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Beyerdynamic DT880 *closed-back* - Page 22

post #316 of 331
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoXter View Post


Thats a property of the modded superlux housings Nickchen used. Usually isolation and sound leakage is better.

 


...to the disadvantage of Soundscaüe & airyness...

 

 

post #317 of 331

^ Indeed the Beyerlux / DT880cbs have very good soundstage, even compared to most open cans. T1s are not significantly better in terms of soundstage, clarity and speed/resolution, based on my memory listening to the same reference songs.

post #318 of 331

NoXter's clamps hard and isolates brutally, the SS is only work-to-rule hence...

post #319 of 331
Thread Starter 

Indeed no soundstage king, but still on a level that you don't miss something all the time. 

post #320 of 331

Hello folks, I just got my DT880 Edition 600ohm (non-pro) today.

I am not sure if I am doing something wrong or the headband has got no locking mechanism? They just move around easily like mad and I had to readjust it every single time I take the headphone off my head. 

If that is the design of it..I am thoroughly disappointed. I have a DT1350 and I love it, sturdy and it feels so damn solid so I went and buy DT880 but, I am certainly not impressed with it.

 

Also, I tried searching this thread for "Metal tabs" but nothing was found so maybe I can ask now, what's the metal tabs (that are not present on the Pro version) on the headphone for? purely cosmetic purpose? I thought it's for locking the headband in place or something lol.

 

EDIT:-

Ah I am too, awared of the headband deteriorating issue, is there anything I can do to prevent it from happening? :/


Edited by awyongcarl - 10/13/11 at 5:09pm
post #321 of 331
Quote:
Originally Posted by awyongcarl View Post

Hello folks, I just got my DT880 Edition 600ohm (non-pro) today.

I am not sure if I am doing something wrong or the headband has got no locking mechanism? They just move around easily like mad and I had to readjust it every single time I take the headphone off my head. 

If that is the design of it..I am thoroughly disappointed. I have a DT1350 and I love it, sturdy and it feels so damn solid so I went and buy DT880 but, I am certainly not impressed with it.

 

Also, I tried searching this thread for "Metal tabs" but nothing was found so maybe I can ask now, what's the metal tabs on the headphone for? purely cosmetic purpose? I thought it's for locking the headband in place or something lol.

 

EDIT:-

Ah I am too, awared of the headband deteriorating issue, is there anything I can do to prevent it from happening? :/



Yes, same with my DT880, and I find it very irritating. Every time I have to re-adjust the height of the cups. One side is worse than the other.

 

Don't know what the metal tabs are for. Looks?

 

Best way to prefend the headband to detoriate is to lay them down after using, and not hang them on something.

 

post #322 of 331

The dt880 driver fit into a Superlux HD330, right? Want to fit a 600ohm drive into a hd330 oder hd660. Can I use stock DT880 cap on any of them? As I like tight punch bass with impact do you guys think they would benefit from J$ pads? Really loved them on my 250ohm.

 

Is it possible to fit a beyer T1 driver into any other can? They sell for 150 here and could be a real bargain.

Red the could fit into a JVC RX700/900 but not sure.


Edited by HumanSaurusRex - 1/17/13 at 2:55pm
post #323 of 331

It weird how this thread just halted from the original 3 that seem to be pioneering this. Any updates and newer versions done? I'm thinking of trying this mod.

Couple of questions, if I use the speaker backing on the cups and put the duct tape over them, I'll still need to install the felt? Or did the alubutyl replace having to put the felt?

post #324 of 331

^

If you mean the part under How to improve isolation:

 

That's were you start if you want maximum isolation.

And yes, the felt is still necessary to dampen the cups.

You can skip the taping of course, but after the isolation improvement steps, you go from step 2.5 tot step 6.

If I understand it correctly.

post #325 of 331

I'm still trying to wrap my mind around the soundstage claim. So by isolating the headphones, the soundstage is improved? Is it in a sense of a more realistic soundstage and not wider? I've always thought the semi-open improved soundstage but kept the bass somewhat tight.

I have this idea of stiffening up the plastic behind the driver with epoxy and leaving the openings as is. The idea is from Senns opting for aluminum backing on their Amperiors over the HD25-IIs plastic, hardened backing greatly improved their sonic quality from what I make of it. The goal is to improve the bass. I would also do the felt mods to try and add warmth. If the epoxy idea doesn't work out, then I can go back and put the tape. Thoughts?

post #326 of 331
I did this mod earlier today and I tried it with the left ear cup driver first, then compared the stock (right cup) vs left cup (closed). I did notice some more bass impact on the closed but the midrange was very recessed in comparison to the stock ear cup, there was also loss of detail. Maybe I didn't do it right like you did, but that's my result.
Anyway, I switched back to the stock.
post #327 of 331
Quote:
Originally Posted by xkonfuzed View Post

I did this mod earlier today and I tried it with the left ear cup driver first, then compared the stock (right cup) vs left cup (closed). I did notice some more bass impact on the closed but the midrange was very recessed in comparison to the stock ear cup, there was also loss of detail. Maybe I didn't do it right like you did, but that's my result.
Anyway, I switched back to the stock.

 

Well, it's obvious you get an unbalanced sound with this method.

I think it's better to do the full mod on both cups. It's also very important to use DT770 ear pads then, or leather pads.

post #328 of 331
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiemen View Post

Well, it's obvious you get an unbalanced sound with this method.
I think it's better to do the full mod on both cups. It's also very important to use DT770 ear pads then, or leather pads.

I think that's where I went wrong. I used the stock DT880 pads, my bad.
post #329 of 331

Does the T90 microvelour earpads fit on the DT880?

post #330 of 331
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoXter View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by YGingras View Post
I was under the impression that DT-880 2005 had more or less the same driver as DT-770 but that the improved response curved of the 880 was entirely due to the open design. How would you compare your closed back DT-880 to DT-770?
The drivers of DT880 and DT770 seem to be similar, but at least they're not the same. Imo Dt770 is a closed version of DT990, respectively DT990 a open version of DT770.

The closed-back DT880 is a complete different headphone compared to DT770. Deeper and more precise bass, no recessed mids (they're better than stock DT880), no sharp highs and it has a much more warmer tone.

This was one of Nickchens and my concerns when we closed the DT880, that it is just some kind of DT770. But it isn't. It is now more something like a Sennbeyer.

I am about to get a pair of DT 880 pro 250 ohm tomorrow whenever the mail gets here. I wanted to ask if you still sugges this mod because it has been a while since it was initially done. I am using a pair of DT990s, Senn HD595, Soundmagic HP100(best closed under 300$ that I have tried) and am going to be saving to get the HP200 from soundmagic because it was directly compared with punch for punch with the HD650 but for a cheaper price point. I wanted to ask if you think the  DT880s sound good without the mod, because I do prefer more sound stage and airiness to my headphones.

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