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Casework: Share Your DIY Enclosures - Page 22

post #316 of 400
WOW I like the lines! As expected, another fine job Joel!


What are your plans for the colour scheme?
post #317 of 400
ZK - what are you planning on doing with the top as far as finish? Also, how are you attaching the top to the rest of the case? I'm trying to figure out what to do with the top of mine.
post #318 of 400
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by balderon View Post
What are your plans for the colour scheme?
Thanks Jeff! No I’ve not decided on the color scheme yet. I’ll check the auto paint aisles see what color combo catches my eye

Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
ZK - what are you planning on doing with the top as far as finish? Also, how are you attaching the top to the rest of the case? I'm trying to figure out what to do with the top of mine.
Top plate will be painted with high heat enamel then poly/lacquer top coat. I’m using head screws to mount the top plate to corner triangle blocks with nut inserts.



If the wood case was a hard wood, the quick easy way is tapped holes to the case fame like I did the CTH top lid.

post #319 of 400
Ahh, nice. Another question. I made a frame for the "panel" for the top of the DAC enclosure I'm making. I thought the miters were tight but when i turned it over after gluing, turns out there's a small gap at one joint. Any way to hide/fix it?

EDIT: The frame is made of 1x2 birch so you have an idea of the size of the joint. The gap is probably on the order of 1/32".
post #320 of 400
Hi zkool448, I am always impress by your case building skill. If I have the skill like yours, I am surely could make a living out of it. Well done.
post #321 of 400
Search this thread for "goop" in a posting by me. I posted near the beginning the method I use which works very well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
Ahh, nice. Another question. I made a frame for the "panel" for the top of the DAC enclosure I'm making. I thought the miters were tight but when i turned it over after gluing, turns out there's a small gap at one joint. Any way to hide/fix it?

EDIT: The frame is made of 1x2 birch so you have an idea of the size of the joint. The gap is probably on the order of 1/32".
post #322 of 400
Cool, thanks. I also read about putting a little glue in the gap and then sanding over it so the dust from sanding fills the void with the glue. I'll try it and post pics.
post #323 of 400
I've found that the best is to mix it on a scrap of something and apply the "paste" to the work. Work it into the joint as well as you can; the deeper the better. Too much glue and it won't match. Too little and it will just flake away. you're looking for something the consistency of drywall spackle.
post #324 of 400
does it take a finish well? i'm going to use tung oil.
post #325 of 400
I've not used tung oil, but Boiled Linseed Oil works well so I suspect Tung will work well too.
post #326 of 400
Make a good little pile of sawdust (easy if you have a jointer or belt sander), further grind the dust with you fingers, pestle or a small blender, then use a toothpick or paper clip to force glue into the gap, then push in the sawdust. The hope is that the glue will adhere on the bottom, and leave mostly wood exposed. You can repeat the process, then sand back down. This will help give the most uniforn finish surface especially with oil finish.

I save almost all my exotic wood dust in coffee cans, so I always have something close.
post #327 of 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by pabbi1 View Post
I save almost all my exotic wood dust in coffee cans, so I always have something close.
That's a great idea.

Hmm, If you have enough, I wonder if you could have someone press some of that into board form? Might be a REALLY interesting pattern/grain.

Then again, maybe not. Still, might be an interesting piece of material for sure.

jk
post #328 of 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdkJake View Post
That's a great idea.

Hmm, If you have enough, I wonder if you could have someone press some of that into board form? Might be a REALLY interesting pattern/grain.

Then again, maybe not. Still, might be an interesting piece of material for sure.

jk
Yeah, I probably have 2-3 lbs of rosewood, koa, limba, walnut and pine (plywood) dust in my shop vac, sadly along with a little bit of aluminum shavings, but, if someone wants it, I'll certainly send a big baggie full.
post #329 of 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
does it take a finish well? i'm going to use tung oil.
tung oil even takes to Liquid Nails and epoxy .
post #330 of 400
that looks too nice, zk, as usual.
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