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The German Maestro GMP 8.35 D Monitor in the studio... serious about audio, INDEED!! - Page 34

post #496 of 794
10/3/12 at 4:41pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marleybob217 View Post

I really want to do a recable on the gmp 8.35D. The coiled comes in handy when playing the drums, but I use them 99% of the time when commuting and during work. Especially during the commute, when I'm running from bus to train the coiled cable is a pain in the ***.

 

So I opened up the headphone to see how hard a recable would be, and I took photo's so I could share it with you guys, the internet! :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Especially the foam in the earcup really surprised me, most headphone companies don't do this, for instance the beyerdynamic DT770 doesn't (It has bad resonance issues, and a really bloated bass). So good job german maestro!

 

The cables look pretty neat and tidy, so recabling it should be do-able!

 

This explains a lot, lol...most of the hps companies must use the inside foam (Ultrasone for example). basshead.gif

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post #497 of 794
10/3/12 at 4:42pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marleybob217 View Post

I really want to do a recable on the gmp 8.35D. The coiled comes in handy when playing the drums, but I use them 99% of the time when commuting and during work. Especially during the commute, when I'm running from bus to train the coiled cable is a pain in the ***.

 

So I opened up the headphone to see how hard a recable would be, and I took photo's so I could share it with you guys, the internet! :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Especially the foam in the earcup really surprised me, most headphone companies don't do this, for instance the beyerdynamic DT770 doesn't (It has bad resonance issues, and a really bloated bass). So good job german maestro!

 

The cables look pretty neat and tidy, so recabling it should be do-able!

 

This explains a lot, lol...most of the hps companies must use the inside foam (Ultrasone for example). basshead.gif BTW, great photos!

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post #498 of 794
10/4/12 at 12:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkl10 View Post

Thanks for those pics Marleybob!

I always wondered how the interior of the cups and the drivers of the 8.35d would look like.

 

How's the driver support fixed to the cups?

I don't see any screws nor locking system... is it just glued or sord of fitted tightly into a slot in the cups?

And what's the diameter of those drivers? they look identical to the GMP 4x0 series but it probably doesn't mean much...

 

It would be interesting to see, if you have the oportunity, a picture with a clear view of the raw interior of the cups without any foam or acoustical dampener (if there is anything besides that foam, of course).

 

Good luck to your recabling.

 

Indeed, there aren't any screws to lock the driver. The cup is made from (slightly) bendy rubber, so the drivers click firmly and securely in place.

The process of removing the driver from the cup reminded me a lot of removing the outer tire from my bicycle wheel!

 

And I can take out the foam, but it's nothing special underneath. I can take a photo when I replace the cable.

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post #499 of 794
10/4/12 at 1:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by roma101 View Post

My pair is recabled and it's a blessing on the commute! I was not the the one who recabled them though so I can't give you any input on that aspect, but I can confirm that it is do-able indeed and makes a big difference portability-wise.


Ah cool, what kind of cable did you use? We have a cable shop in my town which I intend to visit after work.

 

I would really like a sort of woven cable, protected with teflon, or something that makes it a bit stiffer and less prone to microphonics.

 

Also help me out, what should I do:

1. Female mini-jack in the cup -> detachable mini-jack cable.

Or

2. Attach the cable directly to the speaker.

 

If I go for option 1 I need to get a female mini-jack plug that holds the male plug really really tight, otherwise it will just fall out constantly.

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post #500 of 794
10/4/12 at 3:35am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marleybob217 View Post


Ah cool, what kind of cable did you use? We have a cable shop in my town which I intend to visit after work.

 

I would really like a sort of woven cable, protected with teflon, or something that makes it a bit stiffer and less prone to microphonics.

 

Also help me out, what should I do:

1. Female mini-jack in the cup -> detachable mini-jack cable.

Or

2. Attach the cable directly to the speaker.

 

If I go for option 1 I need to get a female mini-jack plug that holds the male plug really really tight, otherwise it will just fall out constantly.

 

 

Looks from your photos that you'll need a 4 conductor cables like the Mogami W2534 or the W2893. I've use the W2893, Here is more info: http://www.head-fi.org/t/378255/akg-k702-build-your-own-cable W2893-01.JPG

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post #501 of 794
10/4/12 at 4:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acix View Post

 

 

Looks from your photos that you'll need a 4 conductor cables like the Mogami W2534 or the W2893. I've use the W2893, Here is more info: http://www.head-fi.org/t/378255/akg-k702-build-your-own-cable W2893-01.JPG

 

Why do I need 4 conductors? I just see three wires going in the main cable: red, brown and yellow. Or am I missing something crucial?

 

I don't want to mess with the wires between the drivers, I just want to change the TRS. So that's tip, ring and sleeve if I'm not mistaken.

 

EDIT: In your diy cable thread I saw that you used 2 conductors per channel, why is that? is there any advantage this way?


Edited by Marleybob217 - 10/4/12 at 5:05am
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post #502 of 794
10/4/12 at 6:49am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marleybob217 View Post

 

Why do I need 4 conductors? I just see three wires going in the main cable: red, brown and yellow. Or am I missing something crucial?

 

I don't want to mess with the wires between the drivers, I just want to change the TRS. So that's tip, ring and sleeve if I'm not mistaken.

 

EDIT: In your diy cable thread I saw that you used 2 conductors per channel, why is that? is there any advantage this way?

 

Yes, you're right...I just zoom in and saw 3 wires, but in this case how is the second driver is connected ? About the 2 conductors per channel, I'm not sure if this do the trick but it sounds better compare to the original K-702 cable.

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post #503 of 794
10/4/12 at 9:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marleybob217 View Post


Ah cool, what kind of cable did you use? We have a cable shop in my town which I intend to visit after work.

 

I would really like a sort of woven cable, protected with teflon, or something that makes it a bit stiffer and less prone to microphonics.

 

Also help me out, what should I do:

1. Female mini-jack in the cup -> detachable mini-jack cable.

Or

2. Attach the cable directly to the speaker.

 

If I go for option 1 I need to get a female mini-jack plug that holds the male plug really really tight, otherwise it will just fall out constantly.


The one on mine is a red Monster cable. Seems pretty durable and is attached directly to the speaker. The person who sold these to me also had them recabled differently before that, with a XLR plug I believe that made them detachable. However the one I have on there now is not detachable.

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post #504 of 794
10/5/12 at 2:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by roma101 View Post


The one on mine is a red Monster cable. Seems pretty durable and is attached directly to the speaker. The person who sold these to me also had them recabled differently before that, with a XLR plug I believe that made them detachable. However the one I have on there now is not detachable.


Hmm, I'll look out for those Monster cables. But I'm way to afraid to solder it directly to the speaker, the chance of me melting the speaker is just too high.

And I'm not sure of the advantages of a detachable cable, I mean you don't want to change the cable after you've just put a brand new, and really sturdy cable on it. And if you want a longer cable just get an adapter.

 

So I think I'll just solder the cable directly to the speaker, or well directly to the wires that are attached to the speaker!

 

But for now I'm practicing my recabling and soldering skills on older headphones.

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post #505 of 794
10/5/12 at 4:44am
I'm interested in ordering the 300 ohm version of these tonight. Has anyone compared the two?
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post #506 of 794
10/5/12 at 5:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by machoboy View Post

I'm interested in ordering the 300 ohm version of these tonight. Has anyone compared the two?


Yeah, there's one guy here somewhere that did that.

 

The 300 ohm version was a bit less exciting, the 8.35D had more prat and 'life'  in it if I remember well.

Why are you considering buying the 300 ohm version if I may ask?

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post #507 of 794
10/5/12 at 6:47am

First, because I often like to use my headphones with higher impedance devices like my old integrated amps or studio/recording gear, then second because It's a little cheaper and the ear pads look more comfortable. I don't think I would use headphones like this for anything portable.

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post #508 of 794
10/5/12 at 7:20am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by machoboy View Post

First, because I often like to use my headphones with higher impedance devices like my old integrated amps or studio/recording gear, then second because It's a little cheaper and the ear pads look more comfortable. I don't think I would use headphones like this for anything portable.

 

Studio/recording gear do not provide enough power to amp 600 ohm hps. In my experience pro studio gear struggle to amp even the K-702 62 ohm, but this you probably already know...and if not, you'll know in the moment you'll plug the 702 into the SPL amp's.

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post #509 of 794
10/5/12 at 11:59am

His integrated amp will do fine though. My GMP8.300 D does fine on an old Denon amp.

BTW: the stock ear pads are rather small, so if you have big ears, they won't fit in.

 

Here's the link to the post were the two are compared:

http://www.head-fi.org/t/406658/the-german-maestro-gmp-8-35-d-monitor-in-the-studio-serious-about-audio-indeed/330#post_7934107

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post #510 of 794
10/5/12 at 12:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiemen View Post

His integrated amp will do fine though. My GMP8.300 D does fine on an old Denon amp.

BTW: the stock ear pads are rather small, so if you have big ears, they won't fit in.

 

Here's the link to the post were the two are compared:

http://www.head-fi.org/t/406658/the-german-maestro-gmp-8-35-d-monitor-in-the-studio-serious-about-audio-indeed/330#post_7934107

Very informative, thanks! Do you have the gmp 8.35D with the oval ear pads? And you should try to put a thin piece of paper in front of the driver (if you haven't already). This really helps with the sibilance.

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