CTH Casework Build Notes
There were saw dusts flying in the workshop today when I started cutting away some wood for my CTH
BTW, please note that this build is only meant to share the workflow I use when I build wood cases for my projects. This is not meant to be a guide since I’m nowhere near an expert in this area. As a matter of fact, I am kind of embarrassed doing this alone. I really wish others would follow suit and post some of their work in here also as I continue with this build. I would even entertain anyone to share their very first Altoids case
Please ask any questions in case I didn't explain something or provided enough details on any specific steps here. My hope is for others to get some inspiration out of this or catch a few ideas if ever they decide to build their own simple homemade case out of wood.The Box:
I wanted the case size to be 5”W x 7.5 “L x 2”H.
The wood I chose for this case is Poplar which is a hard wood. You can find them at Home Depot and they’re not very expensive. I’m using my compound miter saw to cut the miter joints. I started with the front and back pieces first. I measured 5” (twice!), marked with pencil, and then cut.Tip
: When I’m cutting more than one piece to the same length, I use a stop block (it's the scrap dark stained wood) clamped to the miter saw fence to ensure length consistency. I clamped the stop block to the fence, making sure the distance from the block and the blade is identical to the length of the front piece I cut previously. I then repeated the same process for the side pieces.
Here's a matched pair!
As much as possible, I try to set the blade as true as I can to 45 degrees since it's the only way I can get that tight miter joint look. Finally, all sides complete!
Next step is I wanted to recessed the knob. The alum knob I have for this amp is about 48mm (just shy of 2”) -- I like huge knobs
. My 2” Forstner Bit is perfect for this job.
I setup my drill press depth to just leave enough wood on this front panel for the nut to catch the threading of the pot.
I clamped a scrap piece of wood to support the piece and to prevent it from rotating. After finding the center, I drilled the hole slowly and carefully. I don't overdrive the bit into the hard wood or it will end up burning the wood and/or could damage the Forstner bit. I have a set of them but they can get quite a bit pricey.
Once the recessed hole had been drilled, I kept the wood in place so that the hole remains centered on the drill press. Changed the bit to a ¼” drill bit and continued to drill through the rest of the wood.
Next time, I’ll be trimming the box height down to 2 /14”, finish the remaining holes at the back for the power switch, fuse, and input/output jacks, etc., then rabbet the inside edges with a table router. The top and bottom lids will also get done next time. I’ll be doing them like the SOHA II using MDF wood.
Thanks for reading
(Continue to Part II