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K1000 Recable Guide - Page 2

post #16 of 28
nice guide, fitz. recabled my k501 but wouldn't trust my skills on the k1000. should i ever come across another pair, though, who knows...
post #17 of 28
wow interesting !
thank you sharing.
post #18 of 28
Thanks for the guide with wonderful pics, Fitz.
post #19 of 28
Thread Starter 
I know I said I'd update this with info for the other style of PCB, but it looks like I never got around to it, whoops. Better late than never.

If your K1000 has the type of PCB where the solder posts are further apart and cannot both be heated at the same time by the iron, it can still be relatively easy to remove, and this method works on both types of PCBs. The solution is simply to use desoldering braid on each joint, being extra careful not to heat it for too long or let part of the very hot desoldering braid touch the driver and melt it. I'm going to repeat that because it is very important: do not heat the posts for more than a few seconds at a time, and always be mindful of where the desoldering braid is because it will go through the driver like a hot knife through butter.

Chances are even after multiple passes with the desoldering braid, it will still be stuck with solder in one or two spots. If it's just tiny spots, or you can't even see any but it doesn't come out freely, you can try gently rocking the PCB to cause those little bits of solder to flex and eventually break. The keyword here is "gently"; trying to force it can quickly turn a money-saving DIY project into a very expensive repair.

- - -

Also, if anybody wants more detail about any aspect of this, or has questions about other aspects of working on the K1000, feel free to ask them here or contact me by email.
post #20 of 28
Forgot to post ... i followed Fitz's guide and sucessfully hardwired my K1000s. Great guide Fitz, thanks for taking the time to help us :-)
Cheers
post #21 of 28
Going to recable my pair of K1000 soon. I'm going if there's any benefit of bypassing the PCB?
post #22 of 28
Very helpful to a future owner,thanks for taking the time to pass on your expertise.
post #23 of 28

Hello,

 

I have a K-1000 driver which is half working. It looks like a bad contact/solder between the driver and the cable. This tutorial would be very helpful to learn how to access to this connection, but the images (from imageshak) are not available anymore.

 

Would you of another tuto where the images would still be available ?

 

Kind regards,

 

JMF 

post #24 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmf View Post
 

Hello,

 

I have a K-1000 driver which is half working. It looks like a bad contact/solder between the driver and the cable. This tutorial would be very helpful to learn how to access to this connection, but the images (from imageshak) are not available anymore.

 

Would you of another tuto where the images would still be available ?

 

Kind regards,

 

JMF 

 

I will look and see if I still have the original images archived somewhere and reupload them for you.

post #25 of 28

Thanks a lot. This would be very useful.

 

Kind regards,

 

JMF

post #26 of 28

I went back to my K-1000 tonight, and tried to have a look again. My issue looks like a bad contact somewhere... but where.

 

When I had no sound, I checked the continuity from the jack to the PCB cable solder. They appear to be OK. But no sound.

 

Had a look to the PCB and all seemed OK. Tried to check those so tiny wires from the metal posts to the driver: no obvious issue. But no sound.

 

Then I slightly unscrewed the screw near the coil, and sound came again, and back when slightly moving the cable. At the moment, it is working.

 

So it doesn't look like an issue related to the cable up to the PCB. I have hope that it is not the tiny wired to the driver. Is there something under the PCB ?

 

Any ideas / advices would be welcomed !

 

Kind regards,

 

JMF

post #27 of 28

After further analysis, I may have found the issue. It sems to be a cold solder point between the PCB and the small pin to the tiny wires to the driver (left one in above picture). I first tried to resolder the different pins, and then the solder went AWAY  from the pin.

 

I dismounted the PCB, cleaned everything, reinstalled the PCB, cleanly resoldered everything. Seems to work up to now... Let's see.

 

I may have taken the opportunity to recable the K-1000, but I was not so comfortable to modify this so fragile device and preferred to limit the surgery to the max...

 

Kind regards,

 

JMF

post #28 of 28
Nice, hope it continues to work for you.
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