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Home-Made IEMs - Page 127

post #1891 of 2971

I'm a little afraid to keep adding components, but in order to control the bass from the CI, I've been testing a resistor + highpass filter on the CI. I'm running a 50uF cap on the WBFK as well to improve the 4kHz response.

 

That helps cut the midrange all the way down, so the 1-4kHz region can come forward when I up the volume.

 

By the time I'm done, I'm going to have to increase the size of my earphones just to fit in all the electronics :x

 

Also, does anyone have any idea why my computer headphone jack produces very strong bass, and my sansa clip zip does not? As far as I can check, there are no enhancements/EQ going on in my laptop, but the bass response is nearly 5-10dB higher at the <250Hz range.

 

Most of the other players I tested so far behave more like my sansa clip rather than my laptop, though next week a friend is going to test with a USB DAC for accuracy.

post #1892 of 2971
Just a guess - maybe your computer headphone out has larger impedance and maybe your crossover design results in bass shift if you have larger impedance.
post #1893 of 2971

So I finished my earphones - can't post a picture since I'm on vacation. So I used a WBFK with ~1.0mm-1.5mm diameter stainless steel tube, with ~1-2cm in length and 1uf cap; a ED29689 with 2uf cap, same stainless steel tubing but I think 2cm in length, both with white damper; and a HODVTEC-31618 as lows with red damper (all sellers I found ran out of anything higher in ohms...) and ~5cm length 0.5mm silicon tubing.

 

Sound was very large, spacious, and clear, but the bass was quite lacking surprisingly. Bass was deep but was not impactful, and it was rather quiet. Wonder what went wrong. 

 

What would connecting two drivers in parallel do to the sound compared to one driver? Say 1xWBFK vs 2xWBFK?

post #1894 of 2971
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xymordos View Post
 

So I finished my earphones - can't post a picture since I'm on vacation. So I used a WBFK with ~1.0mm-1.5mm diameter stainless steel tube, with ~1-2cm in length and 1uf cap; a ED29689 with 2uf cap, same stainless steel tubing but I think 2cm in length, both with white damper; and a HODVTEC-31618 as lows with red damper (all sellers I found ran out of anything higher in ohms...) and ~5cm length 0.5mm silicon tubing.

 

Sound was very large, spacious, and clear, but the bass was quite lacking surprisingly. Bass was deep but was not impactful, and it was rather quiet. Wonder what went wrong. 

 

What would connecting two drivers in parallel do to the sound compared to one driver? Say 1xWBFK vs 2xWBFK?

 

In theory, it should double the volume, but judging that there are so many interactions between each of the drivers and crossover, anyone's guess is good as mine.

 

I guess that it might give you more options in tuning, eg what TWFK does already, or simply increase output of that range by some fraction.

post #1895 of 2971
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xymordos View Post

So I finished my earphones - can't post a picture since I'm on vacation. So I used a WBFK with ~1.0mm-1.5mm diameter stainless steel tube, with ~1-2cm in length and 1uf cap; a ED29689 with 2uf cap, same stainless steel tubing but I think 2cm in length, both with white damper; and a HODVTEC-31618 as lows with red damper (all sellers I found ran out of anything higher in ohms...) and ~5cm length 0.5mm silicon tubing.

Sound was very large, spacious, and clear, but the bass was quite lacking surprisingly. Bass was deep but was not impactful, and it was rather quiet. Wonder what went wrong. 

What would connecting two drivers in parallel do to the sound compared to one driver? Say 1xWBFK vs 2xWBFK?
To long tube on woofer. Try 3 cm max.
It also seems like you are listening to it at still open earphones. That's what happens when you have vented driver and open shell. It you close the shell pressure will increase.
Be sure that the phase is correct
post #1896 of 2971

Also should he use 1mm instead of 0.5mm?

post #1897 of 2971

Actually the smaller the better, since smaller tube would act as a better low pass filter. 

 

My guess is due to having longer tube, there's a sharp bend somewhere along the tube that actually prevents sound from going through. Better shorten the tube.

post #1898 of 2971
Quote:
Originally Posted by piotrus-g View Post


To long tube on woofer. Try 3 cm max.
It also seems like you are listening to it at still open earphones. That's what happens when you have vented driver and open shell. It you close the shell pressure will increase.
Be sure that the phase is correct

 

That's possible. The tips aren't really fitting on me since the nozzle of shell I have is too big. Will sand it down when I get back from vacation to see if it works. My feedback from other DIYers in China said that the HODTEC doesn't have very good bass?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by tranhieu View Post
 

Actually the smaller the better, since smaller tube would act as a better low pass filter. 

 

My guess is due to having longer tube, there's a sharp bend somewhere along the tube that actually prevents sound from going through. Better shorten the tube.

 

That's also possible. But the tube I have doesn't 'sharp bend' that easily, I hope it isn't the case. Would it make a big difference between 3cm and 5cm? I was hoping for a strong low pass filter effect. Would changing it to a CI driver be better, or using a orange/yellow filter instead of a red one?

 

I had a better listen of it with different tracks and some bass frequencies seems more pronounced than others, which was quite weird. Will get a proper measurement with my equipment when I'm home.

 

I'm thinking of making an improved version with probably a CI driver and double WBFK/SWFK for better highs. My current ones seem to roll off slightly despite the straight stainless steel sound bores. 


Edited by Xymordos - 7/3/14 at 6:55am
post #1899 of 2971

I read some people have paired up a GQ driver with a CI for bass.  The GQ driver is a WBFK combined with an ED driver with built in crossover.  Seems like a good match.  I've also heard that the Apple Dual Driver In Ear Monitor uses a modified GQ driver.  These are going on ebay for about $40.  What's wrong with just taking the driver out of the ADDIEM and pairing up with a CI.  I was thinking of just using dampers instead of electrical cross over.  What do you guys think?  


Edited by wjp007 - 7/3/14 at 12:34pm
post #1900 of 2971
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xymordos View Post
 

 

That's possible. The tips aren't really fitting on me since the nozzle of shell I have is too big. Will sand it down when I get back from vacation to see if it works. My feedback from other DIYers in China said that the HODTEC doesn't have very good bass?

 

 

That's also possible. But the tube I have doesn't 'sharp bend' that easily, I hope it isn't the case. Would it make a big difference between 3cm and 5cm? I was hoping for a strong low pass filter effect. Would changing it to a CI driver be better, or using a orange/yellow filter instead of a red one?

 

I had a better listen of it with different tracks and some bass frequencies seems more pronounced than others, which was quite weird. Will get a proper measurement with my equipment when I'm home.

 

I'm thinking of making an improved version with probably a CI driver and double WBFK/SWFK for better highs. My current ones seem to roll off slightly despite the straight stainless steel sound bores. 

2cm difference is no problem for sub 1khz frequencies. 

 

You should try pcv for the tweeter first to have a good reference as almost (if not all) CIEM manufacturers out there choose that material. My experience is that unless you CNC the tubes yourself, there's a high chance it can attenuate the top end.

post #1901 of 2971

hello friends! 
I'm new in this forum and would like to collaborate.

You already tried to use a 100nF with a resistor 47 oms?

post #1902 of 2971

I have a documentation Sonion / colsan says: 
"It is recommended to use a tube with a 2mm diameter and the shorter the
better. The  tube should have a length of no more than 20mm for low 
frequencies (Woofer shown in yellow below) and 12 mm for high 
frequencies (Tweeter shown in blue below), this means that in situations 
where the space is limited the tweeter (blue) needs to be in front of the 
woofer (yellow)."

already tried this? 

post #1903 of 2971
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjp007 View Post
 

I read some people have paired up a GQ driver with a CI for bass.  The GQ driver is a WBFK combined with an ED driver with built in crossover.  Seems like a good match.  I've also heard that the Apple Dual Driver In Ear Monitor uses a modified GQ driver.  These are going on ebay for about $40.  What's wrong with just taking the driver out of the ADDIEM and pairing up with a CI.  I was thinking of just using dampers instead of electrical cross over.  What do you guys think?  

It could work, without dampers, the GQ driver is very bright sounding. You may end up with a sound similar to the GK driver that pairs CI and TWFK. I have been toying with a similar idea but I was thinking of using DTEC instead of CI.

post #1904 of 2971
The stainless steel tubes were bought off taobao with exact diameter! I am also able to get pvc/copper/teflon/silicon tubes at a wide range of diamaters and at low prices too!

Would using a double driver be better for resolution?

Pulling the bass tube out a bit brought out more bass. 5cm tube might have filtered the sound too much! Phase should be correct since I can see a clear center image.

EDIT: on second thought it might be the ED driver being too loud! Ill have to do proper measurements when I return from vacation to be sure
Edited by Xymordos - 7/4/14 at 1:57am
post #1905 of 2971
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xymordos View Post

The stainless steel tubes were bought off taobao with exact diameter! I am also able to get pvc/copper/teflon/silicon tubes at a wide range of diamaters

 

 

Teflon might sound nice. :rolleyes: (nice compromise).

 

I wonder if anyone's produced CIEMs commercially using teflon tubing..

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