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A Very Compact Hybrid Amp - Page 32

post #466 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by nux View Post
Just wondering if one of these 220uH inductors might be a good Mouser available one:
RLB9012-221KL
18R224C

First one datasheet shows max current as 1Amp (not 1mA as shown on the mouser page..) Lead spacing looks about right compared to the BoM Digikey one. Second one is slightly wider but has a lower DC resistance.

Second one looks like it would work...first one has too high DCR from the one mentioned in the BOM
post #467 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by nux View Post
Just wondering if one of these 220uH inductors might be a good Mouser available one:
RLB9012-221KL
18R224C
sachu is on target... If you look closely at this (click through 2X), my 2nd cth, think you see the 2nd coil you listed:



It's working fine for me BUT it was a heck of jam, leads didn't line well, 1N5820 was tricky to fit next to it, toroid is better/preferred, etc, etc. I only used it because it was on hand, I had the LM2595 & I could sufficiently test (scope) that it works. If one took the chance on using such a coil, they'd want to sub 1N5818 for 1N5820 to ease the fit.

You need to source the LM2595 anyway & that source might have the proper toroid 220uH 0.8A or higher (I linked to an Aussie source back in this thread).

Note: Clearly any complications from deviations from the published BoM (or parts incl w/kits) fall on the builders hands Be very sure of what you are doing.
post #468 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by keyid View Post
ill try one or pair (however it comes) 6N1P-EV, heater uses 6.3v?
Yes, the heater is 6.3Volts



I am trying to swing for a few 6N23P tubes along with the 6N1P..
That way 10 of each tube type would mean we all get one 6N1P-EV and one 6N23P tube (but the chances that one or both of the fail to work becomes greater).
This way we all get to try out and roll more tubes on this wonderful amp

Not trying to complicate anything..for now the original group buy continues.
post #469 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by cfcubed View Post
sachu is on target... If you look closely at this (click through 2X), my 2nd cth, think you see the 2nd coil you listed:

Note: Clearly any complications from deviations from the published BoM (or parts incl w/kits) fall on the builders hands Be very sure of what you are doing.
Ah excellent! I might buy both and see how the smaller one goes. It should fit easier but will generate a bit more heat. I will report back when I get some PCB's and parts!
And I already have a few LM2595's so don't need to source them, hence trying to get everything from Mouser.
post #470 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by nux View Post
Ah excellent! I might buy both and see how the smaller one goes. It should fit easier but will generate a bit more heat. I will report back when I get some PCB's and parts!
And I already have a few LM2595's so don't need to source them, hence trying to get everything from Mouser.
yeah, i think I will give it a try too...I have almost a half dozen of the LM2595s...am all set..now need to decide whether to order one board or two..
post #471 of 2213
I think its funny you guys have LM2595s just laying around... I thought it was a bit of an obscure part.

WRT heater parts - The values, ratings & other characteristics (DCR, Q, impedance) are very important to its functioning properly, as noted in its parts list. SMPSs are picky in their parts & not a good place to go subbing. BTW feedback resistor values are very important too. Really look spec sheets over & the most support you may get is a "Good luck"
post #472 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by cfcubed View Post
I think its funny you guys have LM2595s just laying around... I thought it was a bit of an obscure part.

WRT heater parts - The values, ratings & other characteristics (DCR, Q, impedance) are very important to its functioning properly, as noted in its parts list. SMPSs are picky in their parts & not a good place to go subbing. BTW feedback resistor values are very important too. Really look spec sheets over & the most support you may get is a "Good luck"
hahah...what's DIY without smoking a few capacitors , busting a few diodes and transistors to set you off tugging at the board removing the damamged parts, ordering extra supplies...yeah..lots of fun.
post #473 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by sachu View Post
Yes, the heater is 6.3Volts
I am trying to swing for a few 6N23P tubes along with the 6N1P..
That way 10 of each tube type would mean we all get one 6N1P-EV and one 6N23P tube (but the chances that one or both of the fail to work becomes greater).
.

Fooo - I have 6N1ps, and I can't rememeber if I tried them in the CTH - I'm pretty sure I did, and they worked.

I got a little carried away swapping tubes when i fired the amp up, then I got stuck on the 12BH7
post #474 of 2213
Ive been listening to russian 6n1p's for the last 2 days. They sound decent, nice and flat. But i must admit, I like the colouration of a tube, thats what makes it a tube amp to me!
post #475 of 2213
What's the markup on the kit vs. buying parts separate?
post #476 of 2213
Yep, 6N1P-EV works well in the CTH and sounds great. Not in the same league as the 12BH7 or the better 6DJ8's, but I prefer it to most of the 12AU7 tubes I have tried so far. Also some tubes seem to match better with certain headphones than others, so with all the tubes that can be rolled in and all the headphones most people here have there is endless fun to be had with this Amp.

IIRC the EV suffix means heavy duty, longer life & military spec although different guides give different definitions and there are conflicting opinions as to which sound better. Have ordered some regular 6N1P's to see how they compare. Just be aware that shipping from Russia or Eastern European countrys can be very very slow.
post #477 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by Netdewt View Post
What's the markup on the kit vs. buying parts separate?
My build came to $200+ this is without tubes or the board cost and couple other minor items. Couple things that mouser and digikey doesnt have is the power adapter (plug n play) and tube socket good luck finding them in one place. But I did order some good stuff.

This figure has risen because of upgrades couple more tubes, caps, and resistors.
post #478 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by Netdewt View Post
What's the markup on the kit vs. buying parts separate?
TimJo may have answered this best here... I'd be surprised if wiatrob made minimum wage working for you in making these kits & assoc cornucopia of options available.
Hope he ends up making at least enough for a Happy Meal per kit

Oh & you can always download the BoM from the official CTH site & spend time pricing things out to your door...
post #479 of 2213
I've just about finished putting together a Mouser order (over US$400 currently!) and just have a few final questions for the prototypers.

Which 1/4" jacks are recommended from Mouser? And if using them, is the larger case the best option?

And are there any other recommended tweaks or different components that I should get to try out? Different caps/knobs etc? Really want to make sure I get everything I need in one go.

Cheers.
post #480 of 2213
Thread Starter 
nux, I changed the BoM recently because there was an error. The correct version now is 2015a. The only significant change is R13 which should be 1k5 (not the 1k8 that was in the previous BoM). We also increased R18 to 100R instead of 56R because the prototype group seems to like this value a little better. But this is builder choice.
Dr. Cavalli gained notoriety with his first DIY amplifier projects. His success has blossomed into Cavalli Audio, a world leader in amplifier design.
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