703
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

I currently have a pair of LME49990 (DIP8 adapter) in my Little Dot 1+. Can I assume that I could also roll the 8820 and MUSES02? And if so, do you think that either or both of these would be an improvement over the LME49990?

 

Well, LME49990 runs up to +/-18V while both 8820 and MUSES02 are only up to +/-16V. The only way to be sure is to measure the +V / -V on the LD1+'s DIP socket to make sure it is not over +/-16V. If the voltage is compatible, I'll suggest skipping the 8820 and go straight for the MUSES02. While 8820 is a good sounding opamp, I don't find it to be nearly as great as the 02.

post #4455 of 4703
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
 

 

Well, LME49990 runs up to +/-18V while both 8820 and MUSES02 are only up to +/-16V. The only way to be sure is to measure the +V / -V on the LD1+'s DIP socket to make sure it is not over +/-16V. If the voltage is compatible, I'll suggest skipping the 8820 and go straight for the MUSES02. While 8820 is a good sounding opamp, I don't find it to be nearly as great as the 02.

 

Thanks for your very good advice and I will definitely check out the voltage. I really like the LME49990, but if the MUSES02 is as good or better, I am anxious to give it a try.

 

Cheers

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home