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My first recable (K81DJ), opinions?

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
The materials:



The victim:



The tools:



The modification:

Stock


Modified


The place where the cable enters has one of the ridges (closest to the driver; where the strain relief normally sits) ground down to make room for the new strain relief since the old one didn't fit. The new one is made from 3:1 1/2" adhesive heatshrink...used because once it has shrunk down it forms a bulletproof, solid piece of rubber...perfect for a strain relief.

The finished product:



The jack:



The Y-split:





May redo this, since it doesn't live up to my standards...doesn't look good enough.

The cable entrances:



Materials used:

-5.5' Mogami Neglex Starquad
-1/2" 3:1 Adhesive Heatshrink
-Switchcraft 3.5mm Plug
-4.5' 3/16" Nylon Multifilament Sleeving
-2' Milspec Black Paracord Sheathing
-Kester 63/37 Solder

Lessons learnt:

While the end product yielded a bulletproof cable, it may be a bit too much for everyday use...should've used mini-starquad, but it's not too bad currently. Originally I couldn't finish the recable since I was missing the 1/8" nylon sleeving, but then realized that the 1000' spool of 550 paracord will work, so I used that instead. Cheaper than actual nylon multifilament, $6 for 100ft.

Sound quality wise, the recable has brightened up the AKGs considerably...bass has gotten even deeper and more refined/precise. All the K81DJ qualities were still there though, hard hitting bass and a decent mid-range...just that there are highs now.

The verdict:

Satisfied...for now Easy mod for a cheap pair of headphones...really improves it.

On the other hand, I did manage to make another set of cables...originally meant for the AKGs, but 26 AWG wire, even braided with 3 other strands is way too thin, so am deciding to use it for IEMs. Litz braided (round) up until the Y-split, then twisted.









Materials:

-30' 26 AWG Jupiter Cotton-Insulated Solid-Core Copper Wire
-5' Milspec Black Paracord Sheathing
-Kester 63/37 Solder
-Switchcraft 3.5mm Plug

*Neat little trick: I only have 1/2" 3:1 adhesive heatshrink and it was too thick for this job, so I had to improvise. Apply a dab of hot glue on the area to be joined, then put heatshrink over that. Using a heatgun on high, shrink the heatshrink. The temp will also in turn melt the hot glue and distribute it along the entire joint. This works especially well at the Y-splits.*


Opinions?

Brendan
post #2 of 9
Are you sure the 26awg is too thin? In terms of gauge, it's fine to use 26 for a headphone recable.

Opinions? For a first go - well for any go, it looks awesome. My first go was horrendous in comparison so very well done!
post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
Depending on your headphone I guess...for mid-full size cans, it was a bit too thin IMO, would work better on clip ons or IEMS.
post #4 of 9
Seeing as it's solid core wire, is it flexible?
post #5 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberspyder View Post
Depending on your headphone I guess...for mid-full size cans, it was a bit too thin IMO, would work better on clip ons or IEMS.
You said you should've used mini star quad?
Well, mini star quad is 26 AWG, FYI
post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
But there's that layer of insulation that thickens it up.

Regarding the flexibility, it drapes really well, especially since its braided. Not as good as stranded wire, but I don't expect to move alot.

Brendan
post #7 of 9
Thank you for this thread, it inspired me to attempt my first recable too, after the original cable broke. I used two lengths of shielded 2-strand Canare L2E5 and a Neutrik connector, the rest is all standard - Flexo, heatshrink etc. The shielding is acting as the ground line.

It's bulky and not particularly flexible, but perfect length for portable use and I like the effect of the clear heatshrink over the braided shielding. I need to plug the enclosure entrances as they're picking up a lot of wind noise when outdoors - planning to slice up a foam earplug and wrap it around each cable, then cut it flush with the entrance. Also not satisfied with the Y-split yet, but I didn't have wide enough heatshrink so I'll redo it some other time. Still, for my first ever soldering/cabling job of any sort, I'm pretty happy.









post #8 of 9
nice job, to make the Y split more attractive; try using the same technique IE: clamp the adhesive shrink in some needle nose pliers and shrink, then hold till it cools. this trick looks much neater if you use pliers without the grip ie. smooth pliers.

oh and 26AWG is perfectly fine for fullsize, just use some cotton or silk with or without braided shield under the techflex to fill it out a bit and provide damping/strength.
post #9 of 9
Thanks for the tip, that's pretty much what I was aiming for except I didn't have access to needlenose pliers and the heatshrink was just barely wide enough to fit in the first place.

I'll grab something wider and redo it when I get a chance, which will also give me an opportunity to straighten out the one or two twists under the techflex that I was too lazy to fix at the time. I got a bit impatient toward the end and just wanted to finish before I broke something =p

Now I've got the bug, though, and I don't have anything else to make or fix...
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