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Casework: Share Your DIY Enclosures - Page 6

post #76 of 400
Tube sockets are the teflon composites from PcX (and one of the Asian vendors, but PcX is cheaper)... the torroid is a potted custom winding from SumR. And, yes it has a real case being fabbed... sadly in aluminum, not (yet) wood. Once it all works (and is cased properly), I'll discuss it more.
post #77 of 400
Thread Starter 

CTH Casework Build Notes

There were saw dusts flying in the workshop today when I started cutting away some wood for my CTH case.

BTW, please note that this build is only meant to share the workflow I use when I build wood cases for my projects. This is not meant to be a guide since I’m nowhere near an expert in this area. As a matter of fact, I am kind of embarrassed doing this alone. I really wish others would follow suit and post some of their work in here also as I continue with this build. I would even entertain anyone to share their very first Altoids case

Please ask any questions in case I didn't explain something or provided enough details on any specific steps here. My hope is for others to get some inspiration out of this or catch a few ideas if ever they decide to build their own simple homemade case out of wood.

The Box:
I wanted the case size to be 5”W x 7.5 “L x 2”H.

The wood I chose for this case is Poplar which is a hard wood. You can find them at Home Depot and they’re not very expensive. I’m using my compound miter saw to cut the miter joints. I started with the front and back pieces first. I measured 5” (twice!), marked with pencil, and then cut.

Tip: When I’m cutting more than one piece to the same length, I use a stop block (it's the scrap dark stained wood) clamped to the miter saw fence to ensure length consistency. I clamped the stop block to the fence, making sure the distance from the block and the blade is identical to the length of the front piece I cut previously. I then repeated the same process for the side pieces.

Here's a matched pair!

As much as possible, I try to set the blade as true as I can to 45 degrees since it's the only way I can get that tight miter joint look. Finally, all sides complete!

Next step is I wanted to recessed the knob. The alum knob I have for this amp is about 48mm (just shy of 2”) -- I like huge knobs . My 2” Forstner Bit is perfect for this job.

I setup my drill press depth to just leave enough wood on this front panel for the nut to catch the threading of the pot.

I clamped a scrap piece of wood to support the piece and to prevent it from rotating. After finding the center, I drilled the hole slowly and carefully. I don't overdrive the bit into the hard wood or it will end up burning the wood and/or could damage the Forstner bit. I have a set of them but they can get quite a bit pricey.

Once the recessed hole had been drilled, I kept the wood in place so that the hole remains centered on the drill press. Changed the bit to a ¼” drill bit and continued to drill through the rest of the wood.

Next time, I’ll be trimming the box height down to 2 /14”, finish the remaining holes at the back for the power switch, fuse, and input/output jacks, etc., then rabbet the inside edges with a table router. The top and bottom lids will also get done next time. I’ll be doing them like the SOHA II using MDF wood.

Thanks for reading

(Continue to Part II)
post #78 of 400
Awesome work zk, I like your process. I wish my shop was as neat and tidy
post #79 of 400
Thread Starter 
Thanks smeggy -- only neat and tidy if I have no projects on the go, right now it's a mess in there
post #80 of 400
Heh, I was just messing with my rotozip fitted with a circle guide base plate and a 1" bowl router bit. Very nice and quick. Not ideal and a bit jerry rigged but works very well and accurately for cups.
post #81 of 400
zk, you're in Toronto! Your miter cuts look perfect, very nice work!
post #82 of 400
Well, you've inspired me. I'm building a chipamp for my speakers and I'll have a go at a nice wooden case. The progress pictures are great, really neat work. They also make me wish I had a drill press, and a decent place to work, but I don't really have anywhere to keep a nice bench and machines. I have a neighbour who builds boats and I know he has a table saw, I must check if he has drill press too.

I can put up some pictures of my past casework, but they're not quite as spectacular as the ones posted so far .
post #83 of 400
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by smeggy View Post
Heh, I was just messing with my rotozip fitted with a circle guide base plate and a 1" bowl router bit. Very nice and quick. Not ideal and a bit jerry rigged but works very well and accurately for cups.
- Very clever, whatever works smeggy
How do you hold the cup to stay still as you route around it with a circle guide?

- Thanks thefragger, I'm in Toronto indeed and so are you! Perfect weather to be outdoors these days huh?

- elliot42, cool chipamp. Did not know about the amp until now, marked down on my to do list.. thanks
You really should build the case, it's a lot of fun. They're just basic simple box designs, nothing elaborate as opposed to those amazing looking aluminum/metal caseworks I've seen under the build gallery. Sadly there's hardly any "How its' Made" type of posts though
post #84 of 400
Originally Posted by zkool448 View Post
- Very clever, whatever works smeggy
How do you hold the cup to stay still as you route around it with a circle guide?
I bought a Jasper small circle jig, aligned it with the roto with the centering pin and glued them together.

From there I drill the pilot hole for the guide pin into a board. Measure a 3.5" OD from pin to cutter edge with the bowl bit and rout the insides out with a nice inner radius.

Change bit to a 1/4 straight bit and set the ID to 4" and cut the cup out, then finish the outside on the lathe.
post #85 of 400
Thread Starter 
good one smeggy.

With lathes, that's one tool i never had a pleasure to use. Wondering if I can get by with something like this (for now) to do just basic turning? How much on average to the "real" ones cost?

Besides the beautiful cups you make, it'd also be awesome to make some custom casefeet or wooden knobs.
post #86 of 400
the one I got was $180 from amazon. It's small and not particularly great but it does the job.

psi turmcrafter pro

I'm actually looking for small and cheap plunge router 1/4" shaft size. I have two fixed base ones but I really need a plunger. Wish this stuff didn't cost so much.
post #87 of 400
Thread Starter 
Just did a quick browse around and did come accross that one, price does seem reasonable.

I have a fixed base as well, but my Porter-Cable could have the optional plunge base attachment that allows one to switch between plunger/fixed.
post #88 of 400
I put the boards for the chipamp together the other night and just have to wire it up to have a listen. I'll probably be able to have a go at building a case the weekend after next. I have no problem cutting square pieces, but I don't have any tools to do any fancy cuts. I'd like to be able to do mitred joints, route holes and grooves, etc. I was also building a light box for my mum, but it's been on hold for a while as I haven't been able to route grooves to slide perspex into
post #89 of 400
That lathe looks like the standard midi lathe. 18" between centers and swings 10" diameter. I have the Delta midi lathe. Woodcraft had another one. they all cost around $180-$200. that's just the beginning. you will need a 4 jaw chuck, a set of chisels and optionally (i use it all the time), a jacobs chuck for the tailstock. The chisels cost on the order of $40 each. Plan on a rough gouge, a spindle gouge, a parting tool, a round nose chisel, a square nose chisel, and a tool or tools to keep the chisels razor sharp. Really, the minimum investment to get into using a lathe is near $500.

Skip that drill motor lathe. it will just turn you off on using a lathe.
post #90 of 400
Yeah, I have way more cash in the other bits than the lathe itself. However, it does make a good multi-tool if you don't mind risking life and limb
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