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Audio Grade Fuses - Page 4

post #46 of 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wheels4me View Post
It is inside. From my memory: remove the nine (I believe) screws on the bottom, the four on the back. Be careful when you take them out, as the eight along the sides of the bottom, the one near the front but in the middle, and the four on the back are all slightly different screws, so keep them separated properly such that you can put them back where they belong. Also, of course make sure that you use a philips screwdriver head that fits very well with no slippage, such that the tiny screwheads do not get messed up! Slide the top/front forward about two inches, no further is necessary AND remember that the front panel's switches are attached, and the fuse is right there at the back on the side. Replace, and put the proper screws where they belong.
Thanks a lot.

anyway, can you tell what size is it use? I plan to order it.
post #47 of 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG POPPA View Post
And what will help save your gear in a lightning storm besides that million dollar power conditioning and protection you have connected to your gear? A dumb fuse.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WittyzTH View Post
Thanks a lot.

anyway, can you tell what size is it use? I plan to order it.
5 x 20 mm, 2A slow-blow
post #48 of 234
Very brave using slow-blow!
post #49 of 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by REVPOWER View Post
Fuse direction matters. The difference is usually discernable without trying to listen too hard.

When inserted the wrong way, the sound will usually be a bit flatter and softer. Imaging not as good. It can still sound OK, just not "right".

On fuses with directional arrows - you should still experiment. Unless you are a circuit designer or tech, you may not know the true direction of flow in the circuit. Some boards have been known to be marked incorrectly.

In testing marked fuses here, it's been determined that the fuse manufacturers are marking them correctly for directionality.


I DID LOL



Thread suffers from a lack of the king of these sort of tweaks.
post #50 of 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by SleepyOne View Post
Very brave using slow-blow!
Not at all; all of the fuses in my equipment (both full-up stereo and head-fi system, except my WA6) ARE slow-blow including the DAC in question. Slow-blow is also all that IsoClean makes. I also contacted Jack at Woo re my WA6 and he confirmed that a slow-blow is fine. The slow-blows are not THAT slow, as I understand it, anyhow... they will protect from dangerously high current.
post #51 of 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by REVPOWER View Post
Fuse direction matters. The difference is usually discernable without trying to listen too hard.

When inserted the wrong way, the sound will usually be a bit flatter and softer. Imaging not as good. It can still sound OK, just not "right".

On fuses with directional arrows - you should still experiment. Unless you are a circuit designer or tech, you may not know the true direction of flow in the circuit. Some boards have been known to be marked incorrectly.

In testing marked fuses here, it's been determined that the fuse manufacturers are marking them correctly for directionality.
Method to check correct installation directionality without being a Tech: Unplug AC cord, remove fuse. Using any cheap multi-tester set to resistance in ohms, connect one lead to to one of the two non-ground blades inside the IEC connector on your component that your AC cord's female connector plugs into. using the other lead, touch one of the sides of the fuse holder. Keep trying the combos, four in all (two IEC non-ground blades, two fuse holder sides) until resistance is zero; Three combos will show high resistance; one will show no resistance. The one with virtually no resistance is, of course, the side of the fuse holder into which the current flows from the IEC. That is the side of the holder that one will place the starting part of the IsoClean arrow or the HiFiTuning diode symbol (direction-wise, looks like an arrow anyway) such that the current flows in the same direction as the arrow. I cannot speak with certainty about the Furutech (writing from left to right, current from left to right?)

The above test can also be done with a continuity test on better multi-testers, my cheapo does not have one, but the resistance test is equal to it. Continuity simply means no resistance. The high resistance of the three high-resistance combos is because there is all that circuitry of the component beyond the other side of the fuse holder! The no-resistance side is simply directly connected to one side of the inlet IEC connector.

If you don't have a multitester, I advise getting one from say, Radio Shack, for almost nothing. A serviceable one costs less than a fuse! They are handy things to have anyhow!

Hope this helps.
post #52 of 234
Thanks for the inform! I probably change the two 2A fuse in my amp first then the DAC (still trying to find correct size allen key to open it up..). Shall see which fuse I can actually find in UK (furutech or isoclean).
post #53 of 234
Thread Starter 
OK, I added another fine sounding piece of equipment to my rig. A Synergistic Research QLS 9 quantum line strip. Real familiar with the Tesla Receptacle. So I thought I kinda had a clue what I was in for? Got some sound stage and some nice detail coming out of the piece that it matched my gear well. After several hours listening, noticed something was missing? It was the bass. Just thought that this piece was a little too nuetral for what I was used too. Thought I had to go get some really syrupy tubes to compinsate? Then I was thinking try swapping the fuses to see if there would be any change? Had the Furutech in. Put in the Hi-Fi Tuning in and the bass and sound I was looking for maically reappeared. With out the SR strip would be listening to the Furutech right now. Just want to give a head-up on how changing one peice of equipment can change the sound of you rig dramatically and how it will effect the synergy. Just stuff to keep in mind.
post #54 of 234
Changed out all Hi-Fi's in my headphone rig for Furutech fuses. I've burned in for approx. one week. Result: Not night and day like when replacing stock fuses with the Hi-Fi's but I am hearing some nice clarity and sparkle in the highs which is an improvement. Cymbals sizzle a bit more. Some extension in the width of SQ and a bit closer to the music. Honestly, I'd say if you have Hi-fi's or Furutechs you'd be happy.
post #55 of 234
Thread Starter 
The Rhodium takes a little more time to break in. The Furutech are very smooth compared to the other fuses. The sizzle should tone down in a bit. After putting a SR QLS9 in the system had to learn the fuses again.
post #56 of 234
Dan Millheim - plese do keep us posted how things progress in a week or two, many thanks!
post #57 of 234
IsoClean in my Woo WA6: very nice improvement in refinement. HiFiTuning (only brand that makes 0.5A in LARGE size) in my CIAudio power supply for the iTransport: another nice improvement. Changing the 2A in the Cullen-modded DLIII DAC to a IsoClean: not so much. I was surprised as it made the output too bright. In this DAC, it already has a ceramic fuse and perhaps was optimized as such. I tried reversing the fuse orientation for kicks, but to no sonic improvement. As such, I went back to the stock ceramic and the total sound is great; this is the configuration I demoed at CanJam with some nice compliments from others.

But what is true beyond any doubt is that the fuse is important to sound, much more than I expected. So, I also did a round of fuse replacement in my full-speaker stereo. I upgraded the fuses to IsoCleans in my modded Shanling CD (I use its digital out though) and got better high-frequency refinement. Changing the 10A in my Von Schweikert small sub added resolution to the bass; much tighter and more powerful. Good so far. Then I changed the fuses to IsoCleans in the modded Shanling tube monoblocks and a drastic change happened; The soundstage became a bit smaller, but treble very refined and more musical. I was left with wanting something in-between. I also noticed that despite the amps having stickers near the IEC saying to use 2A fuses, the fuses I removed were 3As. This may have been part of the mods by PartsConnexion 6 years ago??? It makes me wonder what changing to a 3A IsoClean might do; perhaps the lower rating of the 2As is limiting flow and 3As might reopen the sound a tad?? Anybody tried different ratings for short periods? The amps were very affected by fuse choice.

So, then I changed the fuse in my other Cullen DLIII, the one I use with the speaker rig and got the same extra-bright sound I heard with the headphone rig. I'm wondering if a Furutech might be a better match for this component.

Anyway CLEARLY these little devils make considerable changes that ARE on level with the already surprising changes from other power entities, most noticeably cords.

I will try a couple of 2A Furus for the DACs and 3A IsoCleans for the Shanling amps. I will also try the Furus in the amps. The headphone rig is very good as is, but I am open to the DAC being retrofitted if the Furu works there.

Has anyone tried the Critical Link fuses from PSAudio? Big Poppa? That might be another good ceramic match for the DACs...
post #58 of 234
Thread Starter 
Yeah the PS audio fuses are on my list. Added a new piece to the rig so in the middle of learning the fuses again. Have not got back to the IsoClean yet.
post #59 of 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG POPPA View Post
And what will help save your gear in a lightning storm besides that million dollar power conditioning and protection you have connected to your gear? A dumb fuse.
You might also want to consider adding a grounding rod to your home's electrical system. They're invaluable if you regularly have electrical storms.

I have not been able to locate audiophile-grade grounding rods, but I am sure you could have one cryogenically treated or plated with silver.

Though I'd think that regular copper ones would work just fine.
post #60 of 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by iriverdude View Post
You thought I was being serious?
watch out, it seems like people here already figured out the way to make you stop talking: just treat all your smart comments as serious statements, pretty soon you will be so bored you won't post any more
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