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post #1516 of 1528

It's great that you were able to figure that out. Thanks!

 

So I think we now know that the 6N5S and 6N13S are not only electrically different from each other, but both are electrically different from a 6AS7. And this is very good to know for those of us who might be interested in rolling these tubes.

 

Cheers

post #1517 of 1528

 

I did a brief shootout betw a Shu Guang 6N5PJ, Svetlana C Winged 6N13, Tungsol5998 :

 

Quick Notes..

 

Attack :               TS ,              CWinged, SG

Air      :                CWinged.      TS,  SG 

Soundstage :      CWinged,      TS, SG

Resolution :         TS,CWinged,      SG

Bass Quantity :    TS,                SG, CWing

Mids/Liqudity  :    SG                TS, CWing

 

( Above In order of Most to Least..the 2nd n 3rd are closer/equal to each other)

 

========================================

The ShuGuang is slightly rounded in the attack, very pleasant to listen to, good soundstage, excellent for vocals, not weak in bass..quite balanced.

 

The Cwinged Russian is airy, tall big soundstage..music embracing me all around. comparatively thinner than the other two, but not a weakness still..v good for orchestra music.

 

The Tungsol is an attack dog, the bass impact n attack on the notes make itself known straightaway.

If u like slamm with a little bite...this is the tube. For Rock/Jazz music?

 

=============

Out of this shootout, i found an interesting GEM in the chinese tube.

It is like a chinese MULLARD of sorts to my ears...on this particular setup.

Do keep one in your tube-chest :P

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6N5PJ-Double-Triode-Valve-Tube-for-DarkVoice-Headphone-Amplifier-Preamplifier-/121421282202?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Valves_Vacuum_Tubes&hash=item1c4545bb9a

 

(Setup : audiogd nfb10.32..DV336se. front tube is a Psvane CV181Tii ...DT150)


Edited by Lorspeaker - 9/5/14 at 7:29pm
post #1518 of 1528
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lorspeaker View Post
 

 

I did a brief shootout betw a Shu Guang 6N5PJ, Svetlana C Winged 6N13, Tungsol5998 :

 

Quick Notes..

 

Attack :               TS ,              CWinged, SG

Air      :                CWinged.      TS,  SG 

Soundstage :      CWinged,      TS, SG

Resolution :         TS,CWinged,      SG

Bass Quantity :    TS,                SG, CWing

Mids  :                  SG                TS, CWing

 

( Above In order of Most to Least..the 2nd n 3rd are closer/equal to each other)

 

========================================

The ShuGuang is slightly rounded in the attack, very pleasant to listen to, good soundstage, excellent for vocals, not weak in bass..quite balanced.

 

The Cwinged Russian is airy, tall big soundstage..music embracing me all around. comparatively thinner than the other two, but not a weakness still..v good for orchestra music.

 

The Tungsol is an attack dog, the bass impact n attack on the notes make itself known straightaway.

If u like slamm with a little bite...this is the tube. For Rock/Jazz music?

 

=============

Out of this shootout, i found an interesting GEM in the chinese tube.

It is like a chinese MULLARD of sorts to my ears...on this particular setup.

Do keep one in your tube-chest :P

 

(Setup : audiogd nfb10.32..DV336se. front tube is a Psvane CV181Tii )

 

Good work, L...that certainly seems good news for the Feliks-Audio project, using 2 6N13S powers...especially as the maker of the GLENN amps stated over at the 6SN7 tube addicts thread that he found them the best - for his amps, anyway. So there should be no worries about them being "inferior" as stock tubes.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

 

Thanks mikelap....they sure are - CV2523s. These have the "pan" style bottom getter. I also have an Osram A1834, with bottom "D" getter and curved-bottom base. Plus 2 (dead :() GEC A1834s, again with curved- bottom base and "pan" getter and 1 (dead :(:() Osram A1834 with straight-bottom base and pan getter...good used examples of these tubes are VERY hard to find! (the UK merchant who is trying his best to find some that actually work amongst his stock of "ex-equipment" tubes gave me the shocking news that just over a year ago he had a stock of about 200!!! Then they started flying out...word had obviously spread across the web - via our forums?! - and either one hell of a lot of enthusiasts were made very happy, or some serious stock-piling/speculation took place...:mad:...Afraid I'm getting very cynical in my old age, lol!

 

 

Guys, I'm gonna cry (which I don't do very often) - what has this tube amp/rolling thing done to me, lol?...My very first working (Osram, curved-bottom base) and last remaining "ex-equipment" beauty has also just died..:(:(:(...and nearly took my HD598s with it, methinks! Only glad I didn't have the 650s in (have learned to be cautious with new (old) tubes...).

 

So now my fella's got to try and find three more...but to tell the truth, I'm now somewhat reluctant to take the risk...but no doubt I shall!!  Now I feel a bit better about having splashed out on the NOS CV 2523s...I pray they "live long and prosper"!

 

Be careful out there...;) 


Edited by hypnos1 - 9/5/14 at 2:40pm
post #1519 of 1528
Anyone have a link to a data sheet for the Chinese 6N5PJ?
post #1520 of 1528
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

 

 

 

Guys, I'm gonna cry (which I don't do very often) - what has this tube amp/rolling thing done to me, lol?...My very first working (Osram, curved-bottom base) and last remaining "ex-equipment" beauty has also just died..:(:(:(...and nearly took my HD598s with it, methinks! Only glad I didn't have the 650s in (have learned to be cautious with new (old) tubes...).

 

Be careful out there...;) 

 

Hey...my pro900 died on me when one of my tubes burnt out...is that what happened to your 598? 

i am unfamiliar with the science of it...is that a norm/danger to watch out for..

but to be honest, how does one watch out for tubes burning out??? :P

post #1521 of 1528
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrindingThud View Post

Anyone have a link to a data sheet for the Chinese 6N5PJ?

 

http://www.datasheetarchive.com/dl/Scans-008/Scans-00176494.pdf

post #1522 of 1528
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lorspeaker View Post
 

 

Hey...my pro900 died on me when one of my tubes burnt out...is that what happened to your 598? 

i am unfamiliar with the science of it...is that a norm/danger to watch out for..

but to be honest, how does one watch out for tubes burning out??? :P

 

Sorry to hear that,L...

 

Wish to God I knew, ...does anyone else?...

 

Luckily I had the 598s on straight from start-up - otherwise I'm quite sure they would have gone. The high-pitched "scratchy", bad connection type of distortion was just getting louder and louder to the point of hurting...not nice! Dread to think what chance there is when doing a 6-hour+  burn-in session, lol!! (Which is why the really savvy guys use a cheap pair of 'phones for such tasks...gonna get myself some right NOW!).

post #1523 of 1528
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

 

Sorry to hear that,L...

 

Wish to God I knew, ...does anyone else?...

 

Luckily I had the 598s on straight from start-up - otherwise I'm quite sure they would have gone. The high-pitched "scratchy", bad connection type of distortion was just getting louder and louder to the point of hurting...not nice! Dread to think what chance there is when doing a 6-hour+  burn-in session, lol!! (Which is why the really savvy guys use a cheap pair of 'phones for such tasks...gonna get myself some right NOW!).

 

Yes I would always advise using a old pair of headphones for burning in or when trying any new tubes for the first time and also for checking after doing mods on your amp. Failing that don't have your cans plugged in when you turn on, let the tube burn in for a few minutes whilst observing for arching first then plug your cans in. 

post #1524 of 1528
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamieMcC View Post
 

 

Yes I would always advise using a old pair of headphones for burning in or when trying any new tubes for the first time and also for checking after doing mods on your amp. Failing that don't have your cans plugged in when you turn on, let the tube burn in for a few minutes whilst observing for arching first then plug your cans in. 

 

Hi JMcC.

 

Good point about doing so after any kind of mod, as well  as new tubes...

 

Re your second suggestion, there were no signs at all of arcing from my bad tube...one day all was well, the next - OUCH!...:confused_face_2:.

 

Cheers.

 

Edit...ps. I don't doubt that if I'd left it much longer there would have been plenty of sparks, lol!!

 

Second edit...Even with the cans out (and saved!), can such a catastrophic failure have any damaging effect on the amp itself?


Edited by hypnos1 - 9/6/14 at 2:59am
post #1525 of 1528
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lorspeaker View Post

Hey...my pro900 died on me when one of my tubes burnt out...is that what happened to your 598? 
i am unfamiliar with the science of it...is that a norm/danger to watch out for..
but to be honest, how does one watch out for tubes burning out??? :P

Check out the DIY sites that build amps, speakers and such.

Many things could have happened.

An educated guess is that a capacitor went bad somewhere, this caused a resistor to fail, and your phones were exposed to high unregulated levels of A/C or dc for a few milliseconds as the tube attempted to keep running in the now unstable circult. Your headphones were weaker than the tube so they died first and the tube a few ms later. More than long enough to cook everything and make a little
hmmmmmmmmmThruup sound. Then silence.

Capacitors are usually the culprits these days, almost all made in China, for cheap. They go bad in computers, power supplies, flat screens, amps - everything. If you know what you are doing, 15 minutes and a few dollars later you can replace the cap and it's all good if the only bad component is the cap.

I had a very good sounding and inexpensive Chinese hybrid amp fry yesterday. I popped the chassis and the heat caused two wires in a harness from the preamp to amp section to eventually bake, harden, then become conductive to the chassis that was nearby. The two adjacent caps were cooked, and the amp went silent. It was made on an assembly line with tiny diodes and resistors on a complex PCB so repair won't be possible beyond replacing the caps and harness.
post #1526 of 1528
Quote:
Originally Posted by marone View Post


Check out the DIY sites that build amps, speakers and such.

Many things could have happened.

An educated guess is that a capacitor went bad somewhere, this caused a resistor to fail, and your phones were exposed to high unregulated levels of A/C or dc for a few milliseconds as the tube attempted to keep running in the now unstable circult. Your headphones were weaker than the tube so they died first and the tube a few ms later. More than long enough to cook everything and make a little
hmmmmmmmmmThruup sound. Then silence.

Capacitors are usually the culprits these days, almost all made in China, for cheap. They go bad in computers, power supplies, flat screens, amps - everything. If you know what you are doing, 15 minutes and a few dollars later you can replace the cap and it's all good if the only bad component is the cap.

I had a very good sounding and inexpensive Chinese hybrid amp fry yesterday. I popped the chassis and the heat caused two wires in a harness from the preamp to amp section to eventually bake, harden, then become conductive to the chassis that was nearby. The two adjacent caps were cooked, and the amp went silent. It was made on an assembly line with tiny diodes and resistors on a complex PCB so repair won't be possible beyond replacing the caps and harness.

 

In my case, only the tube n the can died...the amp was fine. whew...

i saw the arching on the tube, heard a sound on my left cup,

then the sound went off on that cup. 

i tried to "unscrew" the cup/driver...n ripped a support that held the driver to the  cup...

and tossed the whole can...frustrated. lol. 

post #1527 of 1528
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lorspeaker View Post

In my case, only the tube n the can died...the amp was fine. whew...
i saw the arching on the tube, heard a sound on my left cup,
then the sound went off on that cup. 
i tried to "unscrew" the cup/driver...n ripped a support that held the driver to the  cup...
and tossed the whole can...frustrated. lol. 

Yeah, it is difficult to beat electricity in a race to pull the plug before something is damaged.
post #1528 of 1528

Wonder if anyone else has noticed significant improvement over time with NOS 6AS7Gs...or is it confined to the (superb) GEC variants? With well over 100hrs now, what they are doing for my humble Little Dot MKIV SE (modded and with C3GSs as drivers) is beyond belief. As an added 'test' of my set-up's capabilities, I have just been listening to a remastered "Breakfast in America" by Supertramp, and once again have been blown away...things just keep getting better and better, and as the C3GSs have been in for much longer than the GECs I can only put it down to further burn-in of the latter. I now most definitely do NOT regret the $$$$ I had to pay for them NOS!

 

The mind boggles as to what they will do for the Feliks-Audio project, which is now set (hopefully) for working production units by the end of October...CAN'T WAIT!!

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