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Home-Made IEMs - Page 129

post #1921 of 2209
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjp007 View Post

I used the white dampers. I thought the GQ was a WBFK paired with an ED. I do agree the bass is lacking. I'm thinking of adding a CI for my next design as a three way.

you are correct, I meant ED but for some reason typed bk.

post #1922 of 2209

Thanks I'll try to order some of it as well. 

Does anyone have a supplier for litz wires or knows which AWG and number of strands works best?


Edited by tomtomtom - 7/9/14 at 10:21pm
post #1923 of 2209
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomtomtom View Post
 

Thanks I'll try to order some of it as well. 

Does anyone have a supplier for litz wires or knows which AWG and number of strands works best?

34AWG is about the same size as the litz, but you won't get that same softness. They are a lot cheaper than litz anyways.

post #1924 of 2209

So my frequency test showed that the left earpiece had a massive spike on 2k, while the right earpiece didn't....So I stuffed some cotton into the ED29689 tube to solve that, but that also dropped 5k peak by quite a bit. Though it sounds more coherent now, and the bass doesn't sound too lacking now

post #1925 of 2209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xymordos View Post
 

So my frequency test showed that the left earpiece had a massive spike on 2k, while the right earpiece didn't....So I stuffed some cotton into the ED29689 tube to solve that, but that also dropped 5k peak by quite a bit. Though it sounds more coherent now, and the bass doesn't sound too lacking now

try experimenting with dampers to get a balanced sound, or you could always use the same cotton trick on the right side. I red somewhere that the highest quality damping material is wool but the results are not predictable.

post #1926 of 2209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xymordos View Post

So my frequency test showed that the left earpiece had a massive spike on 2k, while the right earpiece didn't....So I stuffed some cotton into the ED29689 tube to solve that, but that also dropped 5k peak by quite a bit. Though it sounds more coherent now, and the bass doesn't sound too lacking now
you got something wrong with either drivers or polarisation...
Sweeping problem under the table won't solve the problem, you known.
post #1927 of 2209

The driver matching is problematic. I was making another one and decided to test the drivers and realized they're actually all a few db off

 

I'll break the shell of this one and do it again another time. They're in a custom shell so I can't open them up unless I smash them.

post #1928 of 2209
Quote:

Originally Posted by Xymordos View Post
 

 

I'll break the shell of this one and do it again another time. They're in a custom shell so I can't open them up unless I smash them.

 

 

Would it be impossible to slice the shell neatly in half?

 

http://www.dremeleurope.com/gb/en/ocs/product/6046/352/dremel%C2%AE-ez-speedclic:-plastic-cutting-wheels-5-pack/dremel%C2%AE-ez-speedclic:-plastic-cutting-wheels-5-pack.

post #1929 of 2209

I smashed it and am building it again at the moment! Hope everything goes well this time :P Driver matching is a pain though. Very hard to test the response of drivers on a 711

post #1930 of 2209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xymordos View Post
 

I smashed it and am building it again at the moment!

 

 

Looks like you may be a 'glutton for punishment'! (or, more likely, a massochist...) :D

 

 

Either way, I hope the new build goes well this time. :beerchug: 

 

I must say, I'm surprised you are experiencing so large a db variation between identical-spec drivers.

 

 

.


Edited by Mython - 7/13/14 at 7:06am
post #1931 of 2209

This time I made sure the tubes were sealed properly. But a few mm length difference in tubing shouldn't make a big difference in sound right? Also the raw drivers (I tested 2 pairs of drivers) have a few db of mismatch by themselves anyways...which is problematic, since the difference in sound adds up.

post #1932 of 2209

So tested the new DIY HODVTEC-31618+ED29689+WBFK30019. The graph is like this, and I have no idea what went wrong? Anyone can help to troubleshoot?

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Frequency response

 

Edit: The problem is the 1k dip. The graph actually looks nicer on the left ear in the bass region when I did it again afterwards with a better tip. No idea what happened to the right ear's 1khz


Edited by Xymordos - 7/15/14 at 1:45am
post #1933 of 2209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xymordos View Post

So tested the new DIY HODVTEC-31618+ED29689+WBFK30019. The graph is like this, and I have no idea what went wrong? Anyone can help to troubleshoot?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Frequency response



Edit: The problem is the 1k dip. The graph actually looks nicer on the left ear in the bass region when I did it again afterwards with a better tip. No idea what happened to the right ear's 1khz
DTEC is in the wrong polarisation or is connected in series instead of parallel.
If the measurement is made with IEC711 then I'd suggest using bigger cap for ed - 3,3uF or even bigger but no more than 10uF.
Also you can add a bit of resistance to DTEC - ~10 ohm to slightly balance the output
Edited by piotrus-g - 7/15/14 at 2:08am
post #1934 of 2209

Thank you so much! I'll go check the connection again. This is made with a DIY version of 711, but it is very accurate for what it is. This graph however isn't that accurate since none of the tips I have actually fit the shell - the sound tube is really really big. 

 

 

Edit: I checked again, both sides should be wired the same! Assuming the side with the engraving of "31618" is facing up, the right side is positive and left is negative?


Edited by Xymordos - 7/15/14 at 2:22am
post #1935 of 2209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xymordos View Post
 

Thank you so much! I'll go check the connection again. This is made with a DIY version of 711, but it is very accurate for what it is. This graph however isn't that accurate since none of the tips I have actually fit the shell - the sound tube is really really big. 

 

 

Edit: I checked again, both sides should be wired the same! Assuming the side with the engraving of "31618" is facing up, the right side is positive and left is negative?


OK, thanks for the update.

Is it possible that you've soldered one of the wire to the housing of the driver? some overlaying solder or litz touching the case? The problem here could be related to such issue on ED driver.

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