You usually want to replace FETs with FETs. Bipolars may work, too, if the input resistors to each channel are very closely matched, as far as I know. Otherwise, you can get massive DC offset at the output of the amp or DAC you are using it in.
1364 has way too much speed anyway, so it would be better to go with opamps that will run more stable and hence sound better such as OPA2209, OPA1652, ADA4610-2B, etc. AD8599 and OPA1612 aren't terribly finicky chips and sound stupendous.
Well, it all depends on how you use them.
I'm having loads more fun these days:
Bad choices would be like ADA4627-1B, AD797, LT1364, ISL55001, and other opamps with huge bandwidth and lots of slew rate. They are potentially awesome, I think, but not suited for "blind-rolling", which is all we discuss here, lol. It's easier, and cheaper, to get OPA827, OPA1641, OPA602, and the ones I mentioned before to sound better. Audio-gd opamps, too, are pretty well-behaved. Their stock MKT caps kind of suck (little grey boxes on the sides of the opamp module), better to substitute those caps with ceramics and tantalums for far better sound or Russian K42-Y2 PIO caps. And all of these cap upgrades are generally pretty inexpensive, best of all.
I made a new OPA1611 module with grounded bypassing using MKP1840 caps - good-bye treble peaks, soundstage boxiness, and upper mids funkiness that I would get before. Now much improved, but still kind of warm. I should probably switch to MKP1837.