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Casework: Share Your DIY Enclosures - Page 18

post #256 of 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
Argh! I need to upgrade my blade too!? I've only made a few cuts with my stock blade, but it seems pretty good so far. Do I need a finer toothed one for cleaner cuts? Dado set is on the way already.
In general yes. Depending on the power of you table's motor, you might want to check out some of the thin kerf blades that are available. They cut through harder/thicker woods with more ease, lightening up the load on the motor.

I spend the money up front and get CMT, Amana or Freud blades. It's good to have one that deals with riping, one for cross cuts and one for plywood. I'm doing an acrylic enclosure for my Beta22 and have a Freud Plastic Blade on order (non melt, triple chip with a negative 3 degree rake).

By the way, Simple Green diluted 1 part Simple Green to 4 parts water makes an excellent cleaner to remove pitch and resin from blades and router bits.
post #257 of 400
I think my 10" blade has about 80 carbide teeth. My 3-3/8" blade has 40 carbide teeth.
post #258 of 400
Thread Starter 
More new stuff learned, great tips guys.

oneplustwo, I think your tool inventory is growing rather well based on your recent purchases – I envy you With what you have (and more arriving soon) I’m convinced you’re headed towards Norm Abram’s standards within weeks. Too bad I can only do woodwork when weather permits, during winter in the garage is no fun without heat, a heated shop would be nice to have.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DoYouRight View Post
zkool are you building your way up through Cavalli? I think you have the skill to skip to the best models now. Or do you want progression? And any chance youll do a B22?
It appears that way doesn’t it

Actually (off-topic but since you asked), I’ve experienced and enjoyed solid state amps both owned and acquired by friends (some are ‘audiophile grade’, a/v, home theatre, etc.), but when I first heard the sound of tubes/valves it’s when I became more fascinated. For me, I knew the sonic qualities of tubes are the right sound that my ears long sought for, and ever since I centered my attention to tubes/hybrids type of projects only. I really wish this building ‘addiction’ would stop as its breaking my checkbook. Eventually I’ll end up rotating between 5-6 HP amps after my current project. I could sell a couple but I don’t think I want to - to me they’re all equally special and more importantly I built them myself
post #259 of 400
If only... still need a router and router table. A planer and vacuum system would be nice. Band saw? Jig saw? Drum sander? Belt sander? A bunch of pipe clamps? *sigh* The list goes on and on.
post #260 of 400
You noticed..
post #261 of 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by zkool448 View Post
Too bad I can only do woodwork when weather permits, during winter in the garage is no fun without heat, a heated shop would be nice to have.
Summer is a bit tough for me. it was 96 degrees here today. I can only use the shop late at night with the garage door open. By the way, the Florida state bird is the mosquito.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
If only... still need a router and router table. A planer and vacuum system would be nice. Band saw? Jig saw? Drum sander? Belt sander? A bunch of pipe clamps? *sigh* The list goes on and on.
Regarding the planer, they only create a constant thickness board. A planer will not ensure that a board is flat. A jointer is required to to make the surface flat. That being said, it is of no use having a planer that is wider than your jointer unless you purchase S3S wood.

You can easily get buy without a band saw for a long time unless you plan to resaw wood (to make thinner planks like two 3/8" thick boards from a single 4/4 board). I'd put this tool way down on the list.

Skip the jig saw too (although you can get one for $50) and get a scroll saw. It is much easier to make accurate cuts and you can clamp a fence to the table to make straight cuts with it. A suitable one can be had for $99.

Regarding the drum sander, You can attach a sanding drum to a drill press and the I guarantee you'll use a drill press more than a drum sander.

I must say that a belt sander is quite useful. get a bench sander with a high speed disk on it. I use the disk sander to tune up miter cuts all the time. It is very accurate.

TIP: purchase a couple of 45/45/90 triangles from the art supply and use them to set your miter gages exactly 90 degrees or 45 degrees to the sanding disk/table saw blade.

For clamps I said before I use rubber bands, shock cord, and binder clips. You can get enough for pretty much any project for less than $20. I also have a nail gun and use it to attach scraps of wood to a scrap of melamine board to aid in assembly. That, some bands or shock cord, and a plastic bag between the work to prevent it from sticking to the wood clamps works great for the stuff I do. I've attached a photo showing how I do this.
LL
post #262 of 400
Thanks for the perspective. I think I may play with the toys I already have for a while and figure out where to go from there. The router and router table will probably be the next item on my list. I do have an old POS craftsman router from about 10 years ago that I might be able to resurrect and put it to good use. Still need to figure out if I want to build or buy a router table though.

A scroll saw and sanding drum are pretty small and not too expensive so they might be next. Belt/disc sander might be something I start shopping for and if I find a good deal, I might pull the trigger. Eventually, I'll have to have some output from all these toys though.
post #263 of 400
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
The router and router table will probably be the next item on my list..<snip>...Still need to figure out if I want to build or buy a router table though.
You already have all the tools to DIY it. Some ideas here and also the tracks/accessories available online, rest are all from scrap hard wood.
post #264 of 400
Could someone help me with ideas for my B22 case. I want to use the same as FallenAngel/KrMathis that AMB designed himself. Just wider to accomodate 6 boards instead of 4. I would love your ideas for modifications to those, zkool
post #265 of 400
hay guys i just finished my millet SS with a wooden case. here it is:






BTW i call em' "Old Happy Guy" lol
post #266 of 400
zkool - your router table looks awesome. especially since it is incorporated into your table saw table. how much space does it take up? is it removable/storable? do you happen to have plans for it? i'm a dummy when it comes to dreaming up stuff but I can follow directions ok. basically, i'm like a moderately smart monkey.
post #267 of 400
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoYouRight View Post
Could someone help me with ideas for my B22 case. I want to use the same as FallenAngel/KrMathis that AMB designed himself. Just wider to accomodate 6 boards instead of 4. I would love your ideas for modifications to those, zkool
Whoa, you're doing a 6-board version? sweet.

I highly recommend browsing through AMB's β22 gallery if you want to get ideas and see some of the most amazing looking b22 cases ever made -- you'll quickly agree their designs do not require any or further modifications IMO .

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobfig View Post
hay guys i just finished my millet SS with a wooden case.
BTW i call em' "Old Happy Guy" lol
bobfig, as I mentioned in the ss thread i just love this little happy guy
Do you have any info and what tools needed to build the case?

Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
zkool - your router table looks awesome. especially since it is incorporated into your table saw table. how much space does it take up? is it removable/storable? do you happen to have plans for it? i'm a dummy when it comes to dreaming up stuff but I can follow directions ok. basically, i'm like a moderately smart monkey.
I got the initial design from a Shopnotes mag article, then added the different variations I picked up on the web and incorporated them all to mine (built it over 6 years ago). If you search for router table, you will find plenty of ideas and plans and also some suggestions whether you should build or buy (example). My table is fixed and 24" deep (particle board/melamine sheet stock from home depot) and edged treated with oak. It cannot be collapsed or stored away unfortunately.

I'd suggest to go with an adjustable and taller fence for those vertical routing. You can opt for a router plate insert (check for compatibility with your router model) which you'll have to inlay on the surface, or even better (depending on your budget) get a Jessem lift as listen2this recommends. The tracks are definitely a must which provide the adjustability/flexibility and ease when adding accessories to both the table and fence.
post #268 of 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by zkool448 View Post


bobfig, as I mentioned in the ss thread i just love this little happy guy
Do you have any info and what tools needed to build the case?
that whole thing was just made with 5 tools: table saw, drill press, scroll saw, router, and sander. it was pretty easy to make because the wood i got from HD was already finished smooth and i just had to cut it into pieces.
post #269 of 400
There are some really fantastic set-ups here. I ran a cabinet shop for years. I may need to try my hand at this.
post #270 of 400
Due to little free time this is another rush job, bought the wood this morning and set to it as time allowed. Beta 22 in generic steel case with canarywood and a marble tile.





It was a busy day using just the table saw and a sander/elbow grease. 1 coat of sanding sealer and two coats of satin laquer.

Still need to do the sides and clean the rest up but it's working out ok so far. Never tried canarywood before, pretty easy to work with but has a deep grain to it so shiny finishes look sucky unless you have time to fill all the grain.
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