i use ifi dsd micro, alo mk3 B, and I use neutron music player
I grave for big bass, and and warmth to music
The original post is several years old now. Is there a new method/software that has been discovered or should I just follow the original instructions from 2009?
I will be using Windows with Foobar (I guess?)
I will be plugging my Koss Pro-DJ200 directly into my laptop
Any recommendations are appreciated. Thanks!
It's still complicated to know what the right equalization for headphones should be, with all the HRTF / FF / DF stuff that has to be taken into account, to make headphones sound "natural".
So i read through all the "Equalization-Threads" on this site, and in the end went for targeting the "combined field"(http://www.head-fi.org/t/361303/ideal-headphone-frequency-reponse-graph/15#post_7703526), and used the raw response from my headphones(K712) as a starting point.
Also what speaks for "combined field"-response, is the raw response from the HD800 and Stax SR-009(best headphone available?), which are highly regarded when it comes to "naturalness" and come relatively close to the "combined field" curve.
The most unusal compensation, compared to equalizing with SineGen to the "Equal Loudeness Contour", is a boost at 5Khz in my case with the K712.
I used EqualizerAPO for the whole, and the "Peace-GUI" for L/R differences(could have done everything with Peace, but was already used to the normal APO-GUI).
Very important for "Coherency" was to compensate for L/R differences- and dips on my headphones above 7Khz.
my APO-settings for my AKG K712(without L/R compensation):
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Preamp: -9.8 dB
Filter: ON LS Fc 42 Hz Gain 7.5 dB
Filter: ON LSC 12 dB Fc 200 Hz Gain 2 dB
Filter: ON PK Fc 1500 Hz Gain 3 dB BW Oct 0.2442
Filter: ON PK Fc 2400 Hz Gain -4 dB BW Oct 0.2333
Filter: ON PK Fc 2918 Hz Gain 4 dB BW Oct 0.2333
Filter: ON PK Fc 5000 Hz Gain 5 dB BW Oct 0.2442
Filter: ON HS 12 dB Fc 11000 Hz Gain -2 dB
Filter: ON PK Fc 9000 Hz Gain 4 dB BW Oct 0.1442
Filter: ON PK Fc 10000 Hz Gain 5 dB BW Oct 0.1442
Filter: ON PK Fc 10770 Hz Gain 6 dB BW Oct 0.1442
Filter: ON PK Fc 11750 Hz Gain -3 dB BW Oct 0.1442
Filter: ON PK Fc 13300 Hz Gain -3 dB BW Oct 0.1442
So this is still more or less an approximation to the "combined field", but from what i can "hear" so far, i'm not in doubt at all that it's the right direction.
It sounds way more coherent to me now, and gains alot of depth so that you can "hear the room"(i was looking in windows, if i somehow had reverb enabled anywhere)
again, my references:
- "ideal" headphone raw-response (combined field)
- raw-responses of HD800's and SR-009's
- raw-response from my headphones
- statement from someone(now banned here), that the HD590's(which i happen to own aswell, and so knew what i was missing on the K712's) sound "close" to his Speaker-setup, that he apparently equalizied/tweaked to "flat" for over 30 years(that last remark he wrote somewhere else tho): http://www.head-fi.org/t/612665/how-far-can-eq-really-go-towards-truly-equalizing-headphones/15#post_8436265
( There should be just heaphones with a ruler flat raw frequency response, and then you only had to add your "ideal" curve and be done. )
Hmmh, equalization can totally correct "flawed" sonic balance, in my case of Brainwavz M2.
This makes these show all their excellent qualities that are masked by overblown bass...
Funny that w/ Hybrids (included) the highest frequency hump is completely out of proportion - gets extra 6 dB - and almost impossible to equalize.
Latest curve w/ Comply T-200 (not simplified yet):
Comply also round out the bass - it loses some harshness where not warranted. (What I call ringy bass.)
Note that I always attempt to keep 1kHz at 0 dB.
I'm quite sure you could go the hardware route. Before I got my Varicurve FCS-926, I was using an inexpensive Behringer graphic equalizer, which had RCA connectors. I think you should be able to find a parametric equalizer that uses RCA connectors.
It's been awhile since I did the research on this, but I believe the 920 is mostly a slave module, designed to be controlled by another module. Without a graphical display, it would be very difficult, I would think, to program the 920. The 926 has the display built in.
If you only have a laptop, these units may not work for you, because you need XLR connectors for the audio; I very much doubt that your computer has XLR connectors.
I'm still thoroughly enjoying my 926; it's a great unit.