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The Beyerdynamic DT48 Arrives... - Page 243

post #3631 of 3771

What is the sound difference between later versions? Do you think the price was so expensive due to outside influences hyping then up?
 

post #3632 of 3771
Quote:
Originally Posted by judy1992 View Post

What is the sound difference between later versions? Do you think the price was so expensive due to outside influences hyping then up?
 

Lol look at Beyer's website, they even have a quote from a head-fi review on their site: http://europe.beyerdynamic.com/shop/hah/headphones-and-headsets/studio-and-stage/studio-headphones/dt-48-e.html

post #3633 of 3771
Quote:
Originally Posted by judy1992 View Post

What is the sound difference between later versions? Do you think the price was so expensive due to outside influences hyping then up?
 

It was a KUDELSKI, not just a normal pair of DT48E, btw I have the Silver Kudelski and the clarity is astonishing, the best part is there is sub bass.

post #3634 of 3771
Quote:
Originally Posted by maniacal71 View Post

It was a KUDELSKI, not just a normal pair of DT48E, btw I have the Silver Kudelski and the clarity is astonishing, the best part is there is sub bass.


More Clarity then your Nagra's?

post #3635 of 3771
Quote:
Originally Posted by judy1992 View Post


More Clarity then your Nagra's?

 

Maybe he meant to the 48S...BTW, can some KUDELSKI owner open his driver cup and take some photos, I'm curious to see if the driver inside the KUDELSKI version looks the same as the DT-48E from the 60s.

 

1000

post #3636 of 3771
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acix View Post

 

Maybe he meant to the 48S...BTW, can some KUDELSKI owner open his driver cup and take some photos, I'm curious to see if the driver inside the KUDELSKI version looks the same as the DT-48E from the 60s.

 

1000

Here it is

 

 

1000

 

April 1962

post #3637 of 3771

Havoc thanks for the photo, they looks the same to me, I wonder if there is any differences?


Edited by Acix - 12/16/12 at 12:37pm
post #3638 of 3771

post #3639 of 3771

Crazy, looks like everything inside is alloy, and where this part in photo number 2 come from, it was under the part in photo 3?

post #3640 of 3771

yep, my Kudelski looks the same(still haven't fixed cable issue however with mine, if it IS the cable). Thanks for the photos maniacal71. I didn't dare open mine up all the way to look at the driver diaphram....aluminum, right? I have the same question Acix posted above about that part in second photo from top. The 'E' I own from the '80's is still my favorite phone for vocals, especially jazz...even though I like some of my other phones a lot too. 


Edited by lejaz - 12/20/12 at 7:36am
post #3641 of 3771
Quote:
Originally Posted by c12mech View Post

I swapped the the leads in the Y connector and the problem stayed on the right side.  So I took the cover off the driver.  I took the screws out of the driver connectors and both kind of popped out.  Then I noticed this.

P1100463.JPG

 

It did not seem strange at first because I thought that the blade with the screw hole was a terminal for the connector.  I put it back together and nothing.  Started measuring and had continuity from the plug to each lead but not across the two.  Took it apart again and saw this:

P1100464.JPG

 

It's not real clear but you can see a piece of fine copper wire coming out of there.  It seems that the actual leads are those two hair-like wires and the screws just hold the terminal in place.  I'm pretty frustrated right now with this.  Can it be fixed?  I don't see any way to get the driver out of the cup at all.  Is there even a remote chance of it working again?  What are the chances of getting another driver from Beyer? 

 

Today was going great until this.

 

I recable my both DT's today with the original Beyer cable, but no sound... I had the same thought as you had, that the blade with the screw hole was a terminal for the connector. I saw post # 2123, but how you open up this alloy holes, and how you've managed to handle hair-like wires...I mean you pushed the blade down a bit, or just solder the hair-like wires? I'll try tomorrow to open up the alloy holes and see where is the hair-like wires are connected. Any advice would be appreciated.


Edited by Acix - 12/22/12 at 3:33pm
post #3642 of 3771

What you call the "blade" should never be removed - it's connected to the voice coil with the hair thin wire, if it's broke there's nothing to do. If you want to recable, you should only desolder the cable on the "blade" and solder the new cable.

 

Pic No 2 is the magnet and pole pieces, which are screwed into the house. (The felt is damping the membrane.) To open it, take a pair of pliers (careful!) and put them into two holes, then rotate anti clockwise. Remember though, that opening the driver like this might affect the placement of the voice coil in the magnet gap, so do it with great care.

 

My advice is to only recable if the cable is broke.

post #3643 of 3771
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDR30 View Post

What you call the "blade" should never be removed - it's connected to the voice coil with the hair thin wire, if it's broke there's nothing to do. If you want to recable, you should only desolder the cable on the "blade" and solder the new cable.

 

Pic No 2 is the magnet and pole pieces, which are screwed into the house. (The felt is damping the membrane.) To open it, take a pair of pliers (careful!) and put them into two holes, then rotate anti clockwise. Remember though, that opening the driver like this might affect the placement of the voice coil in the magnet gap, so do it with great care.

 

My advice is to only recable if the cable is broke.

 

 

Thanks, I've already removed the "blades" and solder the new cable... looks logical to me that this is the simple way to recable the DTs. As I said, I thought screw hole was a terminal for the connector, and not a hidden tiny wire. I'll try to open and see what I can do about.


Edited by Acix - 12/23/12 at 4:49am
post #3644 of 3771

Hope you did manage to connect the voice coil back, in all headphones, extra caution should be taken for that fine wire, in the case of the DT48, they were designed for ease of re-cabling just by removing those screwed down plates, solder the new cables and secure back them plates. Removing the magnet will not affect the centering of the voice coil as they are glued down to the to the stiff metal surrounds.


Edited by maniacal71 - 12/23/12 at 5:27am
post #3645 of 3771

This is a crazy patent from Beyer! I need to bring a jewelry lamp with magnifier, I even cant see the tinny wire. 

 

 

I'm thinking of soldering some extension to this wire, but I'm a bit afraid to burn up the wire.

 

1000

 

 

The 48S driver still have same wire to deal with...

 

1000

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