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Valab NOS DAC - subjective listening and modifications - Page 116

post #1726 of 1993
I think Mikes talking about his valab 3
post #1727 of 1993
Thread Starter 
Same difference though. The SSOM works on both.
post #1728 of 1993
the 2.1 dac does not even have the inductor im talking about. Your refering to the 2 inductors in the "Low pass filter" those are not required. There is actually an inductor that connects the Main PCB to the DAC board. It can be seen on the 2.5 dac and higher. It's got nothing to do with the output.I tried bypassing it with silver wire and it did not work. It can be seen below.

post #1729 of 1993
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeW View Post
give that 1 Megaohm green Inductor between the dac board and main PCB a close look. I broke mine, I did not realize it even. It is fragile and will break with slight pressure on the dac PCB. I suspected it as a problem one day and grabbed it with some tweezers and it snapped right in half, it was already broken but I could not see it because the coating had not broke. That inductor is required and cannot be bypassed with wire. You can use the ones you took out of the low pass filter network to replace it.

BTW an inductor is not measured in Ohms (unit ofr resistance) but in Henry or rather milliHenry (in this case), asking for a 1 meg inductor might just solicit a 'we keep them with the drills for square holes' response in an electronics shop ;-)

Pat if you do not hear any saturation noises (loss of bass/loss of detail/ high distortion)you should be fine as it is quite impossible to burn them trannies with this sort of micro power.
post #1730 of 1993
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeW View Post
give that 1 Megaohm green Inductor between the dac board and main PCB a close look. I broke mine, I did not realize it even. It is fragile and will break with slight pressure on the dac PCB. I suspected it as a problem one day and grabbed it with some tweezers and it snapped right in half, it was already broken but I could not see it because the coating had not broke. That inductor is required and cannot be bypassed with wire. You can use the ones you took out of the low pass filter network to replace it.
Thanks Mike, That inductor looks fine. The 2 that I removed (from the output filter) measure about 25 ohms. I have no way to measure inductance. When I meaure this single inductor (with ohm meter) I measure about 720 ohms. You mention 1 Megaohm so I guess it's OK.
post #1731 of 1993
I received my TXs today :-)

Guess I have to sort the volume adjustment of my amp soon as I'll not be able to assess the improvement properly with a clipping amp.....
post #1732 of 1993
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcelnl View Post
I received my TXs today :-)
Guess I have to sort the volume adjustment of my amp soon as I'll not be able to assess the improvement properly with a clipping amp.....
Marcel, How long did the shipping take to arrive? I'm waiting for 2,5 weeks now and I'm starting to get a bit worried because there are 26 resistors on its way. Normally a package from the States takes 7 to 10 days...
post #1733 of 1993
Thread Starter 
mine took less than two weeks
post #1734 of 1993
I ordered them about two weeks ago (think the order was finalized on the 26th), in the confirmation mail I was informed they expected ship date of the 9th of Feb.
The envelope was stamped on Feb 5th.

Just ask them, I found doing business with TX a warm bath!
post #1735 of 1993

Possible help

Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum View Post
Thanks Wood! I had a bent leg on one of my DACS....

Sorted that out and now I have sound coming out of the left channel also.

But I still have MASSIVE amount of distortion coming out of both channels....

I have my 2 Texas Compnent resistors laquered to a small piece of wood. I have soldered 2 of the resistor legs together and connected that to my ground. Each of the other legs is connected via wire to the board.

This wire is connected to another wire which goes to my Dueland output cap. I have put my caps in another box. The other leg of my Dueland cap goes directly to the RCA output.

I have attached pictures.

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Scott
If you are getting massive distortion you may simply have the wrong resistance for the I/V conversion. You may have partially shorted the resistors during the mounting process. They are "nude" and the adhesive may be hygroscopic and for sure the wood is. Measure them again as installed if you have not already.
I have the Dueland's and my Chameleon mounted in one large box. I used solid silver wire with cotton insulation (from VH Audio) to connect them. If you do not notice any RFI then don't spend a bunch on cable to get rid of a problem that does not exist. Buy a nice aluminum box on the web which will help keep out RFI and it will reduce the dust and other crap from getting on your internals of the DAC.
post #1736 of 1993
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcelnl View Post
I ordered them about two weeks ago (think the order was finalized on the 26th), in the confirmation mail I was informed they expected ship date of the 9th of Feb.
The envelope was stamped on Feb 5th.

Just ask them, I found doing business with TX a warm bath!
I totally agree with you. I ordered there before. Im just afraid that the package got lost in the post.

Anyway, I'm very curious what you think of them. As I wrote before: I fell in love with them
post #1737 of 1993
Thread Starter 

distortion ...

Why not try a little point to point?
Get the resistor tagged direct to the ground and to the caps lead?
May have to buy two more TXs though.
post #1738 of 1993
I will probably be able to put them to work on Friday, will definitely solder them point to point as I have heard the difference in SQ between a pcb and hard wired.....

I'd contact TX to hear what type of package they sent and with whom and when, a parcel using UPSP might take a while.....took them 5 weeks to deliver some sunglasses once...
post #1739 of 1993
i have a question about changing the 8 capacitors on the dac chips, stock valab has 10uf surface mount caps there, i remember Bill switched them with blackgate 47uf caps. My question is, why not just leave the original caps there and solder the new ones in parallel with them. What would the effect of that be?
post #1740 of 1993
depends on the Quality of your bypass, but I plan to do exactly that using some MKP or MKS film caps before I take of the smd stuff.

Yet taking the smd caps off is driven by the fact that I do not trust the SQ of stuff I can barely see(so far that has proven to be right though), I like huge paper in oil capacitors and all that ;-)
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