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A Super-Simple 6DJ8 Headphone Amp - Page 10

post #136 of 490
Great news, DKJones96.
post #137 of 490
Thread Starter 
If anyone is or was wondering, I used generic 1/4W resistors for R101/R201, rather than the 1W ones theoretically specified, and have yet to experience any issues after a dozen or so hours of use; they don't even get warm, so I'd guess the power rating there is probably a non-issue...
post #138 of 490
My PCB arrived today, now I only miss the fets and I'm set.
post #139 of 490
The largest amount of power moving through the resistors is at 104-105/204-205 and from my calculations even 1/4 watt resistors would work there in stock form and my amp running 600mA should be okay with them too.
post #140 of 490
DK, I noticed from the photo you posted that you are using 2.2uf rubycon caps as the couplers on your board. My pre-built one came with .1uf caps there and that's what the included schematic (which I assume is identical to the copy that comes with the bare boards) shows. So was the change on yours intentional or are you just employing what you had readily available? I am considering ugrading the rather basic looking caps on the pre-built board with Auris.
post #141 of 490
It was intentional. I like them quite a bit and the only other caps I've heard that I'd run are some Aerovox film caps I've got here that are too big and some polystyrene caps that weren't going to fit right either. The Rubycons fit perfectly and looked right at home so I put those on.
post #142 of 490
I've had my amp mounted in a Radio Shack "tub" enclosure for a few days. Not sure if the one in the link is the size I have, but it looks like the one in the link. Project Enclosure (6x4x2") - RadioShack.com

Finally, I decided to "splurge" and get an enclosure from the eBay seller Fan_Computer (see link at the bottom). I just received the enclosure, these guys are quick - I bought it on Friday and got it on Monday. It's a very nice piece, the two parts of the shell are very solid. The end caps are metal and decent, except slightly skinny compared to the rest of it.

The one thing that bothers me is that the PCB is a little too skinny to sit in there securely, I can dislodge the PCB by just removing the tube. Any tips on how to secure the PCB better in the channel? I thought of putting in some screws to hold the PCB down but that seems like an extreme measure. My brain hurts. Please help.

Aluminum Project Box Enclousure Case Electronic DIY_Mid - eBay (item 250331728407 end time Mar-24-09 18:55:14 PDT)
post #143 of 490
I just got the FETs from Kansei (thanks *a lot*!), so I guess I have everything I need to build this amp, probably this weekend.
post #144 of 490
Thread Starter 
Kansei: You could try essentially shimming the board with paper, or electrical tape, or something along those lines, to make it a more secure fit in the groove. If all else fails, you could go for a couple drops of contact cement (or even hot glue), which should be enough to hold it in place while it's being tinkered with, but still easily removed if/when you want to. It may lack a certain something, both technologically and aesthetically, but nobody's going to see it or know, so who cares?
post #145 of 490
Thanks for the suggestions, Nemo. I thought about the hot glue, even gluing some flat pieces of metal above the PCB groove to help keep the PCB from moving.

I just have to get over my casework anxiety when it comes to drilling holes and doing things like this. Practice, I suppose.
post #146 of 490
Quote:
Originally Posted by ludoo View Post
I just got the FETs from Kansei (thanks *a lot*!), so I guess I have everything I need to build this amp, probably this weekend.
10 days to ship from Joisey to Italy, not bad for first class mail.
post #147 of 490
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kansei View Post
I just have to get over my casework anxiety when it comes to drilling holes and doing things like this. Practice, I suppose.
Practice, and luck. (What was it Yogi Berra once said? The more I practice, the luckier I get...) Also, always do the front panel first. Nobody really cares what the back looks like, so if you really screw the first one up, you get a second shot with the other panel. (With tube amps, you can always claim any "extra" holes in the back are for "ventilation"...)
post #148 of 490
Quote:
Originally Posted by kansei View Post
10 days to ship from Joisey to Italy, not bad for first class mail.
Yes, really quick!
post #149 of 490
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemo de Monet View Post
Practice, and luck. (What was it Yogi Berra once said? The more I practice, the luckier I get...) Also, always do the front panel first. Nobody really cares what the back looks like, so if you really screw the first one up, you get a second shot with the other panel. (With tube amps, you can always claim any "extra" holes in the back are for "ventilation"...)
I put 3 tiny pieces of electrical tape on one side of the PCB, this is holding it in place nicely. Who would have thunk it?

I'm going to declare my drilling last night a success. I got everything drilled out nicely except for the top. The top has a small hole in it but I did not want to push my luck with the sketchy drill bits I currently own. I'm buying a stepped bit this weekend and asking my neighbor to borrow his drill press so I can finish the top.

My new "technique" consists of putting masking tape over the piece I'm about to drill, then drawing on it to find the right spot for drilling. Right afterwards, I stare at the piece with my OptiVisor for 5 minutes from all angles to make sure the holes will be in the right place. I lay out the volume knob and any other bits in the proposed area to see if the layout makes sense. I use a center-punch to set the holes so my drill doesn't "walk", and always drill a small pilot hole to get started. For aluminum you can use a knife to deburr the holes.
post #150 of 490
Quote:
Originally Posted by kansei View Post
I'm going to declare my drilling last night a success.
Pics!
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