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Long awaited Smyth SVS Realiser NOW AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE - Page 83

post #1231 of 2713
Quote:
Originally Posted by disastermouse View Post

The thing about this is that it's basically the Holy Grail for our niche.....and nobody else cares.  :(

 



I would say it's the holy grail for multi-channel audio but when it comes to stereo I usually bypass it and since most people here listen to 2 channels sources mostly it doesn't get much love.

post #1232 of 2713

Hi, I need some help from you guys.

 

Currently I have only a Oppo blu ray player connected to the Realiser input via the 8 analog inputs. The BR player is doing the audio decoding.

 

The realizer is connected to an old audio video receiver via ext-in inputs.

This receiver does not have HDMI input-output switching; neither lossless decoding capability (Denon 2802).

 

I’d like to include a Directv box as additional input to the Realiser via HDMI input. But need to find a stand-alone decoder for the device or a receiver with lossless decoding and HDMI switching.  

 

As I usually listen to movies via headphones about 90% of the time and the living room is on the small side (18 x 15 feet), I guess don’t need a powerful receiver.

 

Feedback will be most welcome.

 

On another subject, a few day ago, I played some movie concerts, DeJohnette, Metheny, Hancock, Holland’s live in concert and Diana Krall’s live in Paris, both using the 5.0 Sashas profile. Man, I was nicely surprised by the outstanding bass reproduction on both concerts.

Yesterday night I watched Tron: The Legacy 3D blu ray with the 7.1 profile engaged and the 7.1 DTS-HD soundtrack selected. That was  phenomenal! What a powerful, transparent and enveloping 3D sound presentation.  

 

This weekend I intend to configure a 5.1 Sasha speaker profile based on direct bass configuration on the Realiser. Hope to make it right.

 

Regards,

Jose

post #1233 of 2713
Thread Starter 
I had a similar problem when I acquired my Realiser. Previously I was simply running my source A/V boxes through my Zektor 4-in/1-out component video switch for routing purposes. The Zektor box supported component video as well as L/R analog stereo and optical/coax digital audio, and I routed the optical output to my Pioneer Dolby Headphone processor (which was my "virtual surround" solution prior to SVS).

I have no external speakers, so I really didn't need a fancy high-powered receiver for the Realiser. Like you, in theory I only needed minimal decoder capabilities which a standalone decoder (if one existed) would provide. But in fact, I decided that some reasonably capable AVR would provide not only the decoder capability I needed (along with discrete channel analog preamp outputs to feed the Realiser), but I could eliminate my Zektor switch and go with the AVR as a 4-in/1-out HDMI/component switch (which I'd wanted anyway) as well as supporting other audio-only analog sources.

After considering a number of manufacturers and their products, I myself decided to go with a very reasonably priced Yamaha RX-V863 receiver. Actually this only had 3 HDMI inputs, but that was enough for me. Today I'd go for one that had at least 4 HDMI inputs. Anyway, I still do not have any external speakers, and only use it as my decoder/router for feeding HDMI video to my HDTV and 8-channel analog input to the Realiser.

I actually do also have an excellent sounding Altec-Lansing 2.1 powered speaker system (a spare from one of my computers) that I have line-in/out integrated into my Stax SRM-T1S headphone amp cabling (out of the Realiser's L/R analog speaker outputs when the Realiser is powered off, i.e. in "analog bypass mode"), so that I can actually also listen to 2-channel stereo sound for my HDTV through this 2.1 speaker system if I don't want to listen to headphones.

I've worked with a number of Yamaha receivers over the years, and they are very good and reasonably priced.
post #1234 of 2713

What's the B-Stock like?

 

It's the first model right? I will be feeding the A8 with rca's from the Asus HDAV1.3 sound card, decoded LPCM, DTS-MA/TrueHD etc, this lossless pcm will be untouched right?

 

Any noticeable advantages in sound quality using the HDMI?

post #1235 of 2713

Ask Lorr what B stock is. From what I have read the B stock is a non upgradable to HDMI Realiser.

 

If you are using analog RCA cables as input to the Realiser then the Realiser will do a A/D/A conversion.

 

imo yes there is a nice difference when you use the HDMI port of the Realiser, you bypass any A/D/A conversions (the realisers dac). So as long as you have a good external DAC that has a Toslink input and of-course a very good amp, headphones and PRIR, the overall sound-stage and AQ will be better positioned, layered and a better dynamic range along with better clarity.

 

That said, using the RCA (analog) is still very good.

post #1236 of 2713

I'm getting closer to buying a Realiser, but I have not figured out how to hook it up. My DVD player outputs LPCM over HDMI, so that is fine. However, my cable box, Roku, and Apple TV all output Dolby Digital (AC-3) or Dolby Digital Plus over HDMI. I looked for a cheap pre-pro that can take AC-3 on HDMI and output LPCM on HDMI, but could not find one. It seems like they all output the same format as the input when using HDMI. I could output over analog, but that kind of misses that advantage of having a digital input (it would be D > A > D > A). Any suggestions?

 

 

post #1237 of 2713
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

Ask Lorr what B stock is. From what I have read the B stock is a non upgradable to HDMI Realiser.

 

If you are using analog RCA cables as input to the Realiser then the Realiser will do a A/D/A conversion.

 

imo yes there is a nice difference when you use the HDMI port of the Realiser, you bypass any A/D/A conversions (the realisers dac). So as long as you have a good external DAC that has a Toslink input and of-course a very good amp, headphones and PRIR, the overall sound-stage and AQ will be better positioned, layered and a better dynamic range along with better clarity.

 

That said, using the RCA (analog) is still very good.



No B-Stock left anyway, HDMI it is, now just need to save up the $$$. Yeh I will be feeding the A8 Realiser with the Asus HDAV1.3 soundcard, decodes the signal before passing it to A8 (then onto a beefy Headphone Amp to run my Ortho's).

 

The HDAV1.3 uses the following:

 

24-bit D-A Converter of Digital Sources:
TI Burr-Brown PCM1796 *4 (123dB SNR, Max. 192kHz/24bit)

 

Does anyone think these opamps are good, I have herd good reports about Burr Brown 1794 opamps.

 

I have been given some PRIR's from the AiX studio's, although I will have to do my own at some stage soon after aquiring the A8.

post #1238 of 2713

Quote:

Originally Posted by blubliss View Post

I also did a 2.0 measurement (Wilson something) and have the same issue with the bass, so I never listen to that.  I use Senn HD600, but have tried with other phones too.  I wonder if something needs to be changed with the bass settings for 2.0?  I've been meaning to ask Lorr but have not done it.


Hi, with Lorr's guidance, I set up Bass redirection for my Maggies 2.0 and Sashas 5.0 profiles with excellent results.

maggies 3.7 with BR is a quite different animal, with strong bass and much more balanced sound signature.

Likewise for Sashas 5.0,  very powerful low end, and smooths out the slightly "live" room signature at the Sashas at Glenn Poor's room.

still trying to fine-tune the proper Sub woofer level for the bass redirection, as the Oppo 93, which feeds the realiser, attenuates the subwoofer channel by - 15 db; according to Oppo's service department.

 

the mix block for the Maggies 2.0 were set as follows:

L channel block    R channel block

L = 1.0                  L = 0.0

R = 0.0                 R = 1.0

C = 0.5                 C = 0.5

SW = 0.5              SW = 0.5

 

Volume = - 5db

delay = 14 ms

 

The mix blocks for the Sashas 5.0 were set up as indicated on pages 77 and 78 of the user manual.

 

 

 

 

post #1239 of 2713

Thank you for this, I will give it a try sometime.

post #1240 of 2713

Smyth should build an HDMI decoder box. I know they didn't want to build it into the Realiser, for fear of it getting outdated. That is exactly why a small standalone unit would be perfect. My DVDO Edge can do the switching, so all I would need is 1 HDMI in/out, with DD/DTS decoding. I don't even have the HDMI upgrade on my unit yet, because I don't have the money, but when I do, I would gladly spend another few hundred for something like that.

post #1241 of 2713
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDMan View Post

No B-Stock left anyway, HDMI it is, now just need to save up the $$$. Yeh I will be feeding the A8 Realiser with the Asus HDAV1.3 soundcard, decodes the signal before passing it to A8 (then onto a beefy Headphone Amp to run my Ortho's).

 

The HDAV1.3 uses the following:

 

24-bit D-A Converter of Digital Sources:TI Burr-Brown PCM1796 *4 (123dB SNR, Max. 192kHz/24bit)

 

Does anyone think these opamps are good, I have herd good reports about Burr Brown 1794 opamps.

 

I have been given some PRIR's from the AiX studio's, although I will have to do my own at some stage soon after aquiring the A8.




I think the A8 uses a PCM1796 DAC.

If you are feeding the Realiser a analog signal then the Realiser will do a A/D conversion.

Don't know anything about a HDAV1.3

Yes I use the HE6's (ortho's) with a Liquid Fire Amp. I use a Oppo BD player with two HDMI out ports 1 for video and 1 for audio out to my Realiser, I use a Toslink out from the Realiser to my W4S DAC and then out to my Liquid Fire amp via interconnects.

post #1242 of 2713
Quote:
Originally Posted by josesol07 View Post

Quote:

Hi, with Lorr's guidance, I set up Bass redirection for my Maggies 2.0 and Sashas 5.0 profiles with excellent results.

maggies 3.7 with BR is a quite different animal, with strong bass and much more balanced sound signature.

Likewise for Sashas 5.0,  very powerful low end, and smooths out the slightly "live" room signature at the Sashas at Glenn Poor's room.

still trying to fine-tune the proper Sub woofer level for the bass redirection, as the Oppo 93, which feeds the realiser, attenuates the subwoofer channel by - 15 db; according to Oppo's service department.

 

the mix block for the Maggies 2.0 were set as follows:

L channel block    R channel block

L = 1.0                  L = 0.0

R = 0.0                 R = 1.0

C = 0.5                 C = 0.5

SW = 0.5              SW = 0.5

 

Volume = - 5db

delay = 14 ms

 

The mix blocks for the Sashas 5.0 were set up as indicated on pages 77 and 78 of the user manual.

 

 

 

 


So I gave this a try and it does sound better.  Just to make sure, that last variable, delay, is located in a different place than the mix block area?  I found a delay in the individual channel settings (L & R) in the preset area and changed it there.  Is that right?  The volume setting is in the mix block?

 

I am so used to headphone listening, I 've got to get used to this presentation.  The speakers are Sashas with Jadis amps and pre-amp.  

 

post #1243 of 2713

Hi Blubliss,

After selecting the profile for the Sashas, press MENU - TAC, set the cursor on SETUP and press OK.

you will get the screen for VOL and delay, selecting either one with the cursor.

the delay I have chosen is equivalent to the distance from sitting location where I was sitting at, while measuring, to the phantom center channel between L and R speakers.

In my case is about 13 to 14 feet.  That would be the distance to the virtual subwoofer.

Do not set individual delays for L or R speakers.

 

One way to do instant comparison between the processed 2.0 emulation profile and the unprocessed (normal in-the-head signal) is by configuring a MIX block, according to directions on page 45 of the user manual. That function is named Virtualization Byass.

 

Again, select the desired profile, press MIX,  and select with cursor MIX BLOCK L-ch. Press OK, and Set L at 1.0, all others to 0.0.

repeat for MIX BLOCK R-ch, setting R at 1.0 and the others to 0.0.

Press Exit and you are all set.

while listening, you can switch from processed to unprocessed signal by toggling  between MIX and SVS buttons.

 

Hope this helps.

regards,

Jose

 

 

 

 

 

post #1244 of 2713

Thank you Jose.  Is the MENU > TAC area also where you set up the mix block you mentioned before (in your first post about this)?  I used the MIX button and did it there.  Maybe that is not active unless I press mix?

 

Also, what is your rolloff in the MENU> TAC>SETUP area?

post #1245 of 2713

For Bass redirection select profile Pn, then press MENU TAC.

For Virtualization Bypass select profile, then press MIX.

for comparison, switch between MIX (unprocessed) and SVS (processed) buttons.

remember to save the profile where MIX was configured, by pressing MENU  - Pn (profile adjusted), then scroll down to Save Preset.

otherwise, once you leave that profile, it won't save the MIX blocks

I set rolloff Frequency at 80 Hz.

 

Which Sasha model did you measure?

regards

Jose

 

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