Audio Grade Fuses - Page 4

Thanks a lot.

anyway, can you tell what size is it use? I plan to order it.

5 x 20 mm, 2A slow-blow

Very brave using slow-blow!

I DID LOL



Thread suffers from a lack of the king of these sort of tweaks.

Not at all; all of the fuses in my equipment (both full-up stereo and head-fi system, except my WA6) ARE slow-blow including the DAC in question. Slow-blow is also all that IsoClean makes. I also contacted Jack at Woo re my WA6 and he confirmed that a slow-blow is fine. The slow-blows are not THAT slow, as I understand it, anyhow... they will protect from dangerously high current.

Method to check correct installation directionality without being a Tech: Unplug AC cord, remove fuse. Using any cheap multi-tester set to resistance in ohms, connect one lead to to one of the two non-ground blades inside the IEC connector on your component that your AC cord's female connector plugs into. using the other lead, touch one of the sides of the fuse holder. Keep trying the combos, four in all (two IEC non-ground blades, two fuse holder sides) until resistance is zero; Three combos will show high resistance; one will show no resistance. The one with virtually no resistance is, of course, the side of the fuse holder into which the current flows from the IEC. That is the side of the holder that one will place the starting part of the IsoClean arrow or the HiFiTuning diode symbol (direction-wise, looks like an arrow anyway) such that the current flows in the same direction as the arrow. I cannot speak with certainty about the Furutech (writing from left to right, current from left to right?)

The above test can also be done with a continuity test on better multi-testers, my cheapo does not have one, but the resistance test is equal to it. Continuity simply means no resistance. The high resistance of the three high-resistance combos is because there is all that circuitry of the component beyond the other side of the fuse holder! The no-resistance side is simply directly connected to one side of the inlet IEC connector.

If you don't have a multitester, I advise getting one from say, Radio Shack, for almost nothing. A serviceable one costs less than a fuse! They are handy things to have anyhow!

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the inform! I probably change the two 2A fuse in my amp first then the DAC (still trying to find correct size allen key to open it up..). Shall see which fuse I can actually find in UK (furutech or isoclean).

Changed out all Hi-Fi's in my headphone rig for Furutech fuses. I've burned in for approx. one week. Result: Not night and day like when replacing stock fuses with the Hi-Fi's but I am hearing some nice clarity and sparkle in the highs which is an improvement. Cymbals sizzle a bit more. Some extension in the width of SQ and a bit closer to the music. Honestly, I'd say if you have Hi-fi's or Furutechs you'd be happy.

Dan Millheim - plese do keep us posted how things progress in a week or two, many thanks!

IsoClean in my Woo WA6: very nice improvement in refinement. HiFiTuning (only brand that makes 0.5A in LARGE size) in my CIAudio power supply for the iTransport: another nice improvement. Changing the 2A in the Cullen-modded DLIII DAC to a IsoClean: not so much. I was surprised as it made the output too bright. In this DAC, it already has a ceramic fuse and perhaps was optimized as such. I tried reversing the fuse orientation for kicks, but to no sonic improvement. As such, I went back to the stock ceramic and the total sound is great; this is the configuration I demoed at CanJam with some nice compliments from others.

But what is true beyond any doubt is that the fuse is important to sound, much more than I expected. So, I also did a round of fuse replacement in my full-speaker stereo. I upgraded the fuses to IsoCleans in my modded Shanling CD (I use its digital out though) and got better high-frequency refinement. Changing the 10A in my Von Schweikert small sub added resolution to the bass; much tighter and more powerful. Good so far. Then I changed the fuses to IsoCleans in the modded Shanling tube monoblocks and a drastic change happened; The soundstage became a bit smaller, but treble very refined and more musical. I was left with wanting something in-between. I also noticed that despite the amps having stickers near the IEC saying to use 2A fuses, the fuses I removed were 3As. This may have been part of the mods by PartsConnexion 6 years ago??? It makes me wonder what changing to a 3A IsoClean might do; perhaps the lower rating of the 2As is limiting flow and 3As might reopen the sound a tad?? Anybody tried different ratings for short periods? The amps were very affected by fuse choice.

So, then I changed the fuse in my other Cullen DLIII, the one I use with the speaker rig and got the same extra-bright sound I heard with the headphone rig. I'm wondering if a Furutech might be a better match for this component.

Anyway CLEARLY these little devils make considerable changes that ARE on level with the already surprising changes from other power entities, most noticeably cords.

I will try a couple of 2A Furus for the DACs and 3A IsoCleans for the Shanling amps. I will also try the Furus in the amps. The headphone rig is very good as is, but I am open to the DAC being retrofitted if the Furu works there.

Has anyone tried the Critical Link fuses from PSAudio? Big Poppa? That might be another good ceramic match for the DACs...

You might also want to consider adding a grounding rod to your home's electrical system. They're invaluable if you regularly have electrical storms.

I have not been able to locate audiophile-grade grounding rods, but I am sure you could have one cryogenically treated or plated with silver.

Though I'd think that regular copper ones would work just fine.

watch out, it seems like people here already figured out the way to make you stop talking: just treat all your smart comments as serious statements, pretty soon you will be so bored you won't post any more