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Home-Made IEMs - Page 143

post #2131 of 2258
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xymordos View Post
 

When I first got my 'DIY' 711, I measured my own UERMs. This is the frequency response of my UERM left earpiece (right earpiece bass driver is wonky). I wonder if this 711 is accurate based on this graph?

 

Here's mine for comparison

 

Do you measure yours with Sine or Noise? What's your settings in general?


Edited by piotrus-g - 8/8/14 at 9:49am
post #2132 of 2258

I used MLS default settings. I have to use blutak to wrap the thing around the tube though. 

 

Edit: I'm just gonna manually adjust the 3kHz to 9kHz frequencies upwards to roughly get the actual response. At least it tells me whether I have phase cancelling. 


Edited by Xymordos - 8/8/14 at 10:38am
post #2133 of 2258
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xymordos View Post
 

I used MLS default settings. I have to use blutak to wrap the thing around the tube though. 

 

Edit: I'm just gonna manually adjust the 3kHz to 9kHz frequencies upwards to roughly get the actual response. At least it tells me whether I have phase cancelling. 

Could you do the sine measurement? Use sweep, long sweep 256k sequence and post graph then.

post #2134 of 2258

It looks the same :\

 

On the bright side I fixed the phase issue! Time to reduce the peaks...

post #2135 of 2258

On soldering the wires to the drivers itself, what kind of wire do you guys use?


litz wires, magnet wires/enameled, regular copper wires


if so and what gauge as well?

post #2136 of 2258
Quote:
Originally Posted by Negataros View Post

On soldering the wires to the drivers itself, what kind of wire do you guys use?



litz wires, magnet wires/enameled, regular copper wires



if so and what gauge as well?


This was discussed few pages back.
post #2137 of 2258

Try the wires from Estron. They're very good apparently.

post #2138 of 2258

I'm happy to report that I have gotten pretty flat response down to 20Hz now. In hindsight and during testing, I found that CI really doesn't add much for the sound, other than to make it slightly more fuller since it has a different response than HODVTEC. I think for ultimate bass, dual HODVTEC and GQ will be sufficient for a great setup.

post #2139 of 2258
GQ is combination of what drivers?
post #2140 of 2258
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuZo2 View Post

GQ is combination of what drivers?

 

The WBFK + ED driver with internal crossover. I would honestly prefer to adjust WBFK and ED separately which I will do when I go back to my first earphones (WBFK, ED, CI, DTEC), but for now I'll complete testing the HODVTEC, CI, GQ earphone without modifications.

post #2141 of 2258
Quote:
Originally Posted by vector1 View Post
 

I'm happy to report that I have gotten pretty flat response down to 20Hz now. In hindsight and during testing, I found that CI really doesn't add much for the sound, other than to make it slightly more fuller since it has a different response than HODVTEC. I think for ultimate bass, dual HODVTEC and GQ will be sufficient for a great setup.

I need to re-work my GQ + DTEC set by using an electronic crossover instead of or in conjunction with the red damper, I have discovered that I don't get the base kick I am looking for unless the sound port is deep in my ear canal, unfortunately, making the sound port go this deep causes me to get killer headaches and feel sick so that is not an option. I know basically nothing about designing a low pass filter, and I don't fully understand circuit diagrams. Can I get away with using a single resistor of around 8 Ohm for the low pass filter or is that only going to make DTEC quieter overall? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

post #2142 of 2258
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMOS1138 View Post
 

I need to re-work my GQ + DTEC set by using an electronic crossover instead of or in conjunction with the red damper, I have discovered that I don't get the base kick I am looking for unless the sound port is deep in my ear canal, unfortunately, making the sound port go this deep causes me to get killer headaches and feel sick so that is not an option. I know basically nothing about designing a low pass filter, and I don't fully understand circuit diagrams. Can I get away with using a single resistor of around 8 Ohm for the low pass filter or is that only going to make DTEC quieter overall? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

I'm using a 2nd order filter with 100uF caps as per photo below, stacked twice, resistance is changed to taste as it controls the volume of the bass

 

post #2143 of 2258

Hows the resolution of HODVTEC vs CI? I feel that HODVTEC seems be worse compared to the CI.

post #2144 of 2258
Quote:
Originally Posted by vector1 View Post
 

 

I'm using a 2nd order filter with 100uF caps as per photo below, stacked twice, resistance is changed to taste as it controls the volume of the bass

 

OK let me see if I can figure out that Diagram, so the Vout side is connected to the driver correct? and the caps are wired in parallel with the driver. are the caps in series with each other or in parallel? and based on what you are saying about picking the resistor to taste and that it controls volume, does that mean that the resistor is optional? could I achieve the same low pass effect with only the capacitors?

post #2145 of 2258
In simple words:
Low pass - resistor in series followed by capacitor in parallel connected to negative wire.

You HAVE TO use resistor or other driver first before cap wired to ground
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