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Bang for the Buck: PC Audio Setup

post #1 of 17
7/1/09 at 9:18pm
Thread Starter 
I've been wanting to get new bookshelves+amp for my computer rig, a 2.0/2.1 setup, primarily for music, some audio editing (Finale), and a few movies...Listen mostly to orchestral film soundtracks (i.e. Dark Knight/Transformers), classical music (i.e. violin concertos/string quartets), and a bit of light alternative rock/pop/female vocals with guitar. So a lot of acoustic music. The Logitech 5.1 system I have just doesn't do justice...I'm relegating it to gaming duties...

I have considered active bookshelves, but feel like I can do more on the upgrade path if i go passive + amp. Had really considered Audioengine A5/M-Audio AV40...I think I'd get overall better sound with some passive+amp, since my budget allows...

My budget is $500, preferably spending less as possible (so I can buy other things...like K702s...)

Heard good things about the Energy line-up, especially the RC-10...
Pretty much, what are the best bookshelves around ~$300?...

Looking around, and found the Nuforce Icon Amp/DAC, relatively new...
(Nuforce Stereophile Review)... heard good things about it.
Could pick up for ~$199...unless there's a better amp out there under $200...

suggestions and thanks!
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post #2 of 17
7/1/09 at 11:55pm
Normally I recommend spending about 1/2 on your amp as your speakers, but if the budget is $500, I'd splurge on the amp as you are less likely to upgrade it.

So far, I have been loving my yamaha RX-797. They are in the process of being phased out (last of the orange displays from Yamaha, I think). I had a Harmon/Kardon HK-3490 that had more power on paper but sounded thin. The Yammie doesn't sound warm, but bass has weight and depth to it, and it really is worth it.

You can find them for $300-350 ish - there are tons of bookshelves around for your remaining $150, you can probably get good mileage used on craigslist, too.

Actually, you can probably do well on the amp front used, too.
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post #3 of 17
7/2/09 at 4:20pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ph0rk View Post
Normally I recommend spending about 1/2 on your amp as your speakers, but if the budget is $500, I'd splurge on the amp as you are less likely to upgrade it.

So far, I have been loving my yamaha RX-797. They are in the process of being phased out (last of the orange displays from Yamaha, I think). I had a Harmon/Kardon HK-3490 that had more power on paper but sounded thin. The Yammie doesn't sound warm, but bass has weight and depth to it, and it really is worth it.

You can find them for $300-350 ish - there are tons of bookshelves around for your remaining $150, you can probably get good mileage used on craigslist, too.

Actually, you can probably do well on the amp front used, too.
Yeah, was looking at HK receivers....looks like it's ~ $290 on Amazon.
Problem is, it looks huge, and I don't have much space around the computer...I know HKs are rather understated wattage-wise on paper...I hope it's not as half as big as my Onkyo 805...now that's scary (60lbs).

The Nuforce is pretty small (9.5" x 6")..also d-class means it won't get hot.

Anyone have suggestions on amp/speakers? Anyone here own Nuforce Icon or Energy RC-10?
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post #4 of 17
7/2/09 at 4:34pm
You might also have a look at the EPOS ELS-3 on the speaker side.

Although I wouldn't be quite so quick to dismiss powered monitors. The A5s are a bargain for $350. Take the leftover $150 and put it into a dedicated DAC -- like a Gamma 1 -- if you are currently using a sound card.

Just my two cents. Have fun.
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post #5 of 17
7/2/09 at 6:45pm
I've listened to the Nuforce Icon setup, and though I love Nuforce products (have the Icon Mobile, NE-7M and the W-1 subwoofer) I wasn't that thrilled when compared to my current Audioengine A2 + Nuforce W-1 setup.

The Icon amp will get hot, very hot. It's DAC is max 16/48

The S-1 have tremendously good resolution and detail, but they produce a rather narrow sound field ( move your head slightly of center and the sound will suffer). And don't even think about getting the S-1 satellites without the W-1 subwoofer as the satellites have absolutely no bass what so ever.

Having said that, I can see myself walking down to the store getting the complete Icon setup in the near future... as they look so damn cool! I'm a sucker, I now...
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post #6 of 17
7/2/09 at 6:56pm
Well, you can try the following than upgrade to an ampl,
trash the 5 logitech speakers, but keep the woofer,
than go for 4bookshelves speakers, you can even use different brands, search around the house, every house has some old bookshelves(they would be better than any active you`ll buy), and a central speaker,
connect them to the logitech woofer, than to the pc and vuala..
I have 2B&W series60, and 2 ILane connected to a cheap Creative sub, and believe me in movies or games you dont care that much, though you need better for stereo music,
by the way, if you gonna use only 2 speakers, why going for HK or Yamaha, you just need a good stereo ampl.
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post #7 of 17
7/3/09 at 2:55am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonci View Post
Well, you can try the following than upgrade to an ampl,
trash the 5 logitech speakers, but keep the woofer,
than go for 4bookshelves speakers, you can even use different brands, search around the house, every house has some old bookshelves(they would be better than any active you`ll buy), and a central speaker,
connect them to the logitech woofer, than to the pc and vuala..
I have 2B&W series60, and 2 ILane connected to a cheap Creative sub, and believe me in movies or games you dont care that much, though you need better for stereo music,
by the way, if you gonna use only 2 speakers, why going for HK or Yamaha, you just need a good stereo ampl.
I don't think you can connect any other speakers to the Logitech sub (proprietary connection)...plus it's a bandpass 6.5"...not exactly good...
I don't have any old bookshelves...and this is for my 2-ch music rig. I'm keeping the logitech 5.1 for gaming...

@ Kobra: I'm not getting the Nuforce speakers. Just the Icon Amp itself.
What does the DAC have to do with the temperature? It's a D-class amp..
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post #8 of 17
7/3/09 at 3:59am
I just sold and replaced my Logi Z5300 system. I had my Z5300 system for years and enjoyed it. I was wanting to upgrade computer audio. First I got a pioneer home theatre reciever that was on close out, then I had to get a new sound card because the reciever needed up to date input from the optical on the soundcard. Or something like that.
Old system was :
Philips Aurelium>Z5300 5.1 speakers
New system:
Xfi USB SB1090 > Pioneer 2920 reciever with 5.1 speakers.

The new set-up is better for music. i agree with you wanting to keep the Logi's though you might want to think about upgraded speakers. I wish i thought of that before i sold mine. Home audio seemed to have better choices with better specs in terms of 5.1 audio than what's offered for computer use. I was fully intending to get a Z5500 when it was pointed out to me a number of competing products.
As much as I liked the z5300s, they didn't do music very well, and hence the reason for the upgrade.
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post #9 of 17
7/3/09 at 4:17am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moontan13 View Post
I just sold and replaced my Logi Z5300 system. I had my Z5300 system for years and enjoyed it. I was wanting to upgrade computer audio. First I got a pioneer home theatre reciever that was on close out, then I had to get a new sound card because the reciever needed up to date input from the optical on the soundcard. Or something like that.
Old system was :
Philips Aurelium>Z5300 5.1 speakers
New system:
Xfi USB SB1090 > Pioneer 2920 reciever with 5.1 speakers.

The new set-up is better for music. i agree with you wanting to keep the Logi's though you might want to think about upgraded speakers. I wish i thought of that before i sold mine. Home audio seemed to have better choices with better specs in terms of 5.1 audio than what's offered for computer use. I was fully intending to get a Z5500 when it was pointed out to me a number of competing products.
As much as I liked the z5300s, they didn't do music very well, and hence the reason for the upgrade.
The thing is, I'm not keeping the Z-5300e for music. I'm keeping them for directional gaming. Plus, I've had my share of HTIBs, wanting an individual system now..are you sure 5.1 audio is "better specs" than 2-ch for music?
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post #10 of 17
7/6/09 at 8:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeusEx View Post
@ Kobra: I'm not getting the Nuforce speakers. Just the Icon Amp itself. What does the DAC have to do with the temperature? It's a D-class amp..
I don't really understand what you mean by this I was just answering your earlier post in wich you said it wouldn't become hot as it's a class D. Well, when I gave it a spin it was almost to hot to touch... I'm not saying it's a bad am/dac - on the contrary! It's a wonderful little bastard, I just wanted you to know that it do get hot when used...
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post #11 of 17
7/6/09 at 8:32pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kobra View Post
The Icon amp will get hot, very hot. It's DAC is max 16/48

lol.....thought you were relating them because you put the DAC part right after the heat mention...I was like...DAC doesn't really have anything to do with temps...

I was under the impression class-D amps were much cooler than conventional A/AB amps...did you turn it on for like 24/7?

P.S. If I listen to FLAC, is the DAC enough? is flac in 96?? I'm a complete noob in digital signals..sorry


EDIT: About to buy the Energys...last comments!
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post #12 of 17
7/7/09 at 10:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeusEx View Post

P.S. If I listen to FLAC, is the DAC enough? is flac in 96?? I'm a complete noob in digital signals..sorry
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the DAC needs to be able to handle the source resolution and sampling frequency. So it depends on what kind of FLAC files you run. Normally I believe CD stuff is 16 bit @ 44.1Khz or 48Khz, where as you can find rips online @ 24/96 or even higher
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post #13 of 17
7/7/09 at 2:27pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ABathingApe View Post
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the DAC needs to be able to handle the source resolution and sampling frequency. So it depends on what kind of FLAC files you run. Normally I believe CD stuff is 16 bit @ 44.1Khz or 48Khz, where as you can find rips online @ 24/96 or even higher

Really need to get this clear....
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post #14 of 17
7/7/09 at 2:39pm
The bitrate of a FLAC can be just about anything, the 16/44, 24/96 and others are not specific to FLAC. Any FLAC that's been ripped of a regular CD is 16/44 as it follows the "Redbook" standard. There's some online music stores in wich you can buy and download higher rez FLAC's. Those files are a conversion of the original studio recording "raw data", I regularly buy 24/96 FLAC's from "HD-Tracks", "Naim Label", "Linn Records" and "Society of Sound".

Regarding the heat of the Icon; I don't own the amp/dac - I just auditioned it at a local store for a few hours. The Icon that I tested were new and the store owner broke the box just for me. I also had the impression that a class D amp would feel cold to the touch. After about three hours of listening the Icon was all but cold... though it sounded great! Or rather, it didn't have a particular "sound" as it's a very transparent amp
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post #15 of 17
7/7/09 at 8:33pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks.

Also, how would Focal Chorus 706V compare to the Energy RC-10? For roughly same price
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