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post #91 of 159
Thread Starter 
You want to use a small soldering tip on a relatively low power iron when you are dealing with pin (at least that is how it works for me). You might also want to snap off the unused pins to get easier access.
post #92 of 159
I snapped pin7, which was my first solder, because the wire was too stiff. So I soldered to the stub of pin 7 and it works! I took apart a USB cable and used the wires from that for the internals. Also, I don't have the greatest soldering iron or the thinnest tip, but lots of flux helps the solder melt almost instantaneously. Also, I hold the assembly and wire together with clips and a single touch with the iron and solder at the same time completes my joint.

But I understand the frustration as my soldering iron has a rather large tip. I am probably going to buy the ZD 99 Solder Station.

I also tried to solder a mini B USB receptacle so I could charge while using the LOD, but because of the size of the pins and my iron, I couldn't kept having 2 pins shorting, so I just pulled them off. With a Sansa cable with the board pined out for USB I think that would be much easier to implement.

Does anyone know where I can get an official Sansa Fuze cable, as I didn't see one on the Sansa site? Although I could just buy a Griffen Powerdock for $40.
post #93 of 159
Thread Starter 
Maximo product also sell a licensed Sansa cable which looks the same as the original. I also saw a few 'original' cable flowing around eBay a while ago but not sure they are still around.

Also, I find 28~32AWG cable to be the easiest to work with. Any thing bigger than 24AWG will be very difficult.
post #94 of 159
Thank you so much Clieos!!
post #95 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
You want to use a small soldering tip on a relatively low power iron when you are dealing with pin (at least that is how it works for me). You might also want to snap off the unused pins to get easier access.
Thanks for the tips, Clie. Next time I'll snap off those tiny, pesky pins that I don't use.
post #96 of 159
Thread Starter 
This will probably be my last experiment with diyLOD: Belden 1804A mini star quad cable with 28AWG high-conductivity silver-plated copper alloy conductors, Nichicon bi-polar ES series 100uF, 6.3V.

Gonna love those green caps!


post #97 of 159
Hey everyone,

I finished up my LOD, had a bug in it last week and I put it away till this morning. Well my Fuzes battery is running low so I figured Id try my Sansa View and it works!!, the LOD works for the Sansa View also.
The sound is way better than out of the HO in using my cmoy. Coming out of the HO I have the cmoy volumne up all the way and the Fuze about half for a good loud volumne. With the LOD I have my cmoy set abut 1/4 and it is great, cant listen over 1/2 volumne you will end up deaf!LOL
Brian
post #98 of 159
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the info, Brian. Glad to know that you like the dock.
post #99 of 159
What does it mean? The signal is stronger out of the LOD vs HO?

Nice Ogre caps btw
post #100 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peyotero View Post
What does it mean? The signal is stronger out of the LOD vs HO?

Nice Ogre caps btw
Yes I do believe so, when I use the two different set ups (the LOD vs HO) there is a huge difference, atleast with my setup of a Sansa Fuze and cmoy.

Brian
post #101 of 159
Thread Starter 
...the way I see it, you can either run from it, or learn from it. - The Lion King

- Rafikki
post #102 of 159
Anybody wanna make one of these for me, I don't have time at the moment.
post #103 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
I tried 33K resistors before (which is what I have at hand), but didn't notice much change.
What change did you notice? Also, do you think a 2.7V cap will work?
post #104 of 159
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by average_joe View Post
What change did you notice? Also, do you think a 2.7V cap will work?
No much, in fact, none - hence I decide not to use them. As long as the caps are big enough (like >47uF) and you follow the right procedure on power up / down (volume at minimum at first), there is really no need to put in those resistors.

A 2.7V is probably pushing the limit. IIRC, the peak-to-peak AC output can be as high as 2V, so you want something in much higher rating to make sure the peak won't go over what the caps can handle. I'll recommend 6.3V to be the minimum, anything higher won't hurt. My own experience is, bi-polar cap above 6.3V is usually easier to find anyway.
post #105 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
No much, in fact, none - hence I decide not to use them. As long as the caps are big enough (like >47uF) and you follow the right procedure on power up / down (volume at minimum at first), there is really no need to put in those resistors.

A 2.7V is probably pushing the limit. IIRC, the peak-to-peak AC output can be as high as 2V, so you want something in much higher rating to make sure the peak won't go over what the caps can handle. I'll recommend 6.3V to be the minimum, anything higher won't hurt. My own experience is, bi-polar cap above 6.3V is usually easier to find anyway.
So if I am lazy and don't turn the volume down on the amp, the resistors are a good idea. Really not a big cost and only a little more soldering.

And from what I have read the caps will play a huge part in how the LOD sounds. I went with Blackgate caps but paid way too much for them with shipping and the extra charge for not hitting a minimum charge. I was wondering about the lower voltage since I found some EVerCAPs at Digikey in 2.7V, and they are smaller, but sounds like they won't work. I am still looking for other caps that have great sonic qualities at Newark, Mouser, or Digikey to save on shipping by ordering everything from one place. What are your thoughts on the quality of the caps?

Edit: do you know where I can find (or a part number) for the Ridax connector?
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