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Casework: Share Your DIY Enclosures - Page 8

post #106 of 400
I'll show off my brilliant casework for my chipamp:

Housed, for now, in cardboard

It sounds pretty good and has plenty of power for my bookshelves. I need to figure out what value pot/attenuator to get to give me enough range in volume, I'm using the very bottom of the 50k pot that's in there at the moment.
post #107 of 400
Thread Starter 
Your casework sure does look brilliant elliott! hahaha

I recall reading about a shunt pot trick here somewhere that should help with adding more range to your volume, or perhaps adding input (or output) resistors in series but I can't remember.

Anyway, it looks like you have lots of options you can do with casing up that nice chipamp of yours.. keep us posted. cheers.
post #108 of 400
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by thefragger View Post
One comment, and I really don't mean to take away from that great little case (love the way the volume knob is!) but I would've done the drilling operations in reverse; forstner first then the thru holes, for the sake of concentricity. The forstner leaves a little dimple in the centre which is perfect for drilling the thru hole.
Glad to know some people actually read my posts

I completely agree and you're absolutely right thefragger, thanks for pointing it out. To be honest, I have no clue why I worked on the back panel in that order. If you noticed, when I recessed the hole for the volume knob in Part 1 of this build, I did fortsner first then drilled the thru hole for the shaft. There's definitely inconsistencies in my work here ...Wait, I believe part of the reason is either I didn't have a drink that night, or it's because I wanted the vol knob to be near/exactly concentric to the recessed hole. Yes, that's it, and I'm sticking with it

Originally Posted by oneplustwo View Post
zk - do you have a special blade in your miter saw? the cuts seem very clean. Not sure if they're after sanding or if you have a fine tooth saw blade in there?
Yeah the cuts came out somewhat clean and quite happy with them, the pictures show the pieces as they were cut. Also note that hard wood (poplar, maple, oak, etc.) generally cut nicely Really nothing special with the blade, just using finer tooth versus a general purpose one. I sand only in the end when i'm ready to do the finishing/staining.
post #109 of 400
zk - I could read your posts 'till the cows come home! Great, clear photography plus concise descriptions of what you are doing. The pictures tell a good story as well. The picture showing how your routed out the back panel finally tells me how you manage to get good, square recesses. Make a Jig! Simple!

The local DIY stores here in the UK tend to stock green, soft pine. I really need to source some hard wood/finer tooth blade. THEN I might be able to to get the same type of clean cuts you do!

What did you use to remove the top of the front piece, allowing the volco to be exposed?

Anyway, you are inspiring lots of people here, keep posting, it's a pleasure to read!
post #110 of 400
post #111 of 400
not new but I did finally get around to putting the door viewer rings over the tubes

post #112 of 400

Are you gluing them down or are they just placed?
post #113 of 400

They are glued, luckily they are about the same diameter as the wee wooden washers I made as they give a nice contrast.
post #114 of 400
Thread Starter 
thanks Wilf The front/face was trimmed down with a table saw.

smeggy, nice to see the poplar burl Millett SS make another appearance, this time with cool blings! luv it. Me thinks you've just UP'ed the prices on these (http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/bli...1/#post5656690), I won't be surprised to see them out of stock soon
post #115 of 400
The top plate for my Bijou progressed over the weekend.

The blind holes that all PCBs will mount to were drilled ~.1875 deep into .250 aluminum, which should be much more than enough for a 4-40 tap. I really can't afford to botch this one up at this point so I'm going to order a tap handle and do it by hand instead of using my drill as usual.

The top was lapped with Timesaver to smooth it out, and the hole for the transformer wires was enlarged by quite a bit after I discovered that a 1" circular hole is not nearly enough to stuff all the wires from a Hammond 300 series transformer. The edges were also cleaned up.

And now I owe my friend who has all this equipment a *huge* favor.
post #116 of 400
Be sure to use cutting oil with that hand tap... just a bit of insurance. Very nice!
post #117 of 400
Thread Starter 
Looking good so far MoodySteve.

I understood all the steps you did for the top plate, until you said "lapped with Timesaver". I've no clue what that meant -- can you kindly elaborate?

Btw, my first metal work tool bits arrived today. My very first set of stepped drill bits
post #118 of 400
zkool, Timesaver is a lapping compound...it's pretty cool stuff. But I'm not sure if it's suitable for hand application.

At first it acts like a coarse abrasive, and as it continues to work it breaks down to a fine abrasive and then eventually a polishing abrasive.

pabbi1, I will be sure to use cutting oil when i do the taps - I've seen some get pretty gnarled up going into dry metal, even nice soft aluminum.

I was hugely relieved when I confirmed that the tube holes seem to be concentric with the tube socket regions on the PCBs, as you can imagine.
post #119 of 400
Here's my work area. You may recall I said I had 1/8th of a 2 car garage. Here's a photo of my saw collection (not the complete collection). From top left to right bottom you see my

Jointer ($65 at the fleamarket, $5 for a new set of cutters.)
belt sander (free)
Delta table saw ($99)
Jig saw ($30)
belt/disc sander ($99)
Scroll Saw ($99)
wet sharpener ($45)
mini table saw ($350)
Reciprocating Saw ($79)
Miter saw ($99)
A couple of circular saws, drill, dremel tool, etc. Bench tools can be stored in very little space.

Also attached is a photo of my very cluttered bench with my latest project on it. It isn't typically this cluttered but this project has required the use of many of my hand tools in no particular order so I haven't been keeping up with putting them all away as I finish with them. My wife has also invaded the garage with a project (not hi-fi related) and has contributed to the mess (mostly mine though). You can see the bench drill press (which gets a bunch of use) as well as the dremel drill press attachment. Notice the 3 duplex outlets on the bench? They are very easy to install/wire and a great timesaver. you can never have enough outlets on a bench.

Sort of a stranded on an island question; if I were told to get rid of all but 3 power tools I would keep the Mini Table Saw (although I used the larger one for several months when the mini saw needed a new belt and gears), the Drill Press, and the dremel tool (with router attachment). I believe I could build pretty much anything with these three power tools.

What three tools would you choose?
post #120 of 400
Not a pretty shop - mine is relegated to a corner of the garage, and has to be deployed once the car is moved out... sadder still is that lawn care is on the other side. Oh, and the surplus furniture... <sigh>.
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