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Casework: Share Your DIY Enclosures - Page 16

post #226 of 400
I've noticed you've got alot of camera skills . And hopefully you'll be able to post some log pictures but I understand that it's annoying when you get interrupted in your work to make pictures.
Also, you never post your bloopers , don't you make them or do you just want to make everyone believe that you're just a woodgod.
post #227 of 400
Thread Starter 
haha I can't let out my secret

But seriously I've made way more mistakes than I'd like to admit. Since I began using cad/sketchup I've made far less mistakes like I used to.
post #228 of 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
... still need a throat plate.
I make zero clearance inserts with a thickness planer and scroll saw. Tell your wife the planer and scroll saw will pay for themselves in the money you'll save by making your own inserts.

Don't tell her it will actually take about thirty inserts to break even and you just might pull this one off.

Never lose sight of the goal. You can never have too many power tools.
post #229 of 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
zkool, any tips on staining?
This may sound strange, but I don't use stain. In order to achieve different colors I choose different types of wood. I think a good piece of wood should be shown off instead of covered up with stain. I prefer to leave my wood natural. It does change color as it ages. Usually warmer.

I can tell you I've tried many different clear finishes and finally settled on lacquer. Here are the things I've tried and what I didn't like:

Water based polyurethane is typically aplied with a brush. It didn't go on smooth and I was never able to achieve a truly high gloss.

Polyurethane tends to yellow with age. I prefer the natural wood color.

MInwax is expensive and takes too long to dry. As a result it is more likely that something will land on it while it is still wet.

Shellac has a color to it which changes as you add more coats.

I chose lacquer because it stays clear, dries fast (like 30 minutes max between coats), and is very easy to apply with an airbrush.

I thin it between 1:1 and 1 part thinner to 2 parts lacquer. the object is to get it thin enough to spray and use enough air pressure to evaporate enough of the thinner so that the lacquer is thick enough when it hits the wood that it doesn't run but still wet enough so it can smooth out and not leave an orange peel texture. I shoot with a $40 coarse external mix brush at about 45 PSI. Lacquer is very forgiving. it is very easy to determine how thin it needs to be. I've even sprayed thinner on the prior coat to smooth out an orange peel texture rather than remove the finish and start over. Beyond that all I can say is practice a bit before you go for the real deal.

The other advice is to sand, sand, and sand. Start with coarse and work through every size up to 600 or even 1500. I do 1500. What happens is the sandpaper creates scratches in the wood and the next finer sheet knocks down the prior paper's scratches. Of course, it creates its own set of scratches that you need to remove with the next finer paper. Skip a grit in the progression and you won't be able to remove the scratches from the prior sanding.

Also, Lacquer is too thin to fill gaps. Use goop (I've described this earlier) to fill gaps.

somewhere between 8 and 20 coats will be sufficient to fill up the grain of the wood. don't try to lay on thick layers or they won't harden completely.

I'm sure there is more, but I'm curently out of time.

Good luck,

Kuroguy
post #230 of 400
one last thing. 18 coats of lacquer fully hardens in about 6 weeks. I usually polish with buffing compound and a cotton cloth followed by a thin coat of wax after 6 weeks.
post #231 of 400
holy schneikes! 18 coats?! Is it necessary to use an airbrush? (I don't have one... yet. Although I have a small pancake cylinder (probably not enough volume for an airbrush?) on the way along with a set of nail guns. Another Rockler Porter Cable deal.) Maybe I'll give the minwax thing a try since I bought it already and it was only a small can anyway.

Quick question about sanding... do you just go through all the grits before applying stain/lacquer? Or do you sand in between coats as well?
post #232 of 400
Well Im going to build my a B22! With my uncles help of course, as he builds poweramps and everything just never in the realm of headphones just speakers.

So how much are the parts for this with good quality stuff?
post #233 of 400
lightly sand with 600 between coats.

your compressor will be fine for an airbrush.
post #234 of 400
and, oh yeah, I found that an air brush makes all the difference. Never a brush stroke on my finished boxes. Clarification on sanding between coats. Start with 2 coats of sanding sealer and sand with 600 after both coats. after that, no more sanding between coats. the lacquer will actually soften the prior coat and make it adhere better.
post #235 of 400
You guys have way more patience than me.
post #236 of 400
yes but why not use tons of patience for something you build yourself or build an enclosure thats so so for use while u build the MAGIC case for the final result
post #237 of 400
Thanks for the tips Kuroguy! A couple follow up questions.

1. Do you use a HVLP gun or something specific for lacquer? Any particular brand or model you recommend?
2. Are there specific lacquers you recommend also? Not sure if there's a lot of difference in the world of lacquer.
3. What in the world is sanding sealer?!

DoYouRight - I would highly recommend going with glassjaraudio.com for your first beta22 kit. It makes things much easier as Jeff does a great job with labeling everything and making sure you have everything you need. Otherwise, you'll have to source parts from probably 3 or 4 different vendors. Also, his prices are very reasonable.
post #238 of 400
I use a Paasche Model HS with a #5 tip and a 3 ounce bottle. This is actually the least expensive model Paasche makes. I got mine for $40 and could have done better on ebay.

When I was a kid I used to make sanding sealer by mixing dope (lacquer) with talc. It sands very easiy and more importantly, keeps the grain of the wood from standing up when you spray the lacquer. without it you'll NEVER get a really nice (mirror) finish. I get lacquer from the hardware store. Deft makes both lacquer and sanding sealer and sells it in 1 quart cans. The last box I did was 16"x24"x6" and I used almost a full quart of lacquer on it, so a quart isn't too much.

One more tip: I usually hold a droplight while shooting. without the light you can't tell if the lacquer is going on smoothly. you can see the reflection of the light bulb and it allows you to see if the lacquer is flowing together or not.

It really isn't that hard to get it right. In fact, I found Lacquer to be the easiest to get a consistently great finish. Just take your time, put on just enough lacquer to make it flow together, allow enough time to dry between coats, and add as many coats as you need to fill the grain evenly (usually between 8 and 18 and I always put on a few extra coats).

I do spend a lot of time on my cases. In my case, I made boxes before I built stereo equipment. I was looking for a way to combine my woodworking hobby with my electronics hobby. As a result, I try to do my best work with both hobbies.

Others may feel that woodworking is less important than the sound. There's absolutely nothing wrong with that or how they prefer to spend their hobby time. After all, this is primarily an audio forum.
post #239 of 400
Kuro, do you ever use analine dye with your lacquer? I just love surburst finish, and think that would be wild on a case. I heartily agree the art of casing with wood (or aluminum) gets the short shift in DIY.

That said, I just have to err on using expensive wood and tung oil, as my guitar finishing skills just never quite made it... except for a few salmon pink strats and a jazz bass.
post #240 of 400
Like I said, I never use any form of stain. Like my audio (not really), I prefer my wood uncolored.

Part of the fun I have with woodworking is visualizing how a particular wood (once aged to the final color) will look in combination with the other woods I use. Besides, It is near impossible to create clear, concise patterns with stain. Not so with different woods glued up in any pattern you want.

I do sometimes use Boiled Linseed oil (BLO) to finish projects. While the effect is completely different from Lacquer, it is extremely easy to use as it is applied with a rag and then after some amount of time it is wiped off and allowed to dry. BLO leaves a satin finish and requires reapplication over time (about every 6 months to a year). You won't get that ultra high gloss finish with BLO, in fact you won't get any gloss with BLO, but it does have its place. It also colors the wood, but not necessarily in a bad way. Example, Paduak starts out almost orange. With Lacquer and a relatively dark room it will stay orange. In light it ages to a really nice warm brown. With BLO it turns a deep red over time.
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