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The Audio-gd Compass (Was: Designing an alternative to the Zero DAC/amp) - Page 6

post #76 of 7724
12/19/08 at 7:56pm
Yep, just like the one you can see in the Stello DA100 .
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post #77 of 7724
12/20/08 at 8:04am
Jesus he's got new pictures of the front and back already with the selector knob we talked about. That is quick
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post #78 of 7724
12/20/08 at 9:49am
He sure is working fast.
Not that I am complaining.
Itching to get my hands on one when it is ready to rock.
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post #79 of 7724
12/20/08 at 2:05pm
If they have these ready and shipping to the UK by the time I go to Uni, we'll be golden.
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post #80 of 7724
12/21/08 at 2:35pm
Hi everyone,
just noticed this interesting project... looks very tempting!
If I'm right, audio gd has finished the first prototype pcbs (schematics and pcbs are looking more than fine) and I'm curious about one thing...

How much gain will the headamp have? It'd be unfortunate, if you can't use it with efficient headphone like ATs or similar.

Nevertheless it looks neat! If it's <=250 USD and is "dead silent" it'll become a true 'no brainer'.

best regards,
bearmann
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post #81 of 7724
12/21/08 at 4:55pm
Will this DAC take 24/96 USB input?
I see that it has a PCM2707 chipset.
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post #82 of 7724
12/21/08 at 5:02pm
Well, there seems to be some updates, additional circuit diagrams.. for those interested..
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post #83 of 7724
12/21/08 at 5:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by punk_guy182 View Post
Will this DAC take 24/96 USB input?
I see that it has a PCM2707 chipset.
You have answered yourself, the PCM2707 cannot go above 16/48!!!

Just look at the specs.: Audio Converters and CODECs - Digital to Analog (DACs) - PCM2707 - TI.com
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post #84 of 7724
12/21/08 at 9:03pm
Well I'm very interested in this project too. Looks great, I'm curious to see how it winds up, what the final product looks like and how much it would cost me to get one. I could use a stationary/desktop unit with a USB DAC and competent headphone amp (need to read up on the output a bit more).
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post #85 of 7724
12/21/08 at 10:41pm
Would it cost a lot to have USB 2.0 instead of 1.1? I'm not sure if it's better, just heard random opinions that it might be superior in jitter/latency. Also, how hard would it be to get ASIO to work on this if we were to use it for the computer? Anyone want to write drivers for us heh heh.
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post #86 of 7724
12/21/08 at 11:10pm
Correct me if i'm wrong but the PCM2707 in this build is only used as a USB to I2S converter of sorts which is then fed to the AD1852.
All D/A conversion is managed by the AD1852.

And the PCM2707 is recognised by windows (and osx?) without the need of extra drivers.
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post #87 of 7724
12/22/08 at 1:02am
Thread Starter 
Hmm, how critical is 24/96 support? I'll ask Kingwa about it.
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post #88 of 7724
12/22/08 at 1:39am
Personally, not hugely. But I suspect many others will want it. I'm more interested that the headphone amp has sufficient juice and voltage to drive all sorts of headphones.
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post #89 of 7724
12/22/08 at 2:50am
since this is targeted for more beginners, 24/96 support probably isn't a big priority (unless it doesn't add much to the cost). If it adds a significant amount to the cost it's probably better to leave it out.
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post #90 of 7724
12/22/08 at 3:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxbaker View Post
since this is targeted for more beginners, 24/96 support probably isn't a big priority (unless it doesn't add much to the cost). If it adds a significant amount to the cost it's probably better to leave it out.
I'm no expert in electronics but doesn't that just come down to the DAC chip selected?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hottuna_ View Post
Correct me if i'm wrong but the PCM2707 in this build is only used as a USB to I2S converter of sorts which is then fed to the AD1852.
All D/A conversion is managed by the AD1852.

And the PCM2707 is recognised by windows (and osx?) without the need of extra drivers.
Agreed I think the PCM2707 is there purely to provide USB input. Maybe it would be cheaper to not have it but as an optional addon in the form of a breakout box?

EDIT: Also um imo the lineout/bypass 3.5mm jack should be at the back of the unit for aesthetics
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