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Premium Grade solder? - Page 4

post #46 of 57
12/3/09 at 11:07am
Cardas quad is the way to go for boardwork. It melts and reflows very easily, I build most cables with it. You'd have to be a masochist to want to use Mundorf for much more than plug terminations, it takes an insane amount of heat to melt it. It smells cool, though.
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post #47 of 57
12/3/09 at 5:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by igor0203 View Post
I totally agree with you. But if you're building amplifier with expensive parts, why not solder with silver.
Because it costs more. I'd rather upgrade something in the amp. Hell, I'd rather use a fancier volume knob or something than silver solder.
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post #48 of 57
12/4/09 at 1:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Erik View Post
The point of solder is to make a strong physical joint. 60/40 does that, flows better than any of the "specialty" solders, and you never get cold joints, tin whiskers, or other problems. I've found silver based solders not to flow or stick particularly well, so I've gone back to 60/40. Usually Kester, but Radio Shack is very good, as well.
i noticed that as well.
i used my father's 60/40 and didn't have cold joints.
i bought some 63/37 the other day and had some cold joints
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post #49 of 57
12/4/09 at 3:56am
60/40 may flow better but if heated properly a eutectic solder should result in better joints when hand soldering (ie when there is some movement of components as the solder cools).
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post #50 of 57
12/4/09 at 3:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chesterqw View Post
i noticed that as well.
i used my father's 60/40 and didn't have cold joints.
i bought some 63/37 the other day and had some cold joints
Cold joints are usually a sign of over heating or lack of flux. (or burning off he flux through overheating). The type, amount, and proper usage of flux make a big difference.
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post #51 of 57
12/7/09 at 7:45am
Solder falls into the realm of voodoo science. Pick what works best for you, what you like the smell of or whatever, but if it costs more you're probably overpaying for aesthetic rather than important per function, reasons. Regular 60/40 and 63/37 low cost solder is not hard to use and most people do not hear any audible difference but as Brian Donegan pointed out, the amount and type of flux can vary some so pick based on what you're soldering.
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post #52 of 57
12/7/09 at 8:50am
OT of solder type, but a good guide for good and bad things in soldering:

THROUGH-HOLE SOLDERING GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

Note that NASA considers gold in a solder joint to be a contaminant.
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post #53 of 57
12/7/09 at 12:01pm
i got some cardas solder and they are really nice to work with
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post #54 of 57
12/7/09 at 1:42pm
Thread Starter 
Cardas Quad Eucetic is my favorite.
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post #55 of 57
12/7/09 at 4:19pm
Did anybody work with WBT lead and lead-free solder? Do they both flow equally?
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post #56 of 57
12/7/09 at 11:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianDonegan View Post
OT of solder type, but a good guide for good and bad things in soldering:

THROUGH-HOLE SOLDERING GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

Note that NASA considers gold in a solder joint to be a contaminant.
It is interesting that Gold Plating is considered bad as well:

Quote:
UNACCEPTABLE

GOLD PLATING

Gold plated surfaces that will become part of the finished solder connection shall be tinned prior to soldering to remove the gold plating.

NASA-STD-8739.3 [7.2.5.c],[13.6.2.a.3]
So every gold plated board would fail their tests...
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post #57 of 57
12/8/09 at 12:11am
i think because the gold is plated :x

well, i don't think any sane human will go for solid gold pins :x

at least gold plated contacts are still good^^
just not for solder joints.
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