Originally Posted by mirohh
I have the same problem with my Harman Kardon 260, -no selective mute.
I got a simple cheap speaker switch.
Now I can manually switch the stereo speakers off when I listen to the realiser (analog connected).
Excellent idea. I've taken your suggestion and ordered a similar speaker switch:
I only have 1 pair of speakers, but this inexpensive switch which can support 2 pairs should work fine for my needs. It provides a load to the amp even when the speakers are OFF on the switch, which is good since I will have the volume on the AVR up higher when wanting to use the Altec-Lansing speakers out of the Realiser (in analog bypass mode).
It's small (7" wide by 4" deep, and 2" tall at the back sloped downward toward the front). Should fit fine on one side of the top of one of my components.
I'll just need to prepare two sets of speaker wires to connect the pair of speakers from AVR to the switch, and then from switch to the speakers. No support for banana plugs at the switch, but I can live with push-in open wire connections here.
PERFECT! One more gizmo to solve a particular need, but it seems like the perfect workaround for the problem. "There's a right tool for everything."
Note that I had some "false-hope" when I thought I might be able to use Zone2 (extra pair of L/R speaker outputs) from the Yamaha AVR, instead of the primary main zone L/R outputs as I currently have it connected. Zone2 can be managed separately from the AVR and can be activated or deactivated, as I really want to do currently with the main zone speakers if I only could (although I'm only using L/R from that main zone).
Unfortunately that idea failed because Zone2 is simply for a second audio-only use, and its available choice of input sources is limited to the audio-only inputs to the AVR. You cannot just duplicate the L/R audio output from the HDMI1-6 inputs, sending that L/R audio from HDMI1-6 over to the Zone2 L/R output... no, that would have been too convenient and perfect an option to think of! So Zone2 is for audio-only, with no "duplicate main zone L/R" option available.
Given all of these other obstacles, it certainly seems more reasonable to have an ON/OFF switch for the always-connected speakers (while still keeping an 8ohm load visible to the AVR's amp) than going around back to pull/insert speaker banana plugs in the AVR's L/R speaker terminals.
Thanks VERY MUCH for this idea.
Also, I've gotten more adept at turning on the four devices (in the HDMI relay chain from DMA2100 through BDP-103 through V867 to XBR960) in proper sequence in order to get video out of the HDTV and audio either (a) from the Realiser when it is powered on, so that the BDP-103 "A/V Split" option activates so that HDMI-1 provides video-only to the V867 and HDMI-2 provides LPCM audio-only to the Realiser, or (b) from either B&W speakers from the V867, or Altec-Lansing speakers through the powered-off Realiser via analog preamp outputs of the V867. The "HDMI delicacy" of this setup is certainly a bit of a nuisance.
So it's not just on/off or push-a-switch easy, but it's not horrible either. I can live with it, given the HDMI complexity of this multi-device relay and the notorious fragility of HDMI handshakes when more than just two devices are involved. And besides, once I get it stable and running fine as long as I don't need to turn off the source device or change sources or change outputs, it will remain stable and running fine.
Mostly this allows me to now use HDMI input to the Realiser (when I do want to listen through headphones) for ALL of my sources, not just BluRay but now also HDTV. This was, after all, the sole reason I invested in the BDP-103. And (so I argued to myself, to convince myself it was worth the money) this has to be "better" than analog input to the Realiser (which of course I know is really virtually identical in sound quality to HDMI input, because of the excellent A-to-D circuitry in the Realiser).
So... it's done.
Note that I don't have your particular problem with my setup, because all audio output from all of my sources is now coming from the BDP-103 via HDMI, since all digital sources now plug into the BDP-103's external HDMI inputs, rather than going to the HDMI inputs of my AVR. So all audio decoding for all sources to LPCM output via HDMI is done by the BDP-103. And the decision of whether to deliver that LPCM audio out over either HDMI-1 or HDMI-2 (but not both) is controlled by the "A/V Split" feature of the BDP-103.
The LPCM audio output from the BDP-103 is delivered ONLY out of just via HDMI-2 (along with no video on HDMI-2) if the Realiser is powered on (because I want to listen through headphones), with NO AUDIO going out over HDMI-1 (which is thus carrying only video in this situation) to the AVR. So when listening through Realiser and headphones there is no speaker problem from the AVR to contend with, because there is no LPCM audio getting to the AVR via HDMI-1 out from the BDP-103. Only video is going out over HDMI-1 to the AVR. This happens automatically, because of the "A/V Split" feature of the BDP-103 and controlled by whether I have the Realiser powered on or not.
So it's only when the Realiser is powered off that my own speaker problem arises. In this case the LCPM audio output from the BDP-103 is delivered along with video out over HDMI-1 to the AVR, where it now can be converted to 2-channel stereo by the AVR and simultaneously (a) sent out over the preamp outputs going to the analog inputs of the Realiser (which is powered off) and on to the Altec-Lansing speakers, as well as (b) sent out to the B&W speakers now connected to L/R out of the AVR but soon to go through this new ON/OFF switch as well.
So in speaker mode, I can suppress the B&W speakers from the new ON/OFF switch if I want to use the Altec-Lansing speakers. And I can suppress the Altec-Lansing speakers by simply powering them off if I want to use the B&W speakers. In both speaker situations (which requires that be Realiser be powered off), I can designate 2-channel stereo on the AVR and use its VOLUME control (although the powered Altec-Lansing speakers also have their own additional volume control if needed, although their standard setting is generally acceptable).
Edited by dsperber - 1/6/13 at 3:37pm