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The Single Power ES-1/2 repair and restoration thread - Page 8

post #106 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by neilvg View Post
For some reason or another, after seeing Spritzers posts/pics, I feel both impressed, happy, and sad.


Neil
That just about sums up my feelings too. Mostly though I am impressed at the fantastic cosmetic changes and astounded at the technical transformation that Birgir has wrought. A BHSE it may not be but I bet it would show the standard Stax amps a clean pair of heals.
post #107 of 157
Thread Starter 
It's indeed no BHSE but it should be more then comparable with the Woo WES (if a bit different) and show the other "high end" amps just how inferior they really are. In the end one must pick what kind of sound you are after, the BHSE/T2 offer us stark reality though it is never forced like with so many "neutral" components. What you have is just a very linear amp with enough power to swing voltage into any impedance presented by the transducers. With the ES-X (and the Woo WES) you are dealing with the limitations of vintage tube design. A plate resistor will never be as effective as a constant current source in dealing with the wild impedance swings of the transducers but the amps make up for it by being able to swing a lot of volts, far above what we truly need.

As for the Stax amps, they are built on a shoestring budget and all of them are DC coupled so there is a difference in presentation. The 007t is an easy target but the 717 would be tougher to beat if not just for the fact that is is less than 1/6th the size of the ES-1. That said this is after all a Stax amp on steroids so a similar take on the SRM-007t might sound pretty nice...
post #108 of 157
My amp is sitting off to the side for now, I'm using the HEV90. I find that after I keep it on for a while it sounds pretty OK. One day I'll have to figure out how to salvage the ES Monster.

Neil
post #109 of 157
Thread Starter 
You could put in something like Kerry's Blue Hawaii PSU and move on to AC filaments. That takes care of the PSU but the amp section is harder to fix. You could keep the PCB but it requires a bit of modding to get it right but given the huge size of the chassis, you might just as well rebuild the amp, point-to-point. Personally I'd scrap all the parts on the amp PCB, sell the AN silver caps and just start from the beginning. It's not as bad as it sounds, about 300$ for very good parts. I'd also replace the 4 50W resistors (the golden ones) with the ones I used which are Mills non inductive.
post #110 of 157
Thing is I have no idea how to do this, and unless someone wants to help me (for a fee), I don't know who to go to.

Neil
post #111 of 157
Thread Starter 
That is indeed the problem but have you talked to Wayne from Bolder Cables? The schematics are all available and it shouldn't be too hard for him to turn the amp back into something useful.
post #112 of 157
Neil, definitely give Wayne a call or email him. He's a bit busy right now, but he does great work, is responsive, and stands behind his work. He has my ES-1's right now working through the schematics to get them corrected and working per Dr. Gilmore's recommendation.
post #113 of 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by shokunin View Post
Neil, definitely give Wayne a call or email him. He's a bit busy right now, but he does great work, is responsive, and stands behind his work. He has my ES-1's right now working through the schematics to get them corrected and working per Dr. Gilmore's recommendation.
Hey, I thought your ES-1 wasn't having any issues yet. You just sent it in before problems arise?
post #114 of 157
Hey Jon,

While they worked, I'm having Wayne correct and upgrade the amp as it should have been in the first place. Heck one of my power supplies was only half working as Mikhail only wired one regulator, while there are two in there, only one was used. Yeah, go figure...

I rather get them fixed before they blew up and before they burn out ANOTHER set of NOS Mullards or Treasure EL34's, 5751's etc.

Glenn
post #115 of 157
Thread Starter 
Even if the amps work they will chew up tubes so at least sorting out the filament supply is a good idea. A real bias supply is also a good idea (the stock amps are far off spec) and adding the C- supply plus the extra adjustment to the first stage is well worth it and quite cheap in terms of parts used.
post #116 of 157
Kudos to spritzer's epic effort and Mr. Gilmore's insight!


Man I can't believe so many head-fiers got riped off by such shady practice. Just a couple of years ago I thought Single Power is the best headphone amp vendor in the world! This is really sad.
post #117 of 157
Thread Starter 
I updated the third post of this thread today with the final installment of this saga.
post #118 of 157
Glad I've opted to get an Aristaeus instead...
post #119 of 157
Thread Starter 
Wise choice indeed. It does sound pretty good now with an all tube signal path (ECC99 with transformer output in my APL3910) but stock it was very much a let down.
post #120 of 157
That looks awesome. Great work. It's nice to see this come to a happy ending of sorts.
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