Effect of adhesive heatshrink on sound

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I find that it has a stickier more rubbery sound, but the details are more tightly held together.

I use clear heatshrink; I find it colors the sound less.

^I thought clear heatshrink would make it more "transparent"

it constricts the sound, but makes it sound more transparent, and less colored. the sound also becomes more molassus-like, and stickier.

Let the heat shrink burn-in for 200 h+ and then write a review!

I use virgin silk-impregnated heatshrink, woven by Tibetan monks.

After 8,000 hours of burn-in, my karma improves.

Mine's cryo'ed.

I look forward to the inevitable DIY tutorial on how to cryo and burn-in your clear adhesive heatshrink!

I'm pretty sure extensive listening tests will also prove it's directional too... you must slide the tubing on in the direction of the audio signal...

Damn, I pretty much have to delete my first post now...

I think we've all had too much eggnog this weekend, but the comments are in good (self-deprecating) humor. We're all in the same boat really.

The dielectric is usually a concern when factoring in the capacitance of a cable. This requires two conductors carrying different voltages and a high impedance signal at a close proximity.

If you're air-wiring a wire, this is usually not a concern...

I also remember reading a article that interviewed several well-known cable manufacturers about cable burn-in, and many of them noted that the wire dielectrics, being physical not only absorbs energy, but re-radiates it.
They also referred to the concept of piezoelectricity.

Although I personally don't believe cables make a difference in audio, I have built several cables anyways for the sake of having nice cables, and when I do, I apply the best of my knowledge into building an ideal cable as long as the concept/theory does not sacrifice practicality and cost.

The impedance after a pot is quite high, adhesive heatshrink is pretty thick and the pot pins are pretty close together. Regardless, a inch or so definitely won't matter but then again, solder joints are pretty strong and the mechanical strength inside a case is just as unimportant as the theoretical increase in capacitance due to the heatshrink.
I wouldn't bother worrying about it.. use whatever you have. It looks cleaner when the pins are heatshrinked over imo.

I tried that but after a few cycles of swapping + and -, my arms got tired! alternating current: DAMN YOU!!

I could not tell the difference - I must need a better DAC or preamp, then.