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The Beyerdynamic DT880 Discussion thread - Page 24

post #346 of 10534
Bought my drivers at the Beyer spare parts online shop, both had perfect 582 ohms. They also were packaged together, so I guess they had been sorted before. Too bad that the online shop is for germany only...
post #347 of 10534
Quote:
Originally Posted by Superfrag View Post
Headroom has both the 600ohm as well as the 250ohm version, but I just wanted to ask, are those 600ohm actually the correct 600ohm version you'll are talking about?

Or should I order from Moon-Audio since chinesekiwi in the first post confirmed that the Moon-Audio one's are actually 600ohm?
Anyone?
post #348 of 10534
I'm pretty certain if Headroom says they are 600 ohm, then they are 600 ohm. The "old" 600 ohm pro versions wouldn't be sold by headroom.
post #349 of 10534
Quote:
Originally Posted by shane55 View Post
I just received mine (also through Amazon). At work, so I can't do anything with them (but look and drool).

Box has sticker as well. Molded plug-end has 600ohm (symbol).

OK, here come the stupid questions: How do you check for ohm balance? What kind of device is used? Where do you check (do you have to dis-assemble the cans)?

Also... if imbalanced, what is the effect... different volume levels, different sonic signature?

shane
You need multimeter
Ground, left, right info is here TRS connector - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
post #350 of 10534
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew_WOT View Post
You need multimeter
Ground, left, right info is here TRS connector - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Got it!

They are 567.3 and 570.1.

I'm just guessing here, but I think this should be OK.

Thanks all for the assistance and patience with the noob inquiries.

shane
post #351 of 10534
Right now I am listening to my beyer dt 880 600 ohm's with a brand new Meier Corda concerto and man they sound great. Serious soundstage. clarity and balance. Did I mention they are not colored at all. No need to EQ at all. Wow.
post #352 of 10534
shane, what multimeter are you using?

I'm interested in picking one up. Anyone know something decent for $20-$50?
post #353 of 10534
A little off topic, but can anyone share their, cough, burn-in story with the DT880/600?
post #354 of 10534
Quote:
Originally Posted by David.M View Post
shane, what multimeter are you using?

I'm interested in picking one up. Anyone know something decent for $20-$50?
Hehe... It's my Chief Engineers Fluke #116
Fluke 116 HVAC Multimeter with Temperature and Microamps
It's about $165 at Amazon.

Mine @ home, is a Sears Craftsman:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a

Inexpensive and works very well. But hey, I'm at work so I used what I could.

shane
post #355 of 10534
Quote:
Originally Posted by shane55 View Post
Hehe... It's my Chief Engineers Fluke #116
Fluke 116 HVAC Multimeter with Temperature and Microamps
It's about $165 at Amazon.

Mine @ home, is a Sears Craftsman:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a

Inexpensive and works very well. But hey, I'm at work so I used what I could.

shane
thx. I think I'll save my money and stick with the $20 one tho

btw, how the hell do these things even work? I've never used one in my entire life, would i need an adapter or something to start er up? Or is it plug and play?
post #356 of 10534
Quote:
Originally Posted by David.M View Post
thx. I think I'll save my money and stick with the $20 one tho

btw, how the hell do these things even work? I've never used one in my entire life, would i need an adapter or something to start er up? Or is it plug and play?
9v battery (usually) and away you go!

Turn it to the ohm symbol and touch the two probes together (just the metal tips). Your reading should be 0 or .1 (indicating no resistance between the probes).

Then proceed to the 1/4 stereo plug. The area closest to the hilt is the 'neutral' or 'ground'. The other two are the positive for the left and right.
Keep the black probe tip on the 'ground' and touch the L&R (separately) with the red probe tip. Check the readings for each. That's all there is.

shane
post #357 of 10534
thx Shane.

looks pretty straight forward and easy.
I'll send you a pm If i miserably fail and get lost somewhere
post #358 of 10534
Quote:
Originally Posted by pataburd View Post
A little off topic, but can anyone share their, cough, burn-in story with the DT880/600?
sure... as long as it's a STORY you want ;-) as I think I mentioned here before, I had a 250 ohm and gave in to temptation, adding a 600 ohm pair. I listen to them mostly on desktop tube amps. it's an imperfect comparison since my 250 ohm is also recabled, which does seem to almost eliminate any possibility of stating which one I like better: the recabled 250 ohm has many more hours on it and sounds great, the 600 ohm came cold and needed some time to catch up. I still estimate its lag in use to be significant, but it can be considered burned-in (for those who believe in this) and has improved significantly over that time in my estimation. however, it's still impossible for me to state univocally what each one has over the other. suffice it to say that in the beginning, a well-used recabled 250 ohm DT880 had a clear edge, and over time, the 600 ohm version has caught up, without sounding nearly the same. in short, I'm happy I have both.
post #359 of 10534

burn in

Quote:
Originally Posted by pataburd View Post
A little off topic, but can anyone share their, cough, burn-in story with the DT880/600?
When I first bought my 600's I almost gave them away they were so bright. After about 50 hours burn in they started to become balanced and the low end came through and became very precise and balanced.

That being said, they are now my favorite cans!!!
post #360 of 10534
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylab View Post
I'm pretty certain if Headroom says they are 600 ohm, then they are 600 ohm. The "old" 600 ohm pro versions wouldn't be sold by headroom.
Thanks a lot!
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