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The Beyerdynamic DT880 Appreciation / Discussion thread - Page 347

post #5191 of 7051
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeretixAevum View Post
 

OK, I got it out, but I'm not quite sure what I'm looking for. It looks intact to me, but then I again I have no idea what I'm talking about!

 

 

 

Solder joints look solid!

post #5192 of 7051
Glue looks undisturbed, could be the cable end and not the driver... Those tangs will pull out very easily so be careful handling the driver. Without a meter there is no way to check unless you apply audio right to the drivers two outside tangs.
post #5193 of 7051
Yeah, looks solid. I guess you can look at the space between the baffle (white disc) and the tab/tangs. If you look closely, you can see wires going from the driver to the underside of the tangs. Else, I'm out of ideas w/o a multimeter.

Have you tried playing with the jack while music is playing? like twisting or slowly pulling it out of the female jack?
post #5194 of 7051

Plug the headphones into a source and start playing some music.

Then short the blue and red tangs together with a paperclip or screwdriver "CAREFULLY" and if the driver makes sound you will know that it is not the driver but the cable that is bad.

post #5195 of 7051

Yeah, I've tried those (very suggestive) things, also tried my mobile without the quarter inch adaptor and still no ball. I can see the minuscule wires coming out of the driver to the underside of the tangs. There's two, one going to the tang with the blue cable, the other going to the tang with the copper, and nothing going to the red and white in the middle. Is that right?

 

Honestly, I'm starting to feel like this is more trouble than it's worth, and that I'm probably going to return it. It just seems dead.

post #5196 of 7051

The Red and White wires are for the other driver.

Red comes up from the cable, the White goes across the headband. There would only be a driver wires connecting to the Blue & common ground (Copper) on that side.

post #5197 of 7051

Success!!! Its hard for me to get in the exact right position, but I shorted the red and blue and I get sound!

post #5198 of 7051
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeretixAevum View Post
 

Success!!! Its hard for me to get in the exact right position, but I shorted the red and blue and I get sound!

Primo!

 

It is just the cable that is bad, either where it comes into the housing or the 3.5 mm jack itself.

Easy and cheap fix for sure.

:beerchug:

post #5199 of 7051

Great news, well in that case I'll get it recabled. Thanks a ton for the help, no way I could have done this alone!

post #5200 of 7051

My pleasure!

Get them cabled up and enjoy your Beyers!

:beerchug:

post #5201 of 7051

Will do, I'll post back as things develop :dt880smile:

post #5202 of 7051
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeretixAevum View Post

Success!!! Its hard for me to get in the exact right position, but I shorted the red and blue and I get sound!
Awesome! A relatively inexpensive fix. Replacing drivers will set you back more (It's $80 or so before s&h from US Distro) beerchug.gif Hope you like the full 880 sound when they're fixed. biggrin.gif
post #5203 of 7051
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrEleventy View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeretixAevum View Post

Success!!! Its hard for me to get in the exact right position, but I shorted the red and blue and I get sound!
Awesome! A relatively inexpensive fix. Replacing drivers will set you back more (It's $80 or so before s&h from US Distro) beerchug.gif Hope you like the full 880 sound when they're fixed. biggrin.gif

 

Drivers cost me $66 incl shipping USPS Priority Mail....still not cheap.  Meter would diagnose the cable break.......

post #5204 of 7051

I'm in australia and postage would be more on top of lower dollar value.

 

Glad its the cable, and no international shipping involved.

post #5205 of 7051
Quote:
Originally Posted by cute View Post
 

 

Not likely a poor solder joint causing the problem, unless someone has tampered inside.  I have had bad drivers twice on my DT880's, one that they sent me was 650 ohms, a real mismatch, but Beyer replaced it with a 603 ohm driver and imbalance was fixed.....bought them used from headfi initially!  You need to have very good soldering skills to work with the Beyer's, and a variable heat soldering iron set to about 650 - 700 degrees, with stained glass flux and high quality solder......with this setup you only need to touch the driver tabs for about 2 seconds.....too much heat too long may damage the driver!  Of you have a multimeter you can check resistance at the plug end between ground and tip/ ground and ring for left and right driver....should be approx. 600 ohms.  One of the bad drivers that I had, the resistance fluctuated back and forth over 1000 ohms down to around 800 ohms.....definitely bad!

Eeek, don't say that! Scared me! I've yet to test out the DT880 250ohm sent to my parents place a couple weeks back. I'm all worried now. :S Can I test if the drivers are balanced by getting an SPL meter?

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