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Home-Made IEMs - Page 4

post #46 of 1533
6/28/09 at 9:18pm
RIP
So young, so much promise, in their prime so to speak.

Did you use separate flux? If not I think it would make it easier to make these sensitive solder joints.
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post #47 of 1533
6/28/09 at 10:02pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by elliot42 View Post
An unfortunate accident... they shall be remembered.
Soldiers in the cause. Their replacements are on the way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Billyk View Post
RIP. So young, so much promise, in their prime so to speak. Did you use separate flux? If not I think it would make it easier to make these sensitive solder joints.
I didn't use separate flux or even a decent soldering iron (Thank you, Radio Shack). I committed $76 worth of freshman mistakes, forgetting that soldering has to be practiced, and executed with care. Fortunately, things went better with the other two, so I now have one ear of a triple-driver IEM. While I wait for the other drivers to arrive, I'm going to shift focus to wiring and molding.

I've got two ways I can go with the cables. There are two strategies for using detachable cables. One is to simply go with a right angle 2.5mm jack/plug. They're fairly inexpensive and the use of it in this fashion creates a nice swivel. The other is to do the two-prong thing, ready for a high-end replacement cable. I like this latter approach because it leaves the smallest footprint. The problem is that it's harder to find a two-prong female receptor that fits.
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post #48 of 1533
6/28/09 at 11:27pm
And now a prayer for the fallen...
LL
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post #49 of 1533
6/28/09 at 11:55pm
We pour out liquor for our fallen comrades...
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post #50 of 1533
6/29/09 at 12:44pm
Are you using a standard tip? You might consider purchasing a microtip to work with such small drivers.
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post #51 of 1533
6/29/09 at 1:12pm
Hi Bill, is there a possibility of taking SUPER UBER ULTRA close up shots of the soldering pad? I would actually suggest using SMT soldering techniques, no microtip needed. I would recommend a good tip for smt soldering + Low melting point solder. and possibly use the same guage wire as they do for tone arms.
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post #52 of 1533
6/29/09 at 3:10pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdupiano View Post
Hi Bill, is there a possibility of taking SUPER UBER ULTRA close up shots of the soldering pad? I would actually suggest using SMT soldering techniques, no microtip needed. I would recommend a good tip for smt soldering + Low melting point solder. and possibly use the same guage wire as they do for tone arms.
Now that I have better magnification, I should be able to provide better close-up shots. Thanks for the tips, no pun intended. That could make all the difference when I make the next run.
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post #53 of 1533
6/29/09 at 4:28pm
SMT technique definitely. Lots of flux, a little dab of solder on the end of the iron tip and then just touch it to the joint and viola!
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post #54 of 1533
6/29/09 at 6:55pm
I was always wondering how JH audio got to fit 6 drivers into their new IEM.

Anyways, a great thread! I hope it goes well.
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post #55 of 1533
6/29/09 at 7:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by younglee200 View Post
I was always wondering how JH audio got to fit 6 drivers into their new IEM.

Anyways, a great thread! I hope it goes well.
I wonder if they use some sort of "breakout board"
I have seen it before in other in-ears where the crossover circuit is made using an IC of some sort (or even just resistors and caps) on a tiny circuit board and then have the drivers in a right-angle configuration on a solder pad. So if that's how JH did it, you could "tie" the drivers together based on configurations like:


Code:
                        -------- 2 tweeters on same solder pad
source -> crossover --| -------- 2 mids on same pad
                        -------- 2 lows on same pad
I don't know their combination of drivers but you get the idea
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post #56 of 1533
7/1/09 at 1:11am
Thread Starter 
One of the unexpected benefits of the recent soldering disaster is the discovery of a worthy source of drivers: Newark. It turns out that, on the TWFK, Newark has the item back-ordered but charges $16 less per driver than Mouser. A $32 savings in costs of materials is nothing to sneeze at. Go, Newark!

I've also run across a rival to Knowles Acoustics: Star Micronics, maker of the RBB-O4A/O4B/O4C/O4D/O4F-PS drivers. Of these, the B,D and F series look like the best matches for hi-fi audio, with impedences of 33 for the B and F, and 15.5 for the D. But the proof is always in the pudding. Has anybody heard any of these drivers? Only the C and F actually have "spouts." I'm not sure they're an actual improvement over KA so, for now, I'll probably stick with Knowles Acoustics.

UPDATE 7/1/09

The replacement parts have arrived. Time to get back to work.
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post #57 of 1533
7/1/09 at 9:39pm
This is gonna get good. Hope it works out for you. Especially a triple driver design for ~$100
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post #58 of 1533
7/1/09 at 11:56pm
Thread Starter 
NEW ISSUE HEADPHONE CABLE

I'm looking for the best reasonably-priced solution to the cable question. Does anybody have any suggestions about where to go to get the best bang-for-the-buck in replacement cable so the earphone wires look professional?
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post #59 of 1533
7/2/09 at 1:10am
you could try some of that teflon cable i see floating around ebay... they sell coils of it in whichever colour you want..
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post #60 of 1533
7/2/09 at 1:32am
Westone cable is expensive but very nice.
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