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Valab NOS DAC - subjective listening and modifications - Page 63

post #931 of 1994
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeW View Post
<snip>
edit: im not big into modding, but adding a pulse transformer to the coax seems easy and worthwhile, can anyone point me to a part# and source for a good one?
The Metcal iron that Bill recommended would be a really good iron, particularly at that price.

For a pulse transformer, the Newava is what I would use:

Digi-Key - 470-1003-ND (Manufacturer - S22083)

A couple of threads that may be of interest:

DIYHiFi.org &bull; View topic - diy spdif input pulse transformer?

DIYHiFi.org &bull; View topic - Anyone interested in..............

They might get into it a bit much, but that's better than no backup at all.
post #932 of 1994
thanks for the replies, and for the iron recomendation, I normally use a radio shack iron for most projects, and it sucks real bad. I have to buy a new one every other use, things are a piece of crap.
post #933 of 1994
Thread Starter 

eisenmusings

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeW View Post
thanks for the replies, and for the iron recomendation, I normally use a radio shack iron for most projects, and it sucks real bad. I have to buy a new one every other use, things are a piece of crap.
Mike,

If you don't want to spring for the $100, a $14 Weller beats the pants of the RatShack job. I am cheeeeep and have been using that $14 Weller for all the work I've done on the VALAB. I should spring for the one on Ebay but I must have a little Scottish in me. I just wont part with the money.

I have done some hack looking work; I think a nice iron would help me in that regard. But using the entry level Weller, well, er, I think I have sharpened my skills having a tougher road to go. The cat knocked the iron over and bent the neelde tip a wee bit. I like it that way, sort of like Dizzy's horn. I can lay it flat along two leads to solder them together or get a better angle with the point for precision.

Someone once told me to be in the process rather than be goal oriented when doing this kind of work. Keep your eye on each step, Zen-like. You get looking ahead at the goal, trying to hurry things up maybe, and things go wrong.

It's a poor workman that blames his tools.

-Pat
post #934 of 1994
Some VERY VERY early (~50 hours?) observations here:

The power LED is red on the one I got, not the SUPPPPER bright blue that I remembered from the beginning of the thread.

First thing I noticed was how clean the background was compared to my humming monica USB - relatively noise free even with the amp volume pot turned all the way to the loudest. I was expecting something noisier, having read Kevin's disclaimer about the DAC being a vintage gear with inherent hum and all. Pleasantly surprised I was, you might say To be fair, I am sure hum on the monica is only the byproduct of my pitiful soldering for the RCA out plugs.

At this point I broke down and decided to finally give a proper enclosure the monica so long deserved. Finished drilling some holes on a diecast-aluminum case. Got rid of all the foul half-assed soldering on the RCA connectors and the power adapter I previously had due to bad equipment/workmanship (on my own part ) and gonna have that done right this time. With monica taken to school for enclosure/repairs, I had to rely on my frail memory to establish some kind of a reference point for my new DAC. Same goes for my beloved HD650 as one of the drivers is awaiting its replacement.

Valab's DAC felt a tad bright, not harsh, clean and full sounding with good body to it. Tonality was a bit weird and very colored in comparison. Monica sounded more natural in that regard. For the lack of a better term, I would say it felt like putting on a pair of shades when going from monica usb to valab. The difference is huge and readily noticeable, but not necessarily in favor for of one of the other. I assumed this would have to change with burn-in, especially in the light of all that has been said about the radical changes in sound through the burn-in process. I set it aside and left music on for burn-in. The peculiar bit I already noticed at this point was I somehow liked K701 better on this DAC - still too lean sounding but more fun than before and not harsh.

The secondary computer that I have all my music stored and use for music playback was acking up big time, and I ended up ordering a new mobo As a byproduct, I have lost some time that otherwise could have gone into burn-in hours.

Earlier today, my newest audio toy - ATH AD2000s have arrived in mail. My patience was wearing thin and I just had to try them for a test drive, though I knew that I would end up confusing myself by adding another dimension of unknowns in the new cans. With AD2000, sibilance is tolerable, sweet and immersive sound overall. Percussion instruments don't seem to have a great detail, and they seem to get buried in the sweet, yet a bit exuberant mids. Bass is not lean, but what I used to hear as lower notes on my HD650s seem to have shifted a bit higher, as in midbass soudning more like mid-high. Subtle but noticeable. I wonder this has more to do with AD2000, its matchup with the amp, or the Valab. As the whole I like it more than the other cans.

K701s need more listen, but like I said earlier I think I like them more than I did with my monica. Not that harsh either.

HD600s were less impressive, surprisingly being the harshest of the three.


I am too new to my Fostrex T20RP, but it suffices to say this one is not quite up there with the other cans albeit the uniquely relaxing and fun sound.

Luckily, the oddness in tonality has vanished with time, as expected (unless my ears have adjusted to it). Overall, I think the Valab a much brighrer sound compared to my monica. I even had to go back to a 6GU7 tube for the PPX3 that I found a bit too rolled off on my monica, and it still sounds brigther than monica. I don't think I mind bright sound, as long as it stays fatigue-free, or relatively so. Brightness was more readily noticeable as time went on, either that or I wasn't testing with the right tracks at the beginning. On certain tracks, this is not a big deal, though cymbals still don't quite sound right to me. Then there are some of my favorite songs with heavy sibilance, making me cringe every time. Would this improve with more burn-in? I have my fingers crossed.

I wish it was a touch less brighter, and definitely want to tame sibilance. If modding is what it takes to get there, I will have to seriously consider getting my hands dirty with that That is my biggest (and probably the only) gripe with the DAC.

Again, all this is premature observation based on relatively short listen with probably inadequate burn in.
post #935 of 1994
I notice the valab to be bright and forward but with body to balance it. It is just the top end and low end extremes which are not quite there. The dac matches very well with my sony sa3000 and little dot mk2 tube amp
post #936 of 1994
Thread Starter 

bright

that brightness comes from the tantalum output caps. they are a little bit hifi sparkly, ok spatially, and lean. over time, burn-in, they form out with more weight but retain the sparkle.
post #937 of 1994
My valab is at 5 days burn in now and I like the sound a lot. I will be getting the EMU 0404 in 2 days and I will be comparing them with these using my ATs, Sonys, and Senns
post #938 of 1994
Quote:
Originally Posted by PatOMalley View Post
that brightness comes from the tantalum output caps. they are a little bit hifi sparkly, ok spatially, and lean. over time, burn-in, they form out with more weight but retain the sparkle.
Like I said, I remain optimistic about the changes burn-in may bring... In the meantime, is there any sort of replacement caps you would recommend for more soothing and relaxed sound?
post #939 of 1994
Thread Starter 

caps

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikoLayer View Post
Like I said, I remain optimistic about the changes burn-in may bring... In the meantime, is there any sort of replacement caps you would recommend for more soothing and relaxed sound?
I am using 1uF cryo'd Obbligato's + .1uF Mundorf silver oil.

I would go for the 1uF Mundorfs, and may yet.... Another of us recommends keeping the spec up to 4.7uF at ouput.
post #940 of 1994
http://www.partsconnexion.com/capaci...ndorf_so.html#

MUNDORF-055-70282
M-CAP® Supreme Silver & Oil 1uf / 1200V 30*39
$44.37 $44.37 pcX Price

Is this the one you are referring to? Also, would I have to desolder the existing tantalum caps and replace them with these completely? Sorry I am very new to this hehe
I tried searching the thread with Mundorf, but it was a bit challenging read for me.
post #941 of 1994
I am new here, I have been reading this forum as I am about to buy a new dac (probably going to be a valab) as my heavily modded Marantz DAC stage died on me (tubed analog output, gold crown 1541 etc etc).
I've been playing with audio gear for a couple of decades now, designing and building interlinks(carbon), transistor (a Le Monstre) and tube amps (currently a 6V6 triode SE), speakers (twoway Podszus Goerlich 15 cm with a scanspeak 2905 and hardly any filter) etc. Have been modding quite a few CD players/dac stages in the past so I am loooking forward to get my hands on a new DAC.

Pat, did you ever try to remove the clamp on your CD transport? I did at some point and found it to make a lot of difference(improvement) to the sound, just remove it and use three tiny blobs of bluetak on the disc rotor to provide enough friction to spin the cd...it is a bit of a hassle getting the amount right and get it squeezed flat enough for the CD not to wobble.

Usually the disc drawer still will function to get your CDs in and out, sometimes it is easier to rebuild to a top loader.

The output cap value should only matter in case the impedance of the amp is lowish or your interlink resistance is high IMHO, just give the 1 uF a try and listen or measure whether you lose bass(after playing them in).
post #942 of 1994
can these mundorfs fit inside a luxery 09 dac? without removing the transformer or doing anything exotic? they sure are expensive.. ouch. Is there anything cheaper that is a big upgrade?
post #943 of 1994
Thread Starter 

room

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeW View Post
can these mundorfs fit inside a luxery 09 dac? without removing the transformer or doing anything exotic? they sure are expensive.. ouch. Is there anything cheaper that is a big upgrade?
You can fit Obbligato 1uF caps. Wedge them in the general area where the original caps were. Or use just a .1uF bypass on the originals.
The Obbligatos are good but cheaper.
post #944 of 1994
what kind of obbligato, gold, copper, etc. What you mean bypass the originals? sorry about my ignorance, i know just enough to be dangerous with a soldering iron lol.
post #945 of 1994
Thread Starter 

GOLD

get the gold, they are nonconductive.

To bypass means to add a cap in parallel with existing caps by soldering the leads to exact connects where the originals are. You can actually connect the leads further up on the existing caps leads.

Bypassing the originals you would only needs a smaller value thus a smaller physical sized cap.

There are several pictures showing caps in bypass back in this thread.
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