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Show us your vintage headphones! - Page 65

post #961 of 1344
I want an ECR as well and not the overpriced one in ebay. I had an ECR400 while ago for cheaps but without the its proprietary energizer it was useless for me, back in for one again.

Haven't heard a unipolar ask vid how long I've been trying to track one....too long. German sellers either won't ship out of European Union/Germany or DHL ship to Australia costing more than $85.
post #962 of 1344
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post

I want an ECR as well and not the overpriced one in ebay. I had an ECR400 while ago for cheaps but without the its proprietary energizer it was useless for me, back in for one again.

Haven't heard a unipolar ask vid how long I've been trying to track one....too long. German sellers either won't ship out of European Union/Germany or DHL ship to Australia costing more than $85.

Nah, it's more like $60... but I get your point.

 

You could get it sent for a lot less as a 'small package' ($25), but it only includes insurance up to $50

OR you could ask it to be sent as an 'International Letter' which only costs $10... and I think that also has insurance up to $50. 

post #963 of 1344
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREQ View Post
 

Nah, it's more like $60... but I get your point.

 

You could get it sent for a lot less as a 'small package' ($25), but it only includes insurance up to $50

OR you could ask it to be sent as an 'International Letter' which only costs $10... and I think that also has insurance up to $50. 

When I'm buying non-cheap electronics I never opt for the cheapest shipping option, that is just plain retarded as I will end up with a door stopper, like it has happened in the past before. Out of the 6 sellers I enquired on (4 of those auctions didn't even let me bid on them due to non German address), only 1 German lad was willing to ship to me, $85 was what I got, via DHL with tracking. 

post #964 of 1344

Not sure why you'd end up with a door-stopper.

I've shipped things before as 'Large International Letters' - which for some reason can be big boxes up to 90cm (H+L+B) - so as long as the box and packaging is above decent, you shouldn't get any problems. (unless they destroy it and you're stuck without decent insurance).

I think most Germans aren't aware of the variety of options available.

 

At the post office, they don't discriminate - they abuse all packages equally.

post #965 of 1344

The unipolar can sound good with mods but they still have their issues and are best bought cheap.

post #966 of 1344
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by takato14 View Post
 

And what do you think is better, good fellow? The R10 is widely believed to be the king... and based on the other vintage TOTL Sony I've heard I'm certainly not going to doubt it without hearing it first.

Very true. 

Depends on which perspective you're coming from, closer to reference sound or coloured as schit. I've heard the Uncle Wilson's R10's not sure if bass light or bass heavy at Jaben's after a nice suggestion from our very own etherlite, believe me since I'm a "get as close as neutral type of person", I'd gladly pick an HD800 off an ample rig than the R10's, given that it uses the same biocellulose drivers as my old CD3k, the drivers don't last long, the only thing ever praised about the R10 is the engineering history behind it and it's looks. Sort of the same with the CD1/3k's both of which I've owned as well.

 

This thread is a disgrace without any mention of the vintage electrostat's made by Sony, Stax, (the old Koss ESP6/7/9/10 are no good, except the 950). Get an SR-3/5 which will sound better than a large 95% of vintage headphones made at the same time or released later on, heck for $200 with an adaptor running off a good integrated amp, it sounds better than a large amount of crap on the market today.

 

Ask vid how well his modded Unipolar electrets sound compared to some of the newer stuff his tried.

 

And who said the R10 is widely believe to be the king? That crown goes to the original Omega and the Orpheus.

 

All subjective of course before people start throwing angry sticks and stones at my direction.

The Orpheus is actually (objectively) worse than the 009, it's just more euphonic/fun to listen to. As for the SR-Ω... Well can't give any argument because so few people own it that no reviews exist; I'm extremely impressed (and jealous :D) that you've gotten to hear one.

 

But you should realize what you're saying here; Stax is a boutique brand and their products not only go for a LOT more than most of what ends up on the 'bay but they also require special amplification equipment to even be used. Couple that with electostats being an acquired taste that some people just plain won't like and any objective definition for the "best" vintage headphone is complete and total unobtainium.

 

And I'm sorry, but calling this thread a "disgrace" for not having rare, expensive, specialized equipment that few people bought back then is both extremely rude and kind of unreasonble. 

post #967 of 1344
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalbee View Post
 

No no no, don't tighten that! It won't go much tighter, it'll most likely just approach a breaking point where you'll crack it.

That part is just a guide. What determines the tension on the headband is the elastics, which unsurprisingly after many years has become loose.

That guide clamps on to the wire hoops, so you can slide it down toward the cups to where the band fits & lock it down. That will keep the headband from moving past that point. The head band will no longer float, but if it is adjusted for you it should feel OK. 

 

Cheers,

kev

post #968 of 1344

I'm really enjoying this thread thanks for all the info, now I'm getting addicted to the idea of purchasing old HP's

 

I am wondering if purchasing a nearly new Sennheiser 414 for <$150 is worth it.

 

Also is The Radio Shack Realistic (Tandy) LV/1 worth $50, Made by Koss for Tandy, (the equivalent of the HV/1A) for a nearly new version or should I wait for eternity for the HV/1A to reappear here or the Bay?

post #969 of 1344
Quote:
Originally Posted by RUMAY408 View Post
 

I'm really enjoying this thread thanks for all the info, now I'm getting addicted to the idea of purchasing old HP's

 

I am wondering if purchasing a nearly new Sennheiser 414 for <$150 is worth it.

 

Also is The Radio Shack Realistic (Tandy) LV/1 worth $50, Made by Koss for Tandy, (the equivalent of the HV/1A) for a nearly new version or should I wait for eternity for the HV/1A to reappear here or the Bay?

They are one in the same. Just differently colored.

 

.. Er, actually, the LV/1 is equivalent to the HV/1, not the HV/1A. The HV/1 was black, the HV/1A was dark brown, not sure what the differences are other than that. Either way, the LV/1 will sound identical to the HV/1, with maybe slightly worse build quality.

post #970 of 1344
Quote:
Originally Posted by takato14 View Post
 

They are one in the same. Just differently colored.

 

.. Er, actually, the LV/1 is equivalent to the HV/1, not the HV/1A. The HV/1 was black, the HV/1A was dark brown, not sure what the differences are other than that. Either way, the LV/1 will sound identical to the HV/1, with maybe slightly worse build quality.

So much for waiting on one, one just went up on eBay.  The Tandy version scares me, the guy has two, one $45 cracked but "sounds fine,"  $50 for the near mint version.  My Dad owned the HV/1A and it was my first taste of what a real headphone can sound like, so I would like to find a closer to the real thing version.

post #971 of 1344
Quote:
Originally Posted by RUMAY408 View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by takato14 View Post
 

They are one in the same. Just differently colored.

 

.. Er, actually, the LV/1 is equivalent to the HV/1, not the HV/1A. The HV/1 was black, the HV/1A was dark brown, not sure what the differences are other than that. Either way, the LV/1 will sound identical to the HV/1, with maybe slightly worse build quality.

So much for waiting on one, one just went up on eBay.  The Tandy version scares me, the guy has two, one $45 cracked but "sounds fine,"  $50 for the near mint version.  My Dad owned the HV/1A and it was my first taste of what a real headphone can sound like, so I would like to find a closer to the real thing version.

Let me know how it is, been considering trying one but prices can go crazy. 

post #972 of 1344
Quote:
Originally Posted by RUMAY408 View Post
 

I am wondering if purchasing a nearly new Sennheiser 414 for <$150 is worth it.

Totally NOT worth it for that money. That is priced for a collector.

 

The only HD414 two HD414 versions that sounded OK to me was the "HD414 25th Anniversary Edition" and "HD414 SL" which has a fuller bass response.

The worst sounding ones are the originals. Collectors headphones really. Nothing more.

 

You can get something special for that money.

 

ACTUALLY, there is a Fostex T10 on ebay for a while now for less than that, but it's not in perfect condition. Someone put T20 stickers on it.

Not only is it ridiculously rare, but it's extremely fun and easy to mod, AND works quite well as a portable headphone. It would be an awesome entry into planar magnetic headphones too. 

post #973 of 1344
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREQ View Post
 

Totally NOT worth it for that money. That is priced for a collector.

 

The only HD414 two HD414 versions that sounded OK to me was the "HD414 25th Anniversary Edition" and "HD414 SL" which has a fuller bass response.

The worst sounding ones are the originals. Collectors headphones really. Nothing more.

 

You can get something special for that money.

 

ACTUALLY, there is a Fostex T10 on ebay for a while now for less than that, but it's not in perfect condition. Someone put T20 stickers on it.

Not only is it ridiculously rare, but it's extremely fun and easy to mod, AND works quite well as a portable headphone. It would be an awesome entry into planar magnetic headphones too. 

Great info. the feedback is much appreciated.  I'm not buying anything until I hear back from this thread.

post #974 of 1344

Took your advice GREQ and bought that T10, I may need help with the mods, any advice on that?

post #975 of 1344

Nice  work.  Keep it stock for a while until you decide you want to change it up.  Get used to it then you'll more readily notice any changes you do. Stock is pretty darned good on those.


Edited by nick n - 10/30/13 at 7:12pm
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