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Casework: Share Your DIY Enclosures - Page 21

post #301 of 400
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kuroguy View Post
I have one and find it terribly difficult to get perfectly straight lines, even with a fence on the scroll saw.

I've used a table saw before, but the length of the side of the rectangle needs to be near or greater than the diameter of the blade. Works ok with my mini table saw, but I'm usually working blind.

Do you use that nice router table to cut rectangles or do you make a template?
Kuroguy, no I didn’t use a template but I’ll describe how the face plate came to be.

First I carefully machined the face plate ‘slopes’ on each side and the middle which I thought was the difficult part because the router bit left a bunch of ‘lines’ behind. I had to sand a lot and made sure the surface was absolutely flat. After that I recessed the holes for the knobs, then marked and drilled the HP jack and Bulgin switch holes. 2-3 hours later, I realized the next step was going to be even harder which is cutting out the rectangle window for the vu meters. I knew that if I screwed up at that point, all the work I just did would’ve been wasted. So I carefully laid out the measurements of the VU on the face plate, used the table router along with stop blocks, guides and clamps, and the router fence then I slowly routed out the inside rectangle as precisely as I possibly could. I kept my hands steady and the fact that I didn’t want to have to start over from scratch, I really took my time doing it. I think the secret is patience and go at it real slow while trying to stay within the lines.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdkJake View Post
Do you find MDF difficult to work with? I found it cuts easy, but, also chips easy if you are not careful. Any advice?

How are you going to finish it? (if you don't mind me asking)
jdkJake, actually I find working with MDF easier than regular hard wood. I just make sure that I use really sharp saw blades and/or router bits.

The finish will be done the same way as I did the top lids for my SOHA II and CTH (see my sig). cheers.
post #302 of 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by zkool448 View Post
2-3 hours later, I realized the next step was going to be even harder which is cutting out the rectangle window for the vu meters.
My thoughts exactly. It is without a doubt, the most difficult part of machining the faceplate for me.
Quote:
So I carefully laid out the measurements of the VU on the face plate, used the table router along with stop blocks, guides and clamps, and the router fence...
I assume you used a straight bit to do the cutting. Was that an 1/8" bit you used?

Quote:
jdkJake, actually I find working with MDF easier than regular hard wood.
That's probably because MDF doesn't have a grain to it.
post #303 of 400
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kuroguy View Post
My thoughts exactly. It is without a doubt, the most difficult part of machining the faceplate for me.

I assume you used a straight bit to do the cutting. Was that an 1/8" bit you used?
Straight bit yes, but used the Freud 1/4" since it was my favorite/sharpest I have

I'm pretty happy with the result, but in your opinion do you think using an exacto knife first to outline the rectangle cut before routing it out would've yielded to better/sharper edges? I'll have to try that on a piece of scrap next time I'm in the shop.
post #304 of 400
I doubt you would get a better edge by starting the cuts with an exacto blade. My understanding is that MDF dulls edges faster than hardwood. My guess is that if you are getting any tearout the solution lies with a bit that is sharper than the one you used.

By the way, I've had good results (by that, I mean less of a pain getting it right) with a router and fence followed up with a "Scary Sharp" wood chisel to clean up the corners.
post #305 of 400
modded a too-small case to fit the EHHA, S22 and Pico DAC.







I had to make the case about 1/2" taller inside to accommodate the board sinks.

Paduac front and side strips, lacquered and tint toned with brown lacquer at the edges/ends. Case painted with black appliance enamel.

Not the best fit 'n' finish but I'm always in a rush. Still need to finish up the wiring inside.
post #306 of 400
Thread Starter 
ahhh, clever. I have a not so tall case I could have used but only if I saw this idea weeks earlier -- dang!

Looks good as usual smeggy! true DIY case design
post #307 of 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by smeggy View Post
modded a too-small case to fit the EHHA, S22 and Pico DAC.
Cool...nipples...
post #308 of 400
The Hafler amp on your desk brings back memories. That was my first attempt at building.

I love the small of solder.

Nice work on the HP amp!
post #309 of 400
Thread Starter 
A few more trims and cuts, add vent holes to top and bottom plate then PLENTY of sanding (not looking forward to) before she can be finished/painted.

Pic of dry fit/progress of the Bijou MDF casework...

post #310 of 400
looking damn nice as always Joel

Can't wait to see it finished!
post #311 of 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by zkool448 View Post
A few more trims and cuts, add vent holes to top and bottom plate then PLENTY of sanding (not looking forward to) before she can be finished/painted.

Pic of dry fit/progress of the Bijou MDF casework...
Dude The tube layout isn't symmetrical!! I've lost all respect for your work!


'course I'm kidding... very nice retro feel and a nice extension of your previous work!
post #312 of 400
Just when I thought my Bijou may be the belle of the ball, you have to come up with that...



Seriously, that's a very nice job - has a very sleek retro aesthetic going for it.

Regarding Forstner bits, how much of a difference does it make to use a not-so-pricy set from someone like Porter Cable or Grizzly rather than Freud, in your experience?
post #313 of 400
Joel, that is nice. Very nice.
post #314 of 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoodySteve View Post
Regarding Forstner bits, how much of a difference does it make to use a not-so-pricy set from someone like Porter Cable or Grizzly rather than Freud, in your experience?
If you can, I'd recommend getting BORMAX bits, way better and faster than any other Forstner style bit I've come across. They are more costly but they are so fast, clean and more heat resistant they more than pay for themselves in ease of use. The slice through the wood like crazy.
post #315 of 400
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys!

Feels like I’ve been building this case forever . It has been exasperating ...but after reading your nice compliments you've made it all worth the effort - cheers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MoodySteve View Post
how much of a difference does it make to use a not-so-pricy set from someone like Porter Cable or Grizzly rather than Freud, in your experience?
Unfortunately I've not tried any other brands. I've had the Freuds for over 6-7 years and they're still very good. I've used them a lot not only for recessing or through holes but usually for starter/guide holes before I take the wood to the router table.
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