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The Beyerdynamic DT48 Arrives... - Page 235

post #3511 of 3815
Quote:
Originally Posted by EYEdROP View Post

Man the 120 ohm adaptor really made a difference with the DT48S model. I have a 1/4" Sennheiser cable > 1/8" Radioshack adaptor > 1/4" Apuresound 120 OHm adaptor. Kind of ridiculous but I love what Im hearing right now. 

 

I think either my cable needs replaced or the R channel driver is going out because the left is just a little louder than the right. Even with this issue I think these are a bit better than the modern DT48E. I use the balance control to even out the volume, but there is a definite slight difference in tonality between the two drivers. The L channel has more warmth. I have no idea how to use a solder. KBI said APS cable repaired his broken driver, but Im not looking for a $150 snake oil cable. Whats the cheapest way to get them repaired?

 

Next thing is to try a little Parametric EQ.... 



In what way did the adapter improve the sound....better lows, highs... what improved? 

Also wondering what amp you're using with them. Too bad they don't sell an adapter 1/4" to 1/4". 

post #3512 of 3815
Quote:
Originally Posted by lejaz View Post



In what way did the adapter improve the sound....better lows, highs... what improved? 

Also wondering what amp you're using with them. Too bad they don't sell an adapter 1/4" to 1/4". 



It opens up the sound, not so closed in, more transparency (feel the quickness of the drivers, somehow like electrostatics, even at very low volume, you can feel the precision in the output). The 120Ω adapter works best with 25Ω cans, with the 5 ohms not much difference, only range widens.

 

@Eyedrop, you should back read a bit, lol. Enjoy, you can use normal 2 core speaker wires, that means 4 cores in total and the common ground joined at the 1/4" plug, just a little solder needed for the 3 wires, then attach the ends to the drivers, Also you should try them with a Meier amp.


Edited by maniacal71 - 3/1/12 at 10:30am
post #3513 of 3815

 

What's this like compared to T5P?

post #3514 of 3815
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiteki View Post

 

What's this like compared to T5P?



I don't think you will like it, you sold you ER4S away. Similar signature but quick decay.

post #3515 of 3815

 

The ER-4 was kinda flat, doesn't this one have magic mids?

post #3516 of 3815
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiteki View Post

 

The ER-4 was kinda flat, doesn't this one have magic mids?



It does, the best mids are on the DT48E Vintage, the rest have a more balanced sound, although you could say that the mids are magical still.

post #3517 of 3815
Quote:
Originally Posted by maniacal71 View Post



It opens up the sound, not so closed in, more transparency (feel the quickness of the drivers, somehow like electrostatics, even at very low volume, you can feel the precision in the output). The 120Ω adapter works best with 25Ω cans, with the 5 ohms not much difference, only range widens.

 

@Eyedrop, you should back read a bit, lol. Enjoy, you can use normal 2 core speaker wires, that means 4 cores in total and the common ground joined at the 1/4" plug, just a little solder needed for the 3 wires, then attach the ends to the drivers, Also you should try them with a Meier amp.


For me, the adaptor seemed to smooth out any peaks in the response. It made it less shout-ey, more liquid and smooth. Im using a cheap Behringer FCA202 Firewire DAC/ADC with the built in headphone amp. I had a separate amp called the SM Pro QAMP that sounded a lot better, but it got stolen. Im saving up for an amp right now.  

 

Thank you maniacal71, I had no idea that its that easy lol. How do I safely open up the cups and reinstall them? I heard a perfect seal on those covers is critical.  

 

Is trying them with a speaker amp a good idea? 

 

post #3518 of 3815
Quote:
Originally Posted by EYEdROP View Post


For me, the adaptor seemed to smooth out any peaks in the response. It made it less shout-ey, more liquid and smooth. Im using a cheap Behringer FCA202 Firewire DAC/ADC with the built in headphone amp. I had a separate amp called the SM Pro QAMP that sounded a lot better, but it got stolen. Im saving up for an amp right now.  

 

Thank you maniacal71, I had no idea that its that easy lol. How do I safely open up the cups and reinstall them? I heard a perfect seal on those covers is critical.  

 

Is trying them with a speaker amp a good idea? 

 


Haven't tried them on the speaker posts, but would strongly advise against that, the cups can be opened with a 2 prong screwdriver attachment, which is available on multi piece screwdriver sets meant for electronics/electrical, normally comes with 31 in 1 pieces. I have tried them with the covers open too, slightly airier thats all. the cable connects are screwed in so do that after you solder the plug on. Yes less shouty, you could say that. i found that it plays better on the Meier than a BCL even. I use the 120Ω adapter even for my IEMs coming out from the amp for better scalable range. On the iPod or Mac, the bass seems fuller and humped up, strange indeed.

 

post #3519 of 3815

Do you think my channel balance issue stems from the cable or the driver? The cable on these have already been replaced before and looks fairly newer, and its thick. That is why I have doubts about the cable and suspect the 30+ year old drivers might be the issue. I guess it will be worth a shot to recable them regardless...

post #3520 of 3815
Quote:
Originally Posted by EYEdROP View Post

Do you think my channel balance issue stems from the cable or the driver? The cable on these have already been replaced before and looks fairly newer, and its thick. That is why I have doubts about the cable and suspect the 30+ year old drivers might be the issue. I guess it will be worth a shot to recable them regardless...



Try them from a number of sources, skip the amp and just direct, any difference? try switching cups left to right, does it stay with the same driver? use them with an adapter and without. I think we can deduce the problem, from this few steps.

post #3521 of 3815

I have already tried all that stuff. 3 different mp3 players, 2 computers, 6 different headphones, 2 different adapters, Radioshack dB meter with pink noise, multiple opinions, wearing them backwards, etc.. Ive tried it all. Im sure its the headphones unfortunately.

post #3522 of 3815
Quote:
Originally Posted by EYEdROP View Post

I have already tried all that stuff. 3 different mp3 players, 2 computers, 6 different headphones, 2 different adapters, Radioshack dB meter with pink noise, multiple opinions, wearing them backwards, etc.. Ive tried it all. Im sure its the headphones unfortunately.



Check resistance value on each driver, you will need to de-solder the ground at the jack. Right and ground again left and ground, so splitting the ground is a must to get proper readings. then proceed to check the resistance inside the cups, you don't need to remove the cables but advisable to incase there is a short along the cable.

post #3523 of 3815

I have a friend with a digital multi tester that I will borrow soon. Ill ask if he can help and Ill report my findings.

post #3524 of 3815

Quote:

Originally Posted by EYEdROP View Post

For me, the adaptor seemed to smooth out any peaks in the response. It made it less shout-ey, more liquid and smooth. Im using a cheap Behringer FCA202 Firewire DAC/ADC with the built in headphone amp. I had a separate amp called the SM Pro QAMP that sounded a lot better, but it got stolen. Im saving up for an amp right now.  

 

Thank you maniacal71, I had no idea that its that easy lol. How do I safely open up the cups and reinstall them? I heard a perfect seal on those covers is critical.  

 

Is trying them with a speaker amp a good idea? 

Give the Behringer SRC2496 a shot. With its variable gain and volume settings for the headphone out and 16/44.1 to 24/96 capabilities it is one of the best audio bargains you can find...
 

 

post #3525 of 3815

233

 

Will take other shots tomorrow.

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