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Review: Woo Audio WA6 vs. WA6SE (stock units) - Page 30

post #436 of 508
Thanks. I just ordered a pair of RCA 6fd7's.
I'm currently enjoying both 6DE7 and 6EW7 pretty much equally. Will see how 6fd7 compares. Man, I love the 6SE, but it's tough being sleep deprived from extended late night listenings...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradofan2 View Post
The increased gain is not really an issue.

It might have a bit of noise at very high POT levels (say 1 O'clock and above) with no signal, but nothing noticeable at normal POT levels of about 9--10 O'clock (which is loud).

The 6FD7 tubes (I've got the RCAs) are very much like the Raytheon 6EW7 tubes - lots of resolution, detail, claity, but with a very dynamic, punchy sound, similar to the 6DE7 tubes.

I think you'd be very pleased with them, if you get them.
post #437 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by takezo View Post
then i'd highly suggest you get the v-caps that jack offers, or the mundorf
silver and gold in oil with same specs. jamato8 has the latter and he indicated
that they are outstanding in the wa6. they're relatively expensive for an input
coupling cap, but should provide you with the maximum prat and tonality you
strive for in a tube amp. you can scratch the dact to make up the difference.

i'm sure you will, but asking jack for his opinions based on your needs is the
way to go too. good luck!
Hi takezo, it's interesting and sounds really attractive by adding a good caps to make some improvement. For the 6SE, if, adding v-caps or mundorf, as bypass an input coupling cap, it should be bypass the 220uf/16v or the 47uf/350v in the output unit. Thanks for your advise.
Cheers, Danny
post #438 of 508
hi danny, the wa6SE is direct coupled and does not make use of the input coupling caps
like v-cap or mundorf. the direct coupled gives the better bass extension and tautness, imo.
you can always upgrade the resistor used in the direct coupling stage with high quality
carbon types, as well as the bypass caps and bypass resistors...
post #439 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by takezo View Post
hi danny, the wa6SE is direct coupled and does not make use of the input coupling caps
like v-cap or mundorf. the direct coupled gives the better bass extension and tautness, imo.
you can always upgrade the resistor used in the direct coupling stage with high quality
carbon types, as well as the bypass caps and bypass resistors...
Thanks takezo, wow, really fast reply and helpful. I've replaced all resistors into Kiwame also 2 of the 220uf/16v by BG FK in same value in the output unit. Sounds improve in clarity, more dynamic and punchy after 50+ hrs of burn in. Some more caps of BG on my order of 22uf/ 350v, Nichicon 470uf/ 100v will be my next step. Would you suggest any other choice than that?
post #440 of 508
Dude, post some pics!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dannie01 View Post
Thanks takezo, wow, really fast reply and helpful. I've replaced all resistors into Kiwame also 2 of the 220uf/16v by BG FK in same value in the output unit. Sounds improve in clarity, more dynamic and punchy after 50+ hrs of burn in. Some more caps of BG on my order of 22uf/ 350v, Nichicon 470uf/ 100v will be my next step. Would you suggest any other choice than that?
post #441 of 508
Sure, but some days later when I got my DC back that borrowed by my friend.
post #442 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannie01 View Post
Thanks takezo, wow, really fast reply and helpful. I've replaced all resistors into Kiwame also 2 of the 220uf/16v by BG FK in same value in the output unit. Sounds improve in clarity, more dynamic and punchy after 50+ hrs of burn in. Some more caps of BG on my order of 22uf/ 350v, Nichicon 470uf/ 100v will be my next step. Would you suggest any other choice than that?
you may want to try using elna silmic II capacitors instead of the blackgate FK
types in the bypass stage... if the FK present a crisp, clear, open sound the
silmic II presents a lush, tubey sound that emphasizes the natural timbre in the
mids. of course, the blackgate N-series non-poplar are the most open with
fantastic mids... but also the most expensive of the lot.
post #443 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by takezo View Post
you may want to try using elna silmic II capacitors instead of the blackgate FK
types in the bypass stage... if the FK present a crisp, clear, open sound the
silmic II presents a lush, tubey sound that emphasizes the natural timbre in the
mids. of course, the blackgate N-series non-poplar are the most open with
fantastic mids... but also the most expensive of the lot.
Thanks takezo, as what you advised, do you mean I can have a try with some good non-polar caps in the bypass stage with 220uf/16v or similar just depends on differs SQ of caps? The elna silmic II is one of choices, then may be bypass with musiccap, auricap, V-CAP in lower value. Also, what will be resulted if I replaced by a lower value there, let say 100uf or lower?
Thanks
post #444 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannie01 View Post
Thanks takezo, as what you advised, do you mean I can have a try with some good non-polar caps in the bypass stage with 220uf/16v or similar just depends on differs SQ of caps? The elna silmic II is one of choices, may be musiccap, auricap, V-CAP or..............Also, what will be resulted if I replaced by a lower value there, let say 100uf or lower?
Thanks
yes, the cathode bypass caps and resistors are in the signal path and will influence to
a certain degree the overall tone of the sound. i would stick with the electrolytic caps
there as film caps will cost you an arm or two if you use them in 220uf values.
i'm guessing the amp is designed to sound its best at that value. i'm pretty sure
they used this formula:

Xc=1/[(2)x(Pi)x(F)x(C)]
or
C=1/[(2)x(Pi)x(F)x(Xc)]

Where:
Xc is the capacitive reactance
Pi=3.14159
F=15 Hertz
C=capacitor value.

straying from the standard value may or may not affect the SQ.
higher microfarad value may or may not allow you to dip below 15 hertz
but i don't think we can hear anything below that...
lower value may or may not shift the spectrum to the highs...
voltage wise, the cathode of the tube will probably never see anymore more
than -5 volt so doubling that at the minimum of 10v should be safe.
hope this helps and haven't confused you more. please double check with
the real experts around here as there are many.
post #445 of 508
takezo, thanks a lot for the valuable input. Emailed Jack for his upgrade parts mod and was answered to swap the BG's caps with the value he recommended is the best way for the modification.
post #446 of 508
I prefer 470uf on the cathode as the mids, to my ear, are better while retaining the highs and the bass. Battery bias is even better. For the cathode resistor I would use a good carbon. Kiwame are nice but are no more than a rebranded 20 cent carbon that happens to be very good. I also recommend using larger than required resistors as you get less drift due to heat and they just tend to sound better.
post #447 of 508
If 2 people are listening at the same time with the WA6 SE, do they have to agree on a volume? There is no way to control volume separately is there?
post #448 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by saintalfonzo View Post
If 2 people are listening at the same time with the WA6 SE, do they have to agree on a volume? There is no way to control volume separately is there?
No, you can't control the volume separately...resulting volume I guess depends on the sensitivity of each headphone.
When I listen to Denon D2000 and Senn HD650 together, D2000 is slightly louder.
post #449 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
I prefer 470uf on the cathode as the mids, to my ear, are better while retaining the highs and the bass. Battery bias is even better. For the cathode resistor I would use a good carbon. Kiwame are nice but are no more than a rebranded 20 cent carbon that happens to be very good. I also recommend using larger than required resistors as you get less drift due to heat and they just tend to sound better.
Thanks John, but do you mean you suggest to swap the 220uf/16v by 470uf/16v to get better SQ? For resistors, what do you mean "using larger than required resistors", larger the value? 1k to 2k or, please advise.
Thanks
post #450 of 508
It is my understanding that with tube amps, you need to keep the heaphone plugged in at all times, so that the amp is meeting a "load."
So what do you guys do when you want to switch headphones? Do you turn the amp off, switch headphones and then turn the amp back on, or do you let the amp go without the headphone "load" briefly?
And what exactly happens if you leave the amp on without a headphone plugged in? Has anyone here left their Woo amp on for an extended period without any ill effects? Am I being overly cautious/paranoid?
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