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post #106 of 159
Thread Starter 
Beside serving as shunt, those resistors also play a role in impedance matching too. If you are lazy, just use the 100K value, or else you can calculate the required value based on the caps value + amp impedance.

Impedance (R) in this case should be 1/R = 1/amp impedance + 1/bypass resistor

Than the corner freq. is f = 1/(2*pi*C*R), where C is capacitance, and R is the input impedance of the amplifier (which is the combined impedance from above).

The goal is to keep f as small as possible, hopefully 10x smaller than the minimum freq. (which is 20Hz, as our hearing limit dictated) in order to minimize distortion. The point is, you want to adjust C and R to make sure f will be 2Hz or less, the lower the better. You also want to take into the account of the fact that amp impedance changes with amp volume, so you want to use the minimum input impedance of the amp to do the calculation.

I have tried Nichicon VP series with very good result, though it is not made fro audio purpose. Nichicon ES series will be my choice since it is very transparent and still in production. Blackgate is probably very overkill since one of them can cost almost 2X more than the connector. If you don't mind the shape, you can try film caps like Wima with smaller capacitance but you must bypass it with a very high value resistor (like 100K or more). You can read this thread about where to find good caps.

The part number fro Ridax connector is SD_B. Sandisk/Creative dock connector plug ultra thin/black snap or SD_W. Sandisk/Creative dock connector plug ultra thin/white snap. The SD_U series is only good for v1 (capless). I have link on the first post.
post #107 of 159
In case anyone is wondering...you should use v2 if you are going into a Mini^3.

I found this out when trying to drive my HD650s with my Mini^3. Sound cuts out at about %50 gain. Problem goes away when using the HO. I'm probably just going to put my caps in the middle of the cable somewhere and shrink 'em on there rather than open up the connector again. I don't want to try and scrape off the hot glue.

Thanks very much for sharing this info ClieOS. I notice a positive difference in SQ with the LOD.
post #108 of 159
Thread Starter 
Yeah, IIRC mini^3 doesn't have coupling caps build in (well, most portable these days don't have one anyway). If any of you isn't sure about which version to use, I will recommend v2, just to be on the safe side.
post #109 of 159
Great
How much would a V2 run if I bought it from a fellow head-fi'er? There was one on ebay, but it was like $43...
post #110 of 159
I figured I'd post this up


Its a very VERY tight fit, but I figure I'd post pics before I cover it in glue and finish up the lod, this one took quite a bit of time.
post #111 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdupiano View Post
I figured I'd post this up


Its a very VERY tight fit, but I figure I'd post pics before I cover it in glue and finish up the lod, this one took quite a bit of time.
That's some nice spacial arrangement, pdupiano. Well done.
post #112 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdupiano View Post
I figured I'd post this up
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/o.../Fuze_V2-1.jpg

Its a very VERY tight fit, but I figure I'd post pics before I cover it in glue and finish up the lod, this one took quite a bit of time.
Nicely done! I belive you'll able to find heatshrink of that size (I've seen pretty huge ones) to make it look more finished.
post #113 of 159
Thread Starter 
Sweet LOD there, pdupiano. I wonder, did you mix and match the connector plug with iPod connector housing to get extra space?
post #114 of 159
took out all the extra pins. If you do that you're left with the ground/left/right pins on one side and you can get an exact fit for the caps on the other side. Then you just have to get two small resistors and fit them underneath the ground. It was a pain but its definitely worth it, I'll take pics of the whole thing when I'm done.
post #115 of 159
Pics:
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/o...Fuze_LOD02.jpg
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/o...Fuze_Lod01.jpg
http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/o...Fuze_Lod03.jpg

I didn't wanna embed them since they're too big but it turned out nice and clean
post #116 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdupiano View Post
took out all the extra pins. If you do that you're left with the ground/left/right pins on one side and you can get an exact fit for the caps on the other side. Then you just have to get two small resistors and fit them underneath the ground. It was a pain but its definitely worth it, I'll take pics of the whole thing when I'm done.
Looks great. What Sansa connector did you use, it doesn't look like the stock or Ridax connector?
post #117 of 159
I just used a ridax fuze connector with a large ipod connector, and glue it in
post #118 of 159
Thread Starter 
Yep, there simply not enough space inside if you are using the original connector housing.
post #119 of 159
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdupiano View Post
I figured I'd post this up


Its a very VERY tight fit, but I figure I'd post pics before I cover it in glue and finish up the lod, this one took quite a bit of time.
I wanna see the finished product. Post up pics when your done.
post #120 of 159
its up look above
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