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post #31 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
I just want to point out that the diyLOD isn't carbon copy of Griffin dock, so that could account for audible difference (beside the fact that LO and HO are different, see below*). In the Griffin dock, there are decoupling SMD caps (220mF, 6.3V) in both L/R channels and 100K resistors bypass (downstream of caps). Both caps and resistors are not included in the current V1 diyLOD (no place to fit anyway).

I am not sure what the resistors are for but I'll include decoupling caps in the V2 diyLOD once I got my Ridax connector - no SMD of course, I'll use some Panasonic audio caps instead. I have ordered a Griffin dock as well, just so I don't have to play with cable when sync. I'll make a comparison once I received it.

*Also, I have re-read all the previous comments made on the original LOD thread at Sansa forum and exchanged some PM with sansafix on the Fuze's hardware detail. He has confirmed most of the points I made in post #2, plus some more. I'll update the thread when I have the time to sum everything up. So stay tuned.


Good Points....

Maybe the caps and the resistors are there for some protective reason because the dock also charges the Fuze as it plays.

Hey I have a question: When you jumper the pins to supply the necessary voltage to enable the line out, how does it effect the battery and the charging circuit?

Anyway, I'll be interested in your impressions of how the Dock sounds when you get it.

USG
post #32 of 159
Thread Starter 
The caps and the resistor are not linked directly to the USB part of the dock (though they share the same ground inside Fuze). My guess is they are all part of the decoupling design. If you are connecting the Griffin dock to a big pre-amp or a power amp, I would imagine you don't want any spike from the amp to feedback to the Fuze. For portable amp the issue is less apparent. For instant, I can hear some distortion when I turn the volume on some of my amps, but not always.

As for power, I didn't notice any significant increase in battery drain. All I can say is I haven't change my charging schedule (usually every two or three days) after I start to use LOD. My diyLOD can't be used when charged, so it won't be affected by the charging circuit (pin 7 is only there to enable LO, AFAIK). If you are planning to make a LOD+charge cable, I'll advice you not to jump pin7 and 22, but pin7 and pin1 (USB +5V) with a 47k ohm resistor (same as Griffin dock, I think waino also did this for his Fuze car adapter). Whether pin7 + 22 jump can be used when charging is out of my knowledge for now.
post #33 of 159
Charging works fine with the pin 7 to 22 jump. If you modify an existing Sandisk cable with the jump and addin the lineout audio connections (pis 27,28, gnd) to a mini plug or RCA jacks, you do NOT loose any functionality of the original cable. You can disconnect or reconnect to a charger with the player running and it will not hiccup. The cable will still work fine for data transfer, as the original circuit is not altered. The only change is that if the cable is connected, lineout is activated and headphone out is disabled.
ClieOS, you may want to rethink your using of the USB +5v to 47k to pin 7 setup. You will have to be connected to a USB port or adapter to get the lineout enable. If you want to use the cable while playing back from battery power in the Fuze, it won't work. The pin 22 to pin 7 jump will work on battery or USB power as long as the cable is connected.
post #34 of 159
Thread Starter 
Hi 14124all, thanks for the clear up. I haven't really gave any deep thought about LOD+charge cable as it really doesn't interest me. My main goal is just the LOD cable for my portable amp

Anyway, I received my Ridax connector today so I am able to finish the diyLOD v2 ahead of schedule. I am still in process of writing it up but here is a preview (see post #2 if you want to read more):



After all the painful pin soldering, I think I am done with DIY for a while.
post #35 of 159
ClieOS, Another fantastic job! Wow, that connector doesn't leave much room for anything! Just so you know, you're v2 drawing of the Griffin decoupler is correct, 220uF cap in series and 100k resistor in parallel for each channel.
post #36 of 159
That's awesome. I think I'm still going to buy a few Ridax connectors and make some more LOD's for my Fuze. I'll probably be using your v2 write-up.

I noticed that the line out signal is louder than the headphone out at 100%. Is that just how it is?

Today I finally tested the LOD with my car's aux input and noticed an even bigger difference in the sound through my car's sound system. When connecting through the headphone out, it seemed like some detail was lost even when I turned the volume up. However, with the line out it sounds a lot better. I knew there was a difference with the headphones, but it wasn't that drastic. Through my car's speakers I noticed an even bigger difference.

These are just my thoughts. Again, it could all be mental, but I'm pretty positive it's not lol.
post #37 of 159
Thread Starter 
Hi everyone, the diyLOD v2 portion has been updated, see post #2!

Again, I wanna thanks 14124all for confirming the decoupling circuit.
post #38 of 159
All we have to wait now are the reviews! I am interested to see how Sansa's AMS DAC compares to iMOD.
post #39 of 159
hi ClieOS, if this LOD sounds more neutral, could it help with my pk1 sibilance?
post #40 of 159
Thread Starter 
Believing requires action.

- James E. Faust
post #41 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by prone2phone View Post
hi ClieOS, if this LOD sounds more neutral, could it help with my pk1 sibilance?
How do you know the sibilance isn't on your recording?

USG
post #42 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by TopQuark View Post
All we have to wait now are the reviews! I am interested to see how Sansa's AMS DAC compares to iMOD.
Follwing by the Degradation-Of-Sound-As-Times-Goes-By law, the Wolfson DAC probablly sounds better. Otherwise Apple would still implement them in iPods.
I don't think peeps are going to compare the iMod to the Fuze/Clip. Either because the iMod is too awesome or they fear the outcome :P
post #43 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peyotero View Post
Follwing by the Degradation-Of-Sound-As-Times-Goes-By law, the Wolfson DAC probablly sounds better. Otherwise Apple would still implement them in iPods.
I don't think peeps are going to compare the iMod to the Fuze/Clip. Either because the iMod is too awesome or they fear the outcome :P
I think it is the latter.
post #44 of 159
Hey Clios thanks for the faq's I just finished a Ver1 and I'm gonna place an order for the caps and resistors to work on ver2. Works great. Do you know if you still have to put the volume to about 40% to run it at Line out Level for ver2? Or is that just a Ver1 glitch.
post #45 of 159
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdupiano View Post
Hey Clios thanks for the faq's I just finished a Ver1 and I'm gonna place an order for the caps and resistors to work on ver2. Works great. Do you know if you still have to put the volume to about 40% to run it at Line out Level for ver2? Or is that just a Ver1 glitch.
No, those are old firmware issue. If you have the latest firmware, volume will be disabled once the LO mode is engaged (as you plugged the dock in) and LO will output at a fixed voltage. Once the dock is removed, the previous volume setting will be restored. So you should update to the latest firmware ASAP.

Also, you should experiment with the resistors first. I don't find them to be necessary for the decoupling, and it is possible they will worsen stereo crosstalk.

Check under your Fuze system setting to find out what hardware revision your Fuze is (indicated by the first two digit of the firmware). The latest firmware version are:
Fuze rev.1 - firmware 01.01.22
Fuze rev.2 - firmware 02.01.17
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