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Home-Made IEMs - Page 221

post #3301 of 3309
Quote:
Originally Posted by KeLLoGsX View Post
 

How did you manage to make it hollow from the start?

 

I used a salt and pepper application. I used a small squeeze bottle of the acrylic powder and an eyedropper for the monomer liquid. blow a little powder onto the mold using the squeeze bottle and than apply a little monomer over the same spot, I would keep doing that all around the mold until I built up a thick enough wall to be rigid and strong. I stopped making shells that way because they ended up with very thick walls and not as much space left on the inside for drivers as I would like and because the monomer is none to good for your health and It was making me feel a bit ill.

 

It looks like your shell is a bit rough around the edges. I recommend sanding that down until it is nice and smooth before putting it in your ear. I have scratched the inside if my ear before and it is not fun.

post #3302 of 3309
Quote:
Originally Posted by KeLLoGsX View Post

 

I'm using a clear cold curing acrylic from Dreve Dentamid, since I'm already a customer of them but I've been in contact with Dreve Otoplastik to see if I could get hold of some Fotoplast as a sample.

 

When using the acrylic I'll be doing a solid piece which I then will have to drill out to make a shell, already done it once and it came out pretty good. But hopefully I'll get some Fotoplast instead and make some proper shells.

 



If you use cold cure acrylic, you can do wait and turn down method for shells.There is blurry surface at inside of shell.

More explanation for method:
Heat the negative mold, then pour acrylic mixture(cold mixture is recommended) to negative. Wait until a rim begin at the border of mould, rim thickness means wall thickness of shell, then turn out the acrylic. Cold cure acrylic is using by westone as I know, it is very robust material. This info is expensive info for me, it costs to me about 3-4kg cold acrylic. smily_headphones1.gif
Edited by tsn141 - 2/24/15 at 10:56pm
post #3303 of 3309
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsn141 View Post

If you use cold cure acrylic, you can do wait and turn down method for shells.There is blurry surface at inside of shell.

More explanation for method:
Heat the negative mold, then pour acrylic mixture(cold mixture is recommended) to negative. Wait until a rim begin at the border of mould, rim thickness means wall thickness of shell, then turn out the acrylic. Cold cure acrylic is using by westone as I know, it is very robust material. This info is expensive info for me, it costs to me about 3-4kg cold acrylic. smily_headphones1.gif

 

Wow, great info! Do you know what material is used for the negative mold, since it has to be preheated. Don't know if it will work with silicone? Then you just let it set a bit and then pour out the remaining acrylic mix, am I right (like they do with uv treated shells)? 

post #3304 of 3309
Quote:
Originally Posted by KeLLoGsX View Post
 

 

Wow, great info! Do you know what material is used for the negative mold, since it has to be preheated. Don't know if it will work with silicone? Then you just let it set a bit and then pour out the remaining acrylic mix, am I right (like they do with uv treated shells)? 

I used agar-agar gel, and plaster mold also used. I heat up negative with hot water. Yes very similar to UV method, heat and time cures material instead of UV, but remaining part not used again. There is rough surface inside of shell only problem is this.

post #3305 of 3309

Ok, plaster I have plenty and I think I can get some agar-agar as well, will try it out.

 

Right now I'm doing a new negative mold in gelatine (food-grade) instead, last time I used it for the acrylic mix it came out very nice and smooth.

post #3306 of 3309
I heated up gel via hot water, you can heat up plaster via oven or similar lamp.
post #3307 of 3309

Alright, Noob here. I have gone through about 150 pages, but still have more to go in order to catch up.

 

I want to start out with a TWFK / CI combo.  However, I am going on a long trip very soon and want to take time to balance the pair, so I was thinking of just a single ED for now (unless you can convince me otherwise).  :)

 

Couple of questions:

 

1. For single ED, what tube length range do you recommend experimenting with?

 

2. Where is the best place to buy tubing?  - 2mm ID I would assume with the filters being 2.08, Right? - I have found sourcing for pretty much all the other parts.

 

3.  MMCX female...what is the part number for Mouser?  This is the one that I was thinking of, but it is PCB mount.   http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Linx-Technologies%2fCONMMCX001%2f&qs=sGAEpiMZZMuLQf%252bEuFsOru48dlYVRPu%252b56IpUHEmH30%3d

 

Thanks for the help.

post #3308 of 3309

You want to go with 13-16mm x 2mmID tubing and damper 680-1500 Ohm.

post #3309 of 3309
Quote:
Originally Posted by squambug View Post
 

Alright, Noob here. I have gone through about 150 pages, but still have more to go in order to catch up.

 

I want to start out with a TWFK / CI combo.  However, I am going on a long trip very soon and want to take time to balance the pair, so I was thinking of just a single ED for now (unless you can convince me otherwise).  :)

 

Couple of questions:

 

1. For single ED, what tube length range do you recommend experimenting with?

 

2. Where is the best place to buy tubing?  - 2mm ID I would assume with the filters being 2.08, Right? - I have found sourcing for pretty much all the other parts.

 

3.  MMCX female...what is the part number for Mouser?  This is the one that I was thinking of, but it is PCB mount.   http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?Linx-Technologies%2fCONMMCX001%2f&qs=sGAEpiMZZMuLQf%252bEuFsOru48dlYVRPu%252b56IpUHEmH30%3d

 

Thanks for the help.

This is the mmcx part you need

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=73415-0963virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-73415-0963

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