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Home-Made IEMs - Page 293

post #4381 of 4786

Hi guys, unsure if this is the right place to post this. Does anyone know where to buy cheap dynamic IEM drivers that don't have an abyssmal frequency range/graph? I'm a poor student but I want to learn electrical/audio stuff, so hopefully I can find some drivers that are around $2.50?

post #4382 of 4786
Quote:
Originally Posted by omgflyingbanana View Post
 

Hi guys, unsure if this is the right place to post this. Does anyone know where to buy cheap dynamic IEM drivers that don't have an abyssmal frequency range/graph? I'm a poor student but I want to learn electrical/audio stuff, so hopefully I can find some drivers that are around $2.50?

You could try on aliexpress and ask the seller if he have graph or what is more suited for neutral frequency vs bass boosted etc..

post #4383 of 4786

Anyone can tell me please the correct polarity of these drivers?

 

post #4384 of 4786
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForceMajeure View Post
 

Anyone can tell me please the correct polarity of these drivers?

 

In case of 2389 the right side is + and left is -

 

In the case of 33AJ007i/9 position of the driver doesn't matter as the right pad will always be + -> left "?" is negative and right "?" is positive on your pics.


Edited by piotrus-g - 2/7/16 at 4:42am
post #4385 of 4786
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormyrocks View Post
 

Yep, I've seen that and it's super useful, but I'm curious about how all those drivers are getting crossed over (especially the 4-6 driver assemblies in the last section). Are they all just connected in parallel and filtered with dampers?

 

Edit: also, I just had the idea to do faceplates by buying a pack of exotic veneer samples, CNC'ing a logo, and then inlaying it with turquoise. I posit that it would be quite inexpensive and look amazing. Has anyone done something similar?

Update: we're finished! http://imgur.com/a/rjuzN

 

Turquoise inlays look quite good.

 

Now that our first pair is finally done, I feel like I should share the single most useful component in the build process: Bondic.

 

http://notaglue.com/

 

This stuff will change your life. You can use it for building up the body of the IEM, bonding shell to faceplate, covering imperfections, fixing drivers and connectors in place, coating tubes, insulating wires, filling cracks, making inlays, and more - and it cures in seconds instead of minutes, despite being essentially the same stuff as the shell acrylic. We *never* used epoxy for the entirety of our build process. It's a f'in lifesaver. Buy it now, ask questions later.

 

I hope I'm not breaking any rules by plugging this; I promise I'm not a paid shill despite the "as seen on TV" nature of the product. You could probably get it much cheaper under a different brand name (search for "UV acrylic").


Edited by wormyrocks - 2/7/16 at 10:18pm
post #4386 of 4786

The crack on my Jh13Pro got wider and wider, sound because softer and muddy. Decided to pop open the faceplate today. 

 

 

Silicon is used to keep everything in place.

The DFK  has the longest tube, curl and hidden under the 3300 and DTEC.

Only one SMD visible, seems like capacitor.

3300 is wired serial, use a green damper which is really close to the receiver.

 

 

post #4387 of 4786
Quote:
Originally Posted by piotrus-g View Post
 

In case of 2389 the right side is + and left is -

 

In the case of 33AJ007i/9 position of the driver doesn't matter as the right pad will always be + -> left "?" is negative and right "?" is positive on your pics.

Thanks, you are right for the 33AJ007i/9 no matter how I turn it it will alawys be the same. I think you confused the answer for the 33AJ007i/9. The "left ?" is positive and the "right ?" is negative. 

 

 

Now, I measured the 33AJ007i/9, once in parallel and once in series and I don't get it. Why is the series outpouting more bass than the parallel.

blue is in parallel, red in series 

 

 

 

this is how I wired the parallel 

this is how I wired in series

 

 

 

in this picture I measured the same driver (in green) but just connected the green and red wire to one side with no interconnection for series or parallel.

I got lower output around 1khz but the bass was similar to the driver connected in parallel

 

 

Is this how it is supposed to be?

I used the same length tube for all measurement and no dampers or resistors/caps.


Edited by ForceMajeure - 2/9/16 at 2:33am
post #4388 of 4786
Quote:
Originally Posted by s1190 View Post
 

The crack on my Jh13Pro got wider and wider, sound because softer and muddy. Decided to pop open the faceplate today. 

 

 

Silicon is used to keep everything in place.

The DFK  has the longest tube, curl and hidden under the 3300 and DTEC.

Only one SMD visible, seems like capacitor.

3300 is wired serial, use a green damper which is really close to the receiver.

 

 

 

 

Excellent! If you ever disassemble it even more , please do post more images. I'm very curious.

 

It also seems freqphase is just tube length adoption.

post #4389 of 4786

That's exactly what freqphase is. What I don't understand is how it could be patented. Making a tube longer. Surely its experimentation of the user. If another company took the idea, but had different tube lengths to the ones specified in freqphase, would it still be a patent infringement?

 

Of course I'm referring to a professional product, not a DIY type thing.

post #4390 of 4786
Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioJunki3 View Post

That's exactly what freqphase is. What I don't understand is how it could be patented. Making a tube longer. Surely its experimentation of the user. If another company took the idea, but had different tube lengths to the ones specified in freqphase, would it still be a patent infringement?

Of course I'm referring to a professional product, not a DIY type thing.

It may be simple but the Research and Development behind it must have been extensive. It's not only the tube length but driver tuning. Different frequencies travel at different speeds and in order for all of the different frequencies from the different drivers to escape the sound tube at the exact same phase must have been very difficult to obtain. I think it's an amazing feature and one I hope to own in the future
post #4391 of 4786
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raddiqal11 View Post


It may be simple but the Research and Development behind it must have been extensive. It's not only the tube length but driver tuning. Different frequencies travel at different speeds and in order for all of the different frequencies from the different drivers to escape the sound tube at the exact same phase must have been very difficult to obtain. I think it's an amazing feature and one I hope to own in the future

Oh I'm not doubting that it wasn't difficult. I work in R&D and I know exactly how hard a simple thing can be sometimes.

 

My real question was, Is it really a patent on the lengths of the tubes. Or the idea that different tube lengths are the way to correct phase.

post #4392 of 4786

You can read the patent and interpret for your self. You know how patent lawyers work.

post #4393 of 4786
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForceMajeure View Post
 

Thanks, you are right for the 33AJ007i/9 no matter how I turn it it will alawys be the same. I think you confused the answer for the 33AJ007i/9. The "left ?" is positive and the "right ?" is negative. 

 

 

Now, I measured the 33AJ007i/9, once in parallel and once in series and I don't get it. Why is the series outpouting more bass than the parallel.

blue is in parallel, red in series 

 

 

 

 

this is how I wired the parallel 

this is how I wired in series

 

 

 

in this picture I measured the same driver (in green) but just connected the green and red wire to one side with no interconnection for series or parallel.

I got lower output around 1khz but the bass was similar to the driver connected in parallel

 

 

Is this how it is supposed to be?

I used the same length tube for all measurement and no dampers or resistors/caps.

 

1st question can be answered with BA's inductive nature. I remember posting something here few months ago.

2nd question might have to do something with mechanical & acoustical resonance (that 1khz peak) & damping factor (bass difference).

post #4394 of 4786
Quote:
Originally Posted by tranhieu View Post
 

 

1st question can be answered with BA's inductive nature. I remember posting something here few months ago.

2nd question might have to do something with mechanical & acoustical resonance (that 1khz peak) & damping factor (bass difference).

So you think I could have different results if I use a resistor (say 20ohm) before the driver on both configurations (para/series) in regard of the bass level output?

post #4395 of 4786
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForceMajeure View Post

So you think I could have different results if I use a resistor (say 20ohm) before the driver on both configurations (para/series) in regard of the bass level output?
The effect would be subtle though, might not even show up in the graph but still be audible.
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