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Valab NOS DAC - subjective listening and modifications - Page 114

post #1696 of 1987
post #1697 of 1987

Tranquilized

Quote:
Originally Posted by Newk Yuler View Post

I've been watching the talk about the dB Audio Labs Tranquility USB DAC. There is quite a buzz for it, making a significant presence for itself at the last RMAF and I mention it here because it would be very interesting to compare its innards to the Valab/Chameleon designs. It's similarly NOS 16/44.1 with every aspect of design and construct given extreme care to maximize its potential. The USB is not async but apparently still serves the DAC very, very well. Unfortunately the actual components have been kept on the down low, even by those who have purchased one.
I'm very sorry, much prefer the open policy of Teradak, they actually encourage us to mod there kit.

I would never ever buy a dac of a company that will not even reveal what its Dac chip/s are. Good luck to anyone who does.

If anybody here wants it here is the forum

The dB Audio Labs Tranquility DAC - Wow!
post #1698 of 1987

Valabulousness

i was gonna get someone else to do it, but he was on vacation, so i took a chance and tried to do some mods myself, (yes i got a feel for the desoldering process on some old circuit board first) right now a 340r tx2575 is doing I/V duty,

hearing more detail everywhere, more control on the bottom,

since that worked for me, next step is to bypass the output filters

btw, on my version 2.5 there are a couple of holes underneath the stock I/V resistor that the tx2575 fits into, since its lead spread is much less than the stock resistor, makes it real convenient.
post #1699 of 1987
ok, the output filter and coupling caps on my dac now bypassed, i dont have the words right now to describe the difference, but i do notice that i suddenly want to listen to a bunch of music
post #1700 of 1987
Quote:
Originally Posted by errnst View Post
ok, the output filter and coupling caps on my dac now bypassed, i dont have the words right now to describe the difference, but i do notice that i suddenly want to listen to a bunch of music
Now that is EXACTLY what modding is about !
post #1701 of 1987
Pat, concerning the Cinemags, I would think there is some benefit from the isolation they create. Any thoughts on that concerning the improvements you get? I looked around the net and found some people use this type of transformer to 'color' sound. Any idea how the steel version you have (and I'm getting) sounds compared to the 50% and 80% nickel versions?

Edit: Here's a partial answer to that question from Pat a little over a year ago when he was still planning to get the Cinemags:

Yes, Bill, I am.

Somewhere between that and this Pat changed his mind about the nickel version and ordered the steel:

Just got around to making my order for two Cinemag CMOB-2S transformers.

Pat's comments on the steel Cinemags after first installed:

"i want to cook you a soup that doesn't disolve"

Pat also says concerning steel versus nickel:

Hi-Ni, huh? I was asking myself the same thing. word around the campfire out there is that in some cases the Hi-Ni can be sweeter, more detailed [I read thinner here] but that the Steel core is more linear with a better bass response. Seems that way re bass response here in the basement. Weight is a benefit to me. Not drudge, darkness, slowness, etc but that filled in thing like going from a receiver to a high current amp. So without second guessing what I now hear it is steel all the way.

I apologize for not doing a bit more digging before I re-opened the Cinemags can of worms. I figured the cost-to-impulse ratio was low enough to commit based on Pat's most recent comments on the benefits of the Cinemags. At least I'm bringing the info back up to the front for newer folks to see.

==================

The schematic for the series shows the signal on the brown and orange terminals. It's a little early to ask but how do you have your Cinemags wired to the RCAs?

Edit: The CMOB-2S Cinemags are $22.10 from the manufacturer each not including shipping. They have to be made and the channel frames are an option.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wood View Post
I'm very sorry, much prefer the open policy of Teradak, they actually encourage us to mod there kit.

I would never ever buy a dac of a company that will not even reveal what its Dac chip/s are. Good luck to anyone who does.
I understand and I'm completely cool with all that but these are different grades of DACs. The Tranquility is suppose to be a simple but no holds barred NOS design with no better way to tweak it. They even cryo treat much of it. (The Tranquility is $1500 USD.) It apparently uses a similar output stage because they tout some flavor of Mundorf Supreme caps there. Looking at the internal components could suggest something for modding the Valab/Chameleon designs. Sooner or later some good information will be leaked on the internal components of the Tranquility. I'll keep an eye on developments but I won't give purchase a serious consideration until they release a version with an I2S and/or SPDIF input (which SPDIF is in consideration for a future model). They consider SPDIF to be a flawed method of feeding the DAC and they're working on ways to make it the best it can be.
post #1702 of 1987
Thread Starter 

Newk

I am going out of town for 3 days but will take the cover off my enclosure and have a look at how I did it. I will also take a shot and post it.
post #1703 of 1987

I killed my Version 3.0

It doesn't work! I think I may have done something wrong here....

OK, so far I have replaced the 8 caps on the DACs with 47uF Rubycon Blackgate FK's.

I then removed the Output Caps and both IV resistors. I then connected one arm of a Texas Component 340 ohm resistor directly to the DAC and the other arm to grnd. Did this on both channels. I used the same point on the board that the original IV resistor was connected.

I then connected one leg of my new Output Cap directly to the DAC (in the exact same point as my new IV resistor) and the other leg to the positive RCA output connector. I did this for both channels.

I also connect all my grounds to the same location, and put ground leads on both of my output RCA outputs and my Coaxial input connector to the same location (star ground).

I now get NO sound out of my left channel and very little out of my right but with MASSIVE amount of distortion.....

The only other thing I did is I pulled the 8 DACs out while I soldered in the Rubycons and then put them back in.

Sigh..... ????

post #1704 of 1987
check the dac chip legs sometimes they bend up when you put them in, and orientaton. This problem is the same I have when chips are knackered.
post #1705 of 1987
Skibum, I did the same with my V 2.1 and discovered you may have to add a 47K resistor between ground and hot at the RCA output as you have bypassed this resistor when you wired the output cap directly to the RCA output. You will need a resistor for both outputs. Hope this will solve it.
post #1706 of 1987
Thread Starter 

like this

Cap leg to DAC leg then out to RCA.
Resis leg to cap leg that touches dac ping then to ground.

in other works cap touches dac ping then out to RCA.

Resistor touches ground the touche cap leg that is DAC-side.

Do not have bot cap and resistor on the DAC pin - no room for all that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum View Post
It doesn't work! I think I may have done something wrong here....

OK, so far I have replaced the 8 caps on the DACs with 47uF Rubycon Blackgate FK's.

I then removed the Output Caps and both IV resistors. I then connected one arm of a Texas Component 340 ohm resistor directly to the DAC and the other arm to grnd. Did this on both channels. I used the same point on the board that the original IV resistor was connected.

I then connected one leg of my new Output Cap directly to the DAC (in the exact same point as my new IV resistor) and the other leg to the positive RCA output connector. I did this for both channels.

I also connect all my grounds to the same location, and put ground leads on both of my output RCA outputs and my Coaxial input connector to the same location (star ground).

I now get NO sound out of my left channel and very little out of my right but with MASSIVE amount of distortion.....

The only other thing I did is I pulled the 8 DACs out while I soldered in the Rubycons and then put them back in.

Sigh..... ????

post #1707 of 1987
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcelnl View Post
Can't wait to get my hands on them....

I am playing with the thought to re-create my 6 step volume switch with those TXs...will be costly but it's now made with crappy metal film resistors......probably is more cost effective to use PRPs or shinkohs or the likes for that purpose. 14*16 USD vs 14*? but if they perform well I just might....
I have 24 TXs on the way for my Tentlabs Volume Control.
Once heard the TX, there's no way back.
post #1708 of 1987
Skibum, can you upload a picture?
IMHO you do not need the 47K resistor at all, you may have damaged/misconnected a ground wire?


yeah the remote controlled volume control, I looked at it a while ago but ca not find how it attenuates (series/parallel). I am playing with the thought to build a lightspeed, or a similar device.
You must like the TXses as 24*16 USD adds up ;-)
post #1709 of 1987
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wood View Post
check the dac chip legs sometimes they bend up when you put them in, and orientaton. This problem is the same I have when chips are knackered.
Thanks Wood! I had a bent leg on one of my DACS....

Sorted that out and now I have sound coming out of the left channel also.

But I still have MASSIVE amount of distortion coming out of both channels....

I have my 2 Texas Compnent resistors laquered to a small piece of wood. I have soldered 2 of the resistor legs together and connected that to my ground. Each of the other legs is connected via wire to the board.

This wire is connected to another wire which goes to my Dueland output cap. I have put my caps in another box. The other leg of my Dueland cap goes directly to the RCA output.

I have attached pictures.

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Scott
LL
LL
LL
post #1710 of 1987
Quote:
Originally Posted by PatOMalley View Post
Cap leg to DAC leg then out to RCA.
Resis leg to cap leg that touches dac ping then to ground.

in other works cap touches dac ping then out to RCA.

Resistor touches ground the touche cap leg that is DAC-side.

Do not have bot cap and resistor on the DAC pin - no room for all that.
Thank you Pat, but I intended to do exactly what I think you are saying. From what I can see I believe I have. Would you mind looking at my photos?
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